blind_elk

If you let the master cylinder reservoir empty, you need to bleed the master cylinder. Bleed it BEFORE you bleed each corner.

I did the same conversion to my R32 GTS4. I got a Stagea rear diff from one of the import wreckers in Sydney - I think it might have been UAS. Just get the gears transferred to your diff - I think the Stagea rear is non-LSD, so you certainly don't want the centre out of it.

Have you thought about getting the injectors cleaned? Have you tested the fuel pressure? What's the base ignition timing?

Yes, solved. Re-fitted the joint after cleaning up the thread, then took the car through one of the corners where it used to misbehave, and it didn't. I guess the moral of this story is never guess that the technology is always at fault.

Have you tried any of the wreckers to get hold of a space-saver spare? If it's only going to be a "spare", then it doesn't have to be 17". Try for a 15" or 16".

Might be the same part, but not necessarily the same part number.

I'm trying to get some replacement ball joints through Bursons. They got some in from interstate, but they look nothing like what I have. Anyone able to confirm the correct part number for a replacement lower balljoint, RH if it matters, for a R32 GTS4 RB20DET. Nissan gave me 40160-05U00. And they want $170!! Also, what is the part number for the R32 GT-R equivalent? Tx

3.8bar at IGN ON is a bit high. 2bar at start is too low. Specs are: 3.0 @ IGN ON 2.5 @ idle 3.0 @ idle with vac hose disconnected Are you sure the pump is working while the engine is cranking?

Have you tried unlocking / opening the door from inside?

What is the fuel pressure? Have you checked compression readings?

Have you considered the fuel filter might be blocked?

Solved! (well, once I get a replacement part it will) I had noticed that it appeared to misbehave when the front right corner was loaded. I had thought it might be the upper control arm bushes (adjustable camber bushes) having collapsed, causing dynamic change to the toe-in. However, when I jacked it up today, I found: The split pin has somehow come out of the outer ball joint, and the retaining nut has started to undo. So it wasn't the rear end that was turning out, but the front end turning in.

Don't forget that if you don't have a front diff, then you don't have front driveshafts. If you don't have front driveshafts, you don't have axles for the front wheels / hubs. Sell the GTS4, buy a GTSt if you only want RWD. Don't go destroying a perfectly good car because you made the wrong choice of car in the first place.

If the probe on the mm doesn't fit, you can often use an opened-out paperclip into the back of the plug, then connect the mm via alligator clips. To measure / observe closed loop, you will need the O2 sensor plug connected, but for the others, you can unplug and measure off the O2 itself.

Check with a multimeter. +ve connected to the middle wire of the O2 sensor -ve to earth. Engine at operating temp. The (standard, narrow-band) O2 sensor ranges 0 - 1V. (I think) 0 = lean, 1 = rich. From idle, punch the throttle, O2 should go rich. Back off (snap throttle closed), O2 goes lean. Hold revs @2000, O2 should oscillate between lean and rich, averaging 0.5V. This is the "closed loop" that gets mentioned often. Jaycar has a kit that you can hook into the O2 sensor - gives you a pretty "dancing lights" display to indicate what the O2 sensor is seeing.

Bilstein shock absorbers are the best for the GT-R. They were developed for the Nissan Racing Team GroupA race cars. Firm, but not teeth chattering. Coupled with a Kings lowered spring, you will have a low, but not too low, ride height. Then upgrade the sway bars for handling. It's a sports car, not a luxury saloon - suspension should be firm, not yank-tank sponge rubber wallowing. DO NOT run different sized tyres front and rear. If you do, do not come whinging about ATTESSA misbehaving.

"discs" and "rotors" are the same thing.Does your car have ABS?

Which "idle screw" did you adjust? DO NOT adjust the throttle stop screw (on the side of the TB). You adjust the screw in the IAC (with the electrical plug disconnected). Have you checked base timing? What ECU is it running? The AFM shouldn't need specific cleaning - on shutdown, the ECU heats the AFM hot-wire to burn any crap off.

Nissan / Skyline / R32 GTS4 Datsun / 180B / SSS Ford / XF Falcon

Yes!!That is not why we are here. It's idiots like you that give the rest of us a bad name. Go back to your bloody Commonwhores if you want to behave like that! [/rant]

Unless the engine is seriously modified, it shouldn't need a 0.8 spark gap. Try opening the gap out a bit, maybe 1mm. If the plugs are coming out "wet", then it is obvious fuel is getting into the cylinders. Make sure you dry them off before re-fitting them. Try starting with a bit of throttle - let some air in to match the apparent additional fuel. Also, try starting while slowly adjusting the CAS (if you suspect the CAS might be mis-adjusted). Have you checked the fuel pressure that the fpr is delivering?

I need a qualified sparky to install some new light switches I've purchased. Werribee area. Willing to pay something for your time. PM if you can help. Tx

Ok, so I've tried a couple of things. First, I disconnected the HICAS ECU - that's the small box, held in by 3 bolts, and connected to 2 plugs, right? Anyway, no loose items floating around inside. Opened it up, looks ok. On the road, the steering is now noticeably heavier (but not like no P/S at all). And the rear end is questionable as to its stability. Tried to check the HICAS sensor in the steering wheel - couldn't get the fn steering wheel off! Despite the retaining nut was quite loose, the wheel is firmly attached to the steering column. I'm beginning to lean towards a worn component - tie rod, etc - being the root cause of all this. I was told some time ago that there is a bit of wear in the inner joints in the (front) steering rack, so should check that further as well.

Its the thermo switch for the A/C fan. It only operates a few degreees above thermostatted temp. For a thermo fan, it is better to have it switch on at higher temps, in the 90s is quite acceptable.

The ECU won't be in closed loop when the engine is cold, because the ECU is running the engine quite rich while the engine warms up.