blind_elk

You've got fluid in the clutch reservoir? (yes, stupid question, I know, but I know a case of someone whose car stopped, and he swore it had fuel in the tank, which it didn't!). Is the clutch pedal sitting at the correct height when the pedal is up (should be close to the same height as the brake pedal)?

Duncan, I think the problem luxing is having is whether or not the output shafts will fit into the appropriate location in the diff centre, ie is the shaft of a GTSt the right diameter, length and spline configuration to mesh with the diff centre. And I don't know that, which is why I suggested to just swap the gears themselves. (If I had done the whole assembly swap with my Stagea diff into the R32, I probably would have lost any LSD function, because it seemed that the Stagea had an open rear diff) GTS4 is 35:8 = 4.375.GTSt is 4.363? That would make it 48:11.

That ratio is from a Stagea (= 4.083:1). GT-R is 9 (pinion) and 37 (crown wheel). Get a replacement diff (GT-R, GTSt, Stagea, doesn't really matter), and swap the crown wheel onto your existing centre, and the pinion into your existing housing. That way, input and output bits will still match up. If you get a differential specialist to do it, they can set up the backlash correctly at the same time. BTW, the ratio is generally stamped somewhere on the crown wheel ("teeth on c/w" : "teeth on pinion") - saves a heap of tooth counting!

You need to remove both front driveshafts, then remove the front cover. With the LH driveshaft, you undo the flange joint adjacent to the sump, then undo the flange on the sump and pull the shaft outwards (not necessarioy "out"). The diff unit will then basically fall out of the housing.

The sensor in the bottom of the radiator is an overheat sensor for the A/C - it turns opn the thermo fan in front of the A/C radiator. Not absolutely necessary.

Bullitt's Mustang http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/bulimages/columbus.jpg http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b...rninrubber4.jpg http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/bulimages/smokin.jpg

Turns out I know John, so I'm sure he would do me or my brother a good deal. As it turns out, my brother saw the car and thought "tell him he's dreaming"!

Tell them you have a R31.

Some "come to you" injector cleaning vans are able to clean the injectors while still fitted to the engine (LubeMobile, I think, is one of them).

They go a lot better with a RB25DET (ex Stagea).

Of course its bad for the bloody car! How to fix? Don't "smash 1st to 2nd"! Pump the tyres back up (for general road holding). And stiff suspension won't be helping at all (you don't get proper weight transfer onto the rear wheels).

Have you checked all the intercooler pipework?

Is the HICAS warning light working (should be ON just before START)?

I run 36 in my 235/45x17s. The bigger the tyre diameter and the lower the profile, the more pressure you need to run. So, I would recommend at least 38, maybe even 40.

If you have disconnected the actuator from the gate itself, the gate should just flop all over the place. Sounds like your new one has a seized gate.

I can help you out with a spare module. Have you done the test to see which coil is misfiring?

Maybe the switch is kaput. Test it with a multimeter.

Hook it up as Panko described (you can get a short spark lead when you get the timing light).You read the timing on the crank pulley (big one down the bottom of the front of the engine). There is a set of 7 marks at 5 deg increments, which move from driver side to passenger side (L->R as you stand looking into the engine bay). The last mark (left-most) is TDC (Top Dead Centre). Each time the coil fires on the #1 cylinder, the timing light will flash its light. The flash will "stop" the crank pulley so you can read which mark is aligned with the pointer located on the crank case cover. You want 15 deg BTDC (Before TDC), which should be the 4th mark (from either end).

There's a bit of info in "How to Make Your Car Handle", by Fred Puhn (available at Pitstop Bookshop - http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/technical-c.../query/plu/1734). The front roll centre of the GT-R will be fairly easy to calculate, not so sure about the rear. From the book:

Get a leakdown test done on the engine - that will at least tell you where the lack of compression is.

Flushing the radiator in this manner is juat a total waste of time. The radiator got blocked trying to push the crap from top to bottom, and the crap got stuck. How is pushing it in the same direction supposed to clear it?You need to reverse flush the radiator - better if you take it to a radiator place to have it done properly.

Why do you think you need to be running that low in the rev range? Nissan will have set the tune of the engine to be optimised with the gearing of the car. Changing the diff ratios will upset that balance.

Air pressure is coming from the plenum through the inlet valves into the cylinder, and out into the rocker covers through the valve stems and valve stem seals. Maybe the ex valves aren't closed at the particular postion the engine is at, or the they aren't sealing properly. Or it could be blowing by the rings into the sump and up into the rocker covers. Try rotating the engine a bit so that a different cylinder has its inlet valves open, then check again.

The nozzles shut off in reaction to back-pressure - change the "angle of the dangle" to change the way back-pressure builds up. Some nozzles seem more sensitive than others - try a different pump.

The single-pin plug is usually the one for the gauge, the 2-pin is for the ECU. You generally need both.