blind_elk

Hvae you had the injectors cleaned? If you disconnect the vac line from the fpr at idle, pressure should go UP, not DOWN. It's probably running too rich at idle - lean it off a bit (if you can - after all, you are using injectors that deliver twice what the standard injector delivers). Give it a bit of extra timing below idle rpm, eg if you have it set for 15 deg at 750 rpm idle, give it 17 at 500 and 19 at 400. Is the "fuel cut on overrun" working, ie does the EMS shut down the injectors when the throttle snaps shut (like during gear changes)?

Actually erderr, keep tyres pumped UP, or even UPPER, in the wet. It holds the tread open so it can shed water better. Back to the OP - what suspension do you have? If you have Japanese "coilovers", the suspension will be quite stiff. This does not allow good weight transfer on acceleration, and the drive wheels will lose traction in the wet. I had a 240Z with VERY stiff rear springs - in the wet, I could spin wheels DOWN Mt Jane (Calder).

Thanks for the comments. The guy clearly doesn't want to sell - both phone calls "rejected", and didn't respond to email - what a loser! Andrew, the Falcon is no fuel miser after you attach the trailer. I get around 400k to a tank (E10), yet when I picked the car up from my brother in Gundagai, I got over 600! Might look into upgrading to an EFI version engine.

Even with a wideband sensor, the gauge will still flicker, because that's the way O2 sensors work. Except when you are hard on the throttle - gauge should read full rich- or decell, when gauge will read ultra lean.

So the testers went to the expense of sending samples to a lab for a full chemical analysis? Yes, it will tend to go off over time. As long as there is some coolant treatment there, I wouldn't be too concerned. Worst case, change the coolant after you get the car home.

First of all, the Skyline is a sports car, not a luxury limousine. Therefore it should have a relatively firm ride quality. The springs are there to support the weight of the car, and the shock absorbers are there to control the action of the springs. (Without shock absorbers, the car will just wallow all over the place, like a Yank Tank). My experience has been that dead shocks will induce a severe harshness into the ride quality. To get what you want, I would suggest something like a KYB replacement shock absorber, with a set of Kings standard height springs. While this will firm up the ride a bit, it will not give the harshness that dead shocks can induce (and I'm guessing this is what you have atm).

And BOTH feet on the brake pedal!

Ordinarily you would only do the oil-pressure-build-up on a brand new built engine. The last thing you want is for your brand new engine to fire, and have absolutely no oil flowing and lubricating your brand new bearings. So you crank it over so you can see that oil pressure is happening. A few weeks for a previously working engine wouldn't be such a problem, and you would probably have oil pressure by the time the engine actually fires.

I've been having troubles with the XF Falcon (4.1L manual) that I use to tow my lawn mowing business trailer around. I've come across a possible R30 hatch, manual - which will replace the one stolen last April - and was wondering what others think about its capability to tow a trailer that will weigh around 1 Tonne fully laiden. Your thoughts appreciated.

Before you replace the battery, I would suggest you check that the voltage regulator - in the alternator - is functioning correctly (do a search for how to do that). Otherwise you risk stuffing another battery.

Before you start the engine, remove the spark plugs, then turn the engine on the starter motor and make sure you get oil pressure. Once you have oil pressure, it is safe to actually start the engine. The fuel will be fine for running the engine on low load, ie basically idle and low revs.

The connections tend to set with age. I find that grabbing the joint with a pair of vice grips and shocking the vicegrips usually works.

Have you checked / cleaned the air filter? Have you replaced the fuel filter?

Are you sending the bill to the inspector?

What does the manual say? I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter. But you could ask Wolf (www.wolfems.com).

Have you checked for +12V at the wire (use a multimeter)? The wiring is probably broken somewhere.

I would think that basically you don't have any rings left. (bent valves generally give zero compression).Time for a rebuild (or replacement).

All it tells you is that #1 coil is working.Have you checked the spark plugs in 1,3,5 cylinders? Have you checked that the injectors are working - maybe they need a good clean?

It shouldn't. At idle, the volume of gas passing the O2 sensor is very small, so the ECU should ignore any information it gets from the sensor.

With IGN = ON, you should have +12V on one side of the injector. The other side is switched to earth through the ECU.

How many frikken times do we have to answer this question???????????????????????????????????

Take the coil off #1 plug, and insert a conventional spark plug lead between the coil and the spark plug. Then check timing "old school".

Check the radiator cap. If the overflow bottle was full, the radiator should have pulled all the fluid back from the overflow as it cooled. A faulty cap would let air in past its seal, rather than pulling from the overflow.

I think it's related to the ATTESSA system - relay switches in and out to keep the stystem pressurised. It is happening all the time, just that other noises drown it out when you are driving.

If the pushrod at the master isn't adjusted correctly, it might not allow the pistons to back off correctly, and thus hold the pad against the rotor. I'm guessing that the pistons are easy enough to push back while you are changing pads.