blind_elk

Have you worked out which coil is misfiring? Is it a S1 or S2 RB25? If it's a S1, then it could be a failing ignitor module.

It opens in response to pressure. You can tap the throttle as much as you like - it shouldn't open

Did you bleed the master cylinder (needs to be bled first, b4 each wheel)? Did you bleed the ABS unit (should have bleed nipples on top)?

Maybe the belt pooped itself.

What happens if drop the boost a bit - say 10psi?

Have you checked fuel pressure? If the regulator is stuffed, then you will be getting too much fuel delivered at all times. The problem with the ignition lights sounds like an unrelated problem confined to the ignition switch.

"Stock tune" doesn't necessarily suit every car. I would suggest getting it onto a dyno and tuned properly.

Maybe it was the idiot who wrote the script for the voice-over narrator.

On the Vicroads website (probably the same in other states): http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyre...8340/0/VSI8.pdf - Replacement wheels cannot be more than 25mm (1") wider than the widest wheels specified by the manufacturer for that vehicle series - Wheel / tyre combo not more than 15mm larger diameter than the largest tyre specified by the manufacturer for that vehicle series So depending on the standard rim for a GT-R, which I think is only 7", 9" is outside the Vicroads guidelines for replacement wheels.

Maybe because Nissan used the same chassis for the GTT.

Put the front bar to its softest setting. Add air to front tyres.

Because they are different blocks (the skirt, where the sump bolts to, is different), and the sumps don't just swap over.

You won't get the G70 out by simply draining the gearbox. My understanding is that the G70 (Teflon) basically bakes onto the gear surfaces to provide improved anti-friction properties.

The instruction sheet should tell you how to set the cut-in temp.

Ryan, I have a similar thing with the fuel gauge in my 32. Absolutely NFI what is causing it, but I know it eventually goes back to reading correctly (then "making fuel" again). I say just put up with it.

Don't beleive me then, maybe you will believe the manufacturer. From the Davies Craig instruction sheet - Setting the Thermal Switch:

Scott, Talk to Gerhard (NDSOC competition secretary - [email protected]) - he has a 260Z which I believe he has put the LD crank in a L28 to make 3.1l.

Can help ypu out with the complete unit (radio + cassette). They're from the hatchback.

But you said in post#5 that So what is it - on or off below thermostat temp?Clearly you have no understanding whatsoever about the principle behind the thermo fan and its use in automotive applications. Humour me and run your car for 1 day with the power to your thermo fan disconnected - let us know if you have major dramas with overheating.

Andrew - Autos have a switch in the gearbox to prevent the engine starting unless the box is in Park or Neutral. Ryan - The simple solution is to take it to a transmission mechanic and get it fixed.

I think you wil find that the ports in the L24 manifold are quite small. I'm pretty sure you would be much better off just using the L28 as is.

Frankly, if you don't want a car with AWD, then don't buy a car with AWD. Simple as that! Nissan AWD is NOT constant AWD - it is an intelligent AWD system, that runs as RWD until the computer detects a particular condition and switches to AWD mode.

Did you get the injectors cleaned b4 you installed the engine? Is the fuel pressure correct? Which ECU? Give us a bit to work with, for goodness sake.

no such animal. R33 GTS4 is NA. The RB25DET AWD comes out of a Stagea.Simplest method, buy a GT-R - unfortunately you'll just have to put up with the RB26DETT. Next easiest - buy a GTS4, drop in Stagea engine, upgrade brakes, wheels -> 5-stud

How is it "hard to start"? What are the symptoms?