blind_elk

Thanks for the feedback, guys. They'll be going on the R32 GTS4 - 235/45x17s. As you can see from the panel at left, I've done the RB25 upgrade, so there is a bit more punch than your ordinary GTS4. If they're a bit sus in the wet, maybe better to spend a few more $$$ for brand-name.

These are supposed to be a "made by Bridgestone" tyre. That being the case, I would be happy to try them. Anyone used these things, and has comments (good or bad). Tx

If the induction noise is too loud, why not do something about quietening it, like enclosing it in an air box.

I'm not aware of any speed limit that changes from 100 to 60 in 1 hit. They usually slow you to 80 or 70 first before 60. Anyway, you should have been slowing down as soon as you saw the 60 sign, which should be well before you got close to it.

Waste of time - and MONEY! And it will eventually destroy the engine with all the excess fuel diluting the oil.

Why not check / ask on the Wolf website?

How do you know? Are you sure you put the fuel lines back on correctly - check by removing the return line from the pressure regulator while priming the pump.

Then you haven't heard this one:http://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensl...f-1225890936050

My L-18 engine says 2.2 kg-m. I think the RB series is similar.

There should be a couple of threaded holes that take a 6mm bolt (10mm head) that you use to push the rotor hat away from the hub. Also, try a bit of WD40 or similar around the hub centre to free up the rotor.

The cable should have a bit of slack - it makes sure the throttle fully closes when you take your foot off the pedal.

VFT! (14.5 - 15.5 kg-m)

5 metres!!!!! WTF!!!! I think you mean MILLImetres (or maybe CENTImetres). Thats what the adjusting fitting is for - to take up any slack due to cable stretch.

Theoretically, every suspension combo for a R33 is a "coilover"? If you have windy roads, you want swaybars for handling. So you can afford to run slightly softer suspension. The best is going to be Bilsteins or Koni in the shock department, but at $1000 per end puts it outside your budget. If you can, maybe some KYB shocks with a Kings low spring and upgraded swaybars would seem appropriate (although that total combo is likely to be outside your budget as well).

Might be stupid question, but how does anyone tell that you are driving on one of these SHOs? And how can they know if you are driving within the conditions of the SHO so they know whether or not to pull you over to check?Too many people keep getting caught and being charged with "driving while disqualified". SHO seems to half defeat the purpose of being punished for breaking the law. Solution would be to find someone willing to play chauffeur for the period of your disqualification. Or move closer to public transport.

It's only a problem when the rears are SMALLER than the fronts - that combo tricks the ECU into thinking that the rears are slipping.

Or you could move the fronts to the back and put the new tyres on the front.

Fitting a narrower tyre on a rim will affect the rolling diameter in 2 ways: 1 - narrower tyre has a smaller sidewall height, therefore smaller overall diameter. 2 - stretching a tyre onto a rim will further decrease the rolling diameter.

Not sure if there's a separate fuse, but, like all cars, there is a switch in the gearbox. Have you checked that it is still working?

Sent 29 June. Didn't have a surname, so just addressed to "Dennis" @ your PO box. Hasn't been sent back to me as yet (because undeliverable or whatever). The units are complete with all the plugs.

Those won't help. Those will probably make it worse. Stiffening the front end will only increase the understeer characteristics.

My R32 has a separate switch, just near the main light switch, that can turn the parkers on (presumably it's for when fog lights are fitted). R34 doesn't have a similar switch, does it?

Why are you running a "race" plug? It's probably fouling because it is way too "cold". Just use a "normal" NGK plug - you probably need to go a bit "colder" from standard in the heat range. Something like a BCPR7ES, and open the gap up a bit, say 1mm.

You don't need a swaybar for a drag application. The bar works to alter the lateral transfer of weight during cornering - it does nothing while the car is essentially moving in a straight line.

You could try Quadrant Suspension in Berwick - for Bilstein shocks valved to suit Aussie roads (Jap stuff is far too stiff for Australian conditions).