blind_elk

I use some scraps of 2" thick pine - drive the car (front or rear, works for both ends) up onto the block, then you have enough clearance to get a trolley jack under. I use the cross member for the front, and the diff for the rear. Generally, ramps are too steep to allow the front bar to clear the ramps. For an oil change, jack the car, then use axle stands under the LCA, then remove the jack (because it gets in the way of the oil draining into the catch tub).

Ok, just returned from doing a trial fit of the calipers. They are a Sumitomo alloy caliper. When mounted on my 32, the bottom edge of the pad is about 8mm above the current swept area of the rotor. By my reckoning, that would mean they cover an extra 16mm of rotor, which means 296mm R32 GT-R.

And I repeat my original reply - it depends on a whole bunch of variables.

As long as you can pull the thrust bearing away from the clutch plate, it should be OK. That means that there is no pre-load on the thrust bearing and pressure plate.

There might be a hole or something that is letting light from a panel light "leak" into the oil pressure light socket.

There's no "normal" oil pressure. It will vary depending on the type of oil, the viscosity rating of the oil, how the viscosity of the oil changes under shear, how the viscosity of the oil changes with temperature.

It's the shock absorbers that are adjustable, not the springs. All the shock absorber does is control the movement of the spring, in both bump (compression) and rebound (extension). And the spring basically supports the weight of the car.

Have you got dimmable panel lights? Try changing the brightness and see if the oil light changes.

Sway bars control body roll. By controlling body roll, they control weight transfer. Controlling weight transfer controls under / over steer.As a rule of thumb, in a RWD setup, increasing the front sway bar will INCREASE the UNDERSTEER characteristics of the suspension. Increasing the rear sway bar will INCREASE the OVERSTEER characteristics. The lifting of the inside wheel in hard cornering is more dependent on where the weight is as you turn in. If the weight is forward, ie still under brakes, then you are almost assured of lifting the inside rear driving wheel. Putting too heavy a spring in the rear will begin to introduce traction problems - you can't transfer weight to get the power to the ground. Putting heavier springs in the front will induce understeer. So you might get the body roll you desire, but you will likely have massive understeer or traction problems. As with everything to do with car performance, it's all a tradeoff between competing effects. But fitting an upgraded sway bar will be the best value to enhancing the handling performance of the car.

I purchased a set of GT-R calipers some time ago, with the idea of installing them on my R32 GTS4. The calipers might be R33 calipers, but can't be sure (is there a part number stamped anywhere on the caliper?) I've just noticed that my current rotors have been chewed almost down to no slots, so I need new rotors fairly soon, and I figured it's time to do the upgrade. Has anyone done this? And what are the differences between GT-R and GTS4 / GTSt calipers in terms of where they mount relative to the hub? eg, do GT-R calipers have longer ears, or do they have different mounting points on the hub. TIA

Rear bar as well?

Get the globes replaced so they work! And the speedo sends a signal to the P/S system - if it isn't there, then the system turns itself off and you get symptoms you observe. (Would have been nice to know that earlier)

Try it with the sway bar disconnected at the link pins. If the sway bar is loaded up on one side, then it could cause what you are experiencing.Is the surface you are measuring on absolutely dead flat?

That will RAISE the ride height.I vote for a twisted chassis. Wouldn't take much of a twist to introduce a 1.5cm discrepancy over the diagonal of the chassis. I'd get the car corner weighted to work out where the problem lies.

Does the HICAS warning light (along with all the other warning lights on the panel) come on when you switch IGN to ON?

There is usually a push-button on the RH binacle (I think it was for fog lights), right beside / above the main headlamp switch. Check you haven't accidentally hit that (maybe when you went to turn headlights or rear demister ON).

Up to you, really. It will be a judgement call depending on its condition.

Have you checked the steering fluid levels?

Have you checked the fan belt tension?

Sounds like your car has a GT-R rear end. Can you get a pic of that as well?

Can you explain how they don't match up? Maybe the previous owner swapped a GT-R rear cradle into the GTSt. Can you do pics of what you have?

It won't matter which side of the radiator the fans are on (and ideally they should be mounted to PUSH air through the radiator), they are still covering the same area of radiator.And you need to make sure that the air can't go anywhere other than THROUGH the radiator - a lot of the time, the air simply flows down the front of the radiator and goes under the car.

The switch attached to the brake pedal has probably gone open-circuit

7. Pistons seizing in the calipers.

VCT is OFF until about 1500, then switches ON, then turns OFF again at around 4500. If it isn't doing the initial ON, then the tune will be all wrong for the cam timing available.