blind_elk

There is loads of information on this forum as to how the AWD system operates. Do a search. The gauge will sit on 0 in normal driving. Your search will reveal when the gauge will move off 0. The 4/2 WD switch works by isolating the ATTESSA computer. Again, heaps of information on this forum - SEARCH. Fuses are located in the bottom of the dash, by your right knee (which you would have found with a search!).

???? And no, never had a problem with the glovebox either!

The speedo will work because it's mechanical. Do the warning lights come on when you put the key to "ON", ie just before you start the engine? Any other symptoms you can tell us about? Maybe check the fuses with a multimeter - often the fuse can look perfectly ok but have the smallest of breaks in the fuse material.

What have you checked? Or did you simply fire off a question? With things electrical failing, the very first place to look is the fuses, so go and have a look.

The springs are probably soft enough. The suspension is probably hard because the shocks are past their "best before" date. New shocks - something inexpensive like a KYB - will probably fit the bill.

My experience with the 32 is that it is easiest if you remove the IC piping from around the P/S pump to give clearer access to the adjusting bolt. Wouldn't be surprised if you need to do the same with the 33.

You might be measuring the amps incorrectly. The ammeter needs to be in series, so you disconnect the +ve terminal and connect the ammeter between the +ve of the battery and the +ve terminal/cable. 0.42A shouldn't be enough drain on the battery to flatten it in a day. Also, when the engine is running, how many volts at the battery? How many volts at 2k rpm?

If you need added support, the seat is where you should be looking. Something like a Recaro - comes in many designs, so you should find one to suit your needs. And they are surprisingly inexpensive (when compared to a factory Nissan seat).

Visit your local Pirtek / Enzed store and get the oil-resistant hose.

This is from the R32 Engine Manual for "difficult to start - engine cold": 1. Fuel enrichment from engine temperature sensor not working (sensor not working at cold) - disconnect sensor - any difference? - sensor resistance value? - sensor voltage value? 2. Idle speed control (AAC) not working - AAC valve closed? - AAC valve plug disconnected? 3. Start time enrichment not working (check through CONSULT) 4. Cranking speed too low (sus battery, sus starter motor) (presumably same or very similar for RB33)

If I'm understanding this (http://www.mantaro.com/resources/impedance_calculator.htm#air_core_solenoid) correctly, the impedance of a RB26 injector solenoid is fixed. RB26 injectors are low-impedance injectors. The purpose of the resistor pack is to reduce the current passing through the solenoid's inductor coil. If you are using RB26 injectors then you will need a dropping resistor pack. Unless the PFC can detect and automatically adjust the current it delivers to drive the RB26 injector's solenoid. (feel free to correct me if I misunderstand the whole concept)

Then reset the ECU and see what error codes come up.Could be a sticking AAC valve causing the idle hunting.

Which ECU? Maybe a faulty (ECU) temp sender (ECU thinks the engine is warm). Maybe faulty cold start air correction valve.

Have an XF Falcon that I got from my brother. AFAIK, it's still original engine, has a bit over 447k on it. Probably lasted this long because my brother lived in quite remote places, but worked in Sydney (Qantas international pilot, so only drives to work once a week! every couple of weeks - 400k up the Hume).

20 deg is "cold". 80 deg is "hot". According to my manual, specifications for the engine temp sensor is in ohms, with resistance across the 2 pins as: "cold" = 2.5Kohm "hot" = 0.3Kohm. The relationship is not linear, so 10deg might be around 5Kohm. But I would suspect that as long as you have similar order of magnitude readings, you could assume the sensor is working correctly. Also, if there is a problem, Code 31 might be present when you do the ECU diagnosis.

Vice Grips FTW.

BS! Which Wolf 3D are you talking about? These are available in the "4 Plus" version.Nothing intrinsically wrong with the Wolf. I run 1 myself, and it works fine. And it's Oz designed and made.

NS40ZL is recommended. Just because the battery holds charge doesn't necessarily mean it is healthy. The fact that it can't start the car would indicate that it is getting a bit past it's use-by date.

Well, you should. There is a reason why tyres come with a recommended rim width, which for a 215 is 7 - 8.5 inch.Glad you're in the Gong - means there's little chance of meeting you on the road.

Fan should be set to come on at around 95. Thermo fans only need to run when the engine overheats. If you want one that works most of the time, put the factory fan back on. Did you refit the "stone guard" under the radiator?

Base idle will have a minor effect on the reading you get. But I would expect only 1-2 deg variance from spec. Are you sure the lead you are using isn't broken at all? You could also try removing the boot from the coil and connecting the plug lead to the coil.

Just use an ordinary spark plug lead. Peel back the "distributor" end fitting (shorter cap) and insert the exposed lead end into the coil so the lead contacts the coil's output pin. You don't need a bolt or anything similar.

The '11' on the end is the plug gap - 1.1mm. This is a nominal manufacturer setting - you should double check as you install each plug. If you have a few mods that might increase engine power, consider reducing the gap a bit, say 1.0 or 0.9mm .

Generally, the alternator is a dud. With engine running, battery should be in the range 13.8 - 14.4V, even with engine only idling.

Use a multimeter to test the voltage at the battery under the various conditions - lights on, lights off, stereo on, stereo off, engine at idle, engine at 2000, any others you can think of. Q - have you checked the tension on the alternator belt?