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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Why not just tape the button "IN" with duct tape. When you are finished drifting, remove the tape, and you have a normal handbrake.
  2. blind_elk
    Rotors are the same, so the calipers are presumably the same.
  3. blind_elk
    Shouldn't be any need to have the discs machined. And you can deglaze the pads by roughing them on a concrete path.
  4. blind_elk
    Best place to start is with the CAS in the middle. As you try to start the engine, you could make minor manual adjustments to the CAS's position so that you get a smooth idle. Once the engine is up to temp, get the timing light onto it.
  5. blind_elk
    Have you got compression? Injectors should have constant 12V on one pin, the other pin gets switched to earth by the ECU. There should be a tutorial on how to get diagnostics. (And how do you check timing if the engine won't run?)
  6. blind_elk

    Powder Coating

    blind_elk replied to GCC GTR's topic in Victoria

    And that would be me not reading all the posts properly
  7. blind_elk

    Powder Coating

    blind_elk replied to GCC GTR's topic in Victoria

    There's one in Williamstown - Kororoit Ck Rd, just east of (Altona) rail line.
  8. blind_elk
    My money is on the HICAS kicking in.
  9. blind_elk
    Hunting idle like this is usually the AAC (or maybe more correctly IAC) valve. It probably needs all the carbon crap cleaned out of it.
  10. blind_elk
    R32 calipers with R32 GT-R slotted rotors (RDA group buy).
  11. blind_elk
    For $350, you could probably get some 2nd hand GT-R calipers (as I have recently done on my 32). Then you won't need adapters.
  12. blind_elk
    I'm running a 1mm gap @ 150AWkW & heat range 6 (I think) in my RB25DET, with Splitfire coils. Don't have any sort of problem with misfires or the like.
  13. blind_elk
    Depends how much power you are making. If the engine is still basically stock, then gap the plugs to factory (1.1mm).
  14. blind_elk
    I believe that as well as detonating at lean mixtures, sometimes if the mixture is too rich will also cause detonation. Don't ask me why / how, I'm not an engineer, just heard somewhere.One solution to the immediate problem is to not drive the car like a maniac.
  15. blind_elk
    My experience has been that it is very difficult to get thermos to work efficiently - actually, more difficult to keep the engine cool under normal operating conditions. Stick with the factory viscous clutch setup, IMO.
  16. blind_elk
    Maybe there's a leak in the system, and you don't have any gas left.
  17. blind_elk
    Approx 315mm ball-centre to ball-centre.
  18. blind_elk
    RB30ET.The badge is probably just a bit of "wank factor"!
  19. blind_elk
    Still stands - smaller tyre at the front / larger at the rear means that the rear has more grip, conversely the front has LESS grip. Result - understeer. Consider the ultimate in tyre size discrepany in a Top Fuel dragster. They have minimal requirements for front grip because they basically don't need to turn corners, so have VERY SMALL front tyres, but have HUGE rear tyres for acceleration grip.
  20. blind_elk
    Was about to suggest it might not have been a V-Spec, but the previous owner has upgraded the fronts to Brembos. Considering the majority of the braking is done at the front, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the setup you have.
  21. blind_elk
    These 2 statements contradict each other. The tyres are there for GRIP. Wider tyres at the rear will, in general, increase the rear grip levels, and that may induce understeer. And, if you are going to fit 2 different size tyres front & rear, then you really should fit 2 different size rims front and rear, because tyres have an optimum rim width which they are designed to fit. My 2c worth.
  22. blind_elk
    We were talking about this only last week, FFS! Yes, it was for a RB25, but the principle is the same!
  23. blind_elk
    The timing light is necessary to check that the CAS is re-positioned correctly - it is adjustable, after all.
  24. blind_elk
    Have you checked all the fuses? Also, check the fusible link which is attached to the +ve battery cable.
  25. blind_elk
    In the R32, difficult to start after warm up, ie when engine is hot, can be: Engine temp correction - check the engine temp sensor resistance value, and check the sensor output voltage. Fuel pressure - try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the FPR, or clamp the return line. Cranking speed - how good is the battery? Probably similar in the R33.
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