blind_elk

Have you got a pilot light to indicate when the fan is operating? Have you set the fan operation so you know when it turns on / off? The cfm rating of a thermo fan is irrelevant to keeping the engine cool at highway speeds. If a thermo is installed correctly, the only real time the fan should turn on is in stop / start traffic, or if you just let it idle for extened periods of time. If you have the thermo fan working all the time, then you are basically defeating the reason for having a thermo fan, and that is to take load off the engine (you simply transfer the load from the factory fan to the alternator). When I had a thermo (Davies Craig) I had problems keeping the engine cool - the fan would turn on at highway speeds on slight upward inclines on moderate temp (25C) days. I figured the problem was getting air to actually go through the radiator, so I put the original factory fan back on. Haven't had a problem since.

Do it "old school" - insert a plug lead between #1 coil and #1 spark plug, then measure off the lead.

I had to rebuild mine after I smashed the rings in #2. I had a 1mm o/s bore, crank / flywheel / clutch balanced, ACL bearings, custom pistons (from Aust Precision Engine Parts, Wantirna, Vic). Got a "mate's rates" assembly, all for about $6k. You need to be careful about fitting forged pistons. The pistons need to run hot, otherwise you are risking them not expanding enough to give a good seal around the rings and thus burning oil. And I'm pretty sure it has been stated in a squillion and one threads that the AWD sump does not just bolt up to the RWD block!

What timing is it running at start? The reason it is starting with some throttle is possibly die to the throttle allowing more air to enter the combustion chamber, which implies too much fuel while starting. Have you looked at any form of temperature correction in the maps (don't know about PFC, but Wolf has a seperate temp compensation map).

The manufacturers generally recommend the fan is set up as a PUSH fan, which means mounting in front of the radiator. I realise that is difficult because of all the A/C stuff and IC hanging around out there. So when you mount the fan inside the engine bay (behind the radiator), you set it up as a PULL fan. And of couse the air is hot because the fan is pulling air over a hot radiator. BTW, how are you switching the fan on when the engine gets a bit hotter?

Heavy front springs will increase understeer tendencies.

Pretty much. Make sure you jack BOTH sides, otherwise it will be near impossible to put them back in.

Yellow Pages - Fuel Injection Services

The main headlamp switch is prone to causing this sort of failure. I think it's the contacts inside the switch get dirty and don't contact properly.

Manufacturer's specifications will tell you what size rim for a particular sized tyre. According to a Toyo brochure (most of the others will be very similar), "approved" rim width for a 245/45x18 tyre is 7.5 - 9.0 . Problem will be that the 45 profile tyre will have a larger rolling diameter than your previous 35 profile tyres.

If you are doing it simply to prevent any discharge of the battery, then you really only need to disconnect 1 terminal. Once you have done that, there is no continuity between the terminals of the battery, and nothing can draw current from the battery.

Try replacing the ignitor. They develop problems with heat when they start getting a bit old.

The marks on the timing belt are irrelevant. The only marks you need to concern yourself with are the ones on the gears / pullies.

It's unlikely to be a problem of fuel quality. After all, the fuel is simply a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons that form an explosive mixture in the presence of the correct amount of air. While the fuel may go "off" with time, it does not go so "off" as to no longer form an explosive mixture in air. You probably fouled the plugs last time you started the engine. Take them out, clean them up, try again.

0w/5w/10w - doesn't really matter in this situation. I'd be upping the running viscosity to a 50 or even 60.

GTS4 rears are different to GTSt (same as GT-R), fronts are the same across the range (GT-R / GTS4 / GTSt), I believe.

That's what he was talking about. A motor turns the mirrors in and out.

The belt tensioner mechanism is on the underside of the p/s pump. It helps if you remove the IC piping to get at the bolt. And loosen off the top securing bolt to allow the pump to pivot down so you can remove / refit the belt.

Have you considered that the water pump is dieing - the impeller fins corrode away from not running proper coolant mixtures.

Or you could try Maltech in Geelong. They have ADR approved braided lines (not sure if for the 34 though). http://www.maltech.com.au Postal Address: 125 Andersons Rd, Drysdale, VIC 3222 Phone: 0418 378 939 Fax: (03) 5251 1790 Email: [email protected]

One way to test it is to swap shocks L<->R, see if the situation changes. There's still the same weight on the spring. The reason the car becomes bouncy is that the shock absorber is unable to do its job, namely to control the motion of the spring.

The hose passes under the rear seat and up over the rear parcel shelf. When I had a problem with mine, the hose had broken on the parcel shelf area.

You shouldn't use the chassis rails - they are not designed to carry any weight, and will collapse. If you are talking about axle stands, then at the front you can place them under the lower control arms, at the rear place them under the rear crossmember mounting points.

Red one appears to be the only one with any wires connected, so I'd guess the red one.

And once it is heard, it is too late! There has to be a safer way to overcome the flatspot.