blind_elk

R32 GT-R rim has a smaller offset. Std rim is a 16", 6" wide I think. (R33 GTSt rotors appear to be same diameter as R32 GT-R rotors)

Check all the intercooler plumbing connections.

Have you tried rotating the shock tops 180 degrees?

Bilstein shocks with Kings lowered springs should lower the car correctly, and give you a firm ride with good handling.

I've used a Bride rail to mount a Recaro in my 32. Not sure which model though. I think I had to drill some new holes in it to suit the Recaro.

A 235 tyre fits nicely on a 7.5" rim. I wouldn't advise going wider. I still run 235s on an 8" rim (and no need to roll the rims either).

Is it possible the air temp sensor is failing? Getting heat sink onto the sensor during "off", and ECU can't handle the readings the sensor is giving.

Try Pedders.

Worked fine when I fitted GT-R calipers to my GTS4.

Super Crap have a little kit that has a 1-way valve so that you can bleed the brakes with 1 person. Around $15.

If there is no cam belt, then the cams won't turn with the crank, and you will end up with valves still protruding into piston space. What does "CYL 1 at BTDC" mean? Do you mean TDC? (B = Before) How does the RB26 rod compare in length to RB25 rods? Maybe the RB26 rods are too long, and are trying to push the piston crown into the combustion chamber.

What plugs are you running now? Unless you have some serious boost, I doubt the 7 heat range plugs will fix the problem - probably only make it worse.

Yes. Nailed it in 1.

NOTHING TO DO WITH THE O2 SENSOR!!!!!! Standard Iridium plug is a (NGK) heat range 5, I believe. Try some BCPR5ES plugs, see what happens.

I was under the impression that to get a licence (at least in Vic), you had to be able to parallel park. Why then did some dufus (on Ps) ask me to park his car today while I was working out front of a police station!?

I have a feeling that that CAS won't work on a RB30 engine - it looks like it only has 4 triggers, not 6.

What ECU are you using? S2 engines have the ignitor for the coils built in, S1s had a separate igniter box.

Well, does it?

It's been covered before - not more than 2 months ago, complete with pics. 1. Remove the hose between the left (passenger) rocker cover and the turbo inlet. 2. Run a hose from the left rocker cover to the catch can. 3. Run another hose from the catch can to the turbo inlet. How simple is that? To reduce the risk of oil fumes being carriewd over to the turbo - the general purpose of the catch can - fill the can with steel wool. This provides a surface to assist with getting the oil out of the air.

Sorry, misunderstood your description. Probably just needs a service while the gearbox is out, I don't think it needs replacing. And make sure it has a good earth when you put it back together.

Had a similar problem - starter solenoid would click click click. Fitted a relay to the solenoid and have not had a single repeat since. It's a pretty cheap mod, why not do it anyway.

Yes, you'll need to order one from your Nissan dealer. (not sure if a wrecker will sell you one from gearbox)

So does the coil (from #1) work on #2? If so, then it could be a faulty spark plug - have you tried swapping the spark plugs? Or it could be a fault in the loom to #1 coil.

How "good"? What voltage: @OFF @START @IDLE From memory, this is a voltage (or maybe charging rate) problem as seen by the ATTESSA computer.

GPS is an ideal way to verify speed. I'm not aware of the R32 tacho being switchable, but the difference in revs sounds like a tacho switch to monitor a 4-cyl engine, but getting the signal from a 6.