blind_elk

Yes, a stiffer rear bar will reduce the understeer tendency (actually, increase the oversteer tendency). A bit less rear -ve camber will also help. More air pressure in the front tyres will reduce the understeer. More -ve camber in the front will reduce the understeer. The range from Whiteline is probably the best researched bars for Skylines.

And less sidewall to support the weight of the car.

Raise the cut-in temp of the fans. There is no point fitting thermo fans that run basically all the time. All you are doing is shifting the load on the engine from a factory fan to the alternator. The cut-in can be as high as 90 C, or even higher - the motion of the car will control the engine temps; the fan is just for those times when the engine gets a bit hotter because the car isn't moving, or is moving too slowly. As for the temp increasing at idle, are you sure the fans are running the right way - pulling air through the radiator into the engine bay (I'm assuming you have had to mount the fans on the engine side of the radiator). Ordinarily, having a raised rear of bonnet is only a problem when the car is moving - there is a high pressure region created at the base of the windscreen (that's where comes from for the heater / a/c in the cabin). When the rear of the bonnet is raised, this high pressure region feeds a high pressure into the engine bay, and that restricts air flowing through the radiator to cool the engine. (you should recall from high school physics that air moves from regions of high pressure to regions of low pressure; if the inside of the engine bay is already at a high pressure, then air from in front of the radiator won't flow towards that region)

It's not a matter of having stretched tyres. It's that the tyres are quite low profile, and the pressure is required to keep the sidewall stiff enough to support the weight of the car. Generally, the smaller the profile of the tyre, the higher the pressure required to keep the tyre in the correct shape.

Go and see Craig at Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

Gee, I wish I'd thought of that!

My guess is that the spring behind the detent ball has broken, and as such does not hold the selector rod in place. You might be able to replace the spring without removing the 'box.

It would appear that your ultimate intention is to get rid of HICAS. If that is the case, why not just fit a HICAS lock bar. I would think that would be a much simpler course of action.

In my 32, I've mounted the extinguisher on a strip af aluminium and then used the front seat bolts to mount the al strip.

As distinct from night driving in the day? Or day driving at night? A 100W halogen throws a pretty fair amount of light. So I wouldn't expect a Xenon (even if there was one to fit) to do much better. It's a spread beam - not much chance of improving the "throw" of the beam. You really need a "spot" or "pencil" pattern to get good throw.

When searching through pages in the "members" area, the "Jump to page" function jumps to Page 1, regardless of which page you want to jump to.

I believe you have 2 options. First, the machine shop would ordinarily sleeve the cylinders back to standard bore. Second, get the machinist to bore the cylinders over by the smallest possible amount, then get someone to make a set of pistons to suit the new bore size (I used Australian Precision Engine Parts in Wantirna (Vic) to make me a set of forged os pistons for my RB25).

How?

If the battery is COMPLETELY flat, then that has the same effect as disconnecting it. Controllers in general should always retain their information - who would want to re-program a PFC just because the battery went flat? Radios and the like will lose their settings.

If you are getting heat transfer into the sensor, then you are getting heat transfer into the air in the plenum. And I suspect that the sensor is actually registering the heat-soaked air in the plenum rather than sensing heat transfer from the metal of the plenum.

This appears to be part of the standard marking on the plug, doesn't indicate anything special about the plug, AFAICT.

Check: Engine temp sensor Throttle valve switch - sending "throttle closed" signal AAC valve seized Air regulator not closing Air leaks Most of these have been covered, you just need to search on how to test / fix them.

For the 32s, it is either the engine temp sensor (disconnect it, see if engine starts), or a fuel pressure problem.

Volts and amps are different things.I would expect any half reasonable relay, eg Bosch, would do the trick.

That would be the rating of the relay, not the fuse.

The fuse block cover has the fuse layout printed on it. The layout includes the size of each fuse.

Beats the Rolls Royce with a 27L V12 Spitfire Merlin engine - they reckon it sounded like Heathrow at peak hour! Max revs I think were about 2700.

Better, throw it in the oil recycling drum!

Haven't read EVERY page, but has anyone noticed that the "TOP" button has disappeared from threads. (was next to where "Report" is now)

There is some talk of extending the age restriction to 30 years.