blind_elk

Pretty much mutually exclusive requirements.Certainly, "lots of grip" and "long life" are. I'm currently running Falken 912s. Have previously run B/S Potenza GIIIs. All under $200 each. Generally get in excess of 20k out of them. But then I don't do burnouts, or drift around corners.

You should be able to get a compression reading in about 5 cycles of the engine. The first cycle will generally give most of the compression reading. If the gauge doesn't behave like that, toss it and get a decent gauge - they're not really that expensive.

But not all the pins. (And it's "loom")

The instruction manual should be able to tell you which pins are for the air temp sensor. Then just lay some wire to suit.

I just left my AFM in place - so it looks legit. I don't seem to have any problems with it causing any sort of restriction.

Might be same size, but if they are different manufacturer or different model by same manufacturer, then they could be slightly different. The width is generally "nominal". It's the rolling diameter / circumference that is important. It was odd that you got the problem you had. Ordinarily, the symptoms would be a jerkiness in the AWD system, because ATTESSA sees the slightly smaller (older) rears "slipping"" relative to the (newer) fronts.

The injectors should be normally closed until switching power is applied. It's probable that some gum has developed around the needle of 1 or more injectors. The cheapest option right now is to take them out and have them all sonic cleaned. This will at least give you an idea of whether or not they are still serviceable or if they need to be replaced. Adding injector cleaner when the injectors are this far gone has the same result as setting fire to a $20 note.

From the Davies Craig website (http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Fan_Clutches-b-content.aspx)

R33s have always had RB25 engines, so there's nothing "unique" about that. Is it a "GTS4" because it is a 4-door or because it has AWD? The AWD version never came out of the factory with a turbo, only N/A and 4-stud rims.

Chances are that the second hand one, if it isn't already rooted, my well soon be rooted. Better and safer to get yours reco'd at least, if not replaced with new.

You can't tell by looking at them. What were the flow figures like? What was the spray pattern like?

The nistune has been programmed?

How about asking the question only once? Have a look at my comment here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/383659-high-idle/

You can possibly get Bosch units through Autobarn, SuperCrap, Bursons, Repco, etc.

Many people have had high idle problems - a search would have revealed this. Have you done anything to the throttle bodies recently? Have you checked TPS for "throttle closed"?

1. How old is the battery? If the battery is old, it will lose a lot of charge on startup. The alternator then starts pumping heaps of amps back to the battery to get it recharged. The ECU sees this amperage as some sort of error, and switches to a sort of limp mode that burns fuel like it was going out of fashion. (the "O2 sensor" in the cat is the cat temperature sensor). Have you had the injectors sonic cleaned? Not "I ran injector cleaner", actually removed, cleaned and flowed in a sonic bath. 2. Try doing the HICAS diagnostic. 3. You have oil in the rear diff? Change the diff oil? (although it's probably shagged by now)

Setup for a RB26 is basically the same as for any RB engine. They all have the "U" tube connecting the in & ex rocker covers. Any setup that is NOT venting to atmosphere and retains the PCV valve is acceptable. I posted a pic of my setup (RB25DET) several months ago. I think it is a good template for any oil catch can (more correctly "oil - air separator").

Say What????FRP = Fibre Reinforced Plastic. Usually a polyester resin incorporating strands of glass, or other, fibres, either as a mat or as chopped strands. (GFRP = Glass Fibre Reinforced Plastic) No reason why they would not be legal. (front) Guards are not a structural component of the vehicle.

Then maybe change your driving style a bit. Instead of simply flooring it, feed the power (watch the in-car shots of V8 super taxi drivers when they show the feet movements). When you floor it, the ECU dumps a heap of fuel in, temporarily flooding the engine.

You don't appear to be making mega horsepower - open the plug gaps out to maybe 1mm and see what happens.

Annual NDSOC Concourse (Show'n'Shine) today. Chris Samuels from Nissan brought along their development R35 GT-R. Paint job is matte black, like the Stealth Bomber.

You also need to consider that the greater proportion of the braking effort is carried by the front brakes. Minimally larger rear brakes are unlikely to make a noticeable improvement to overall braking performance. I have fitted GT-R rotors / calipers to the front of my R32 GTS4, and have not noticed any bias problems.

400 of city driving sounds pretty fair. You could expect to get more on the highway. City driving will have very little time to utilise the O2 sensor, since the ECU only reads the sensor at constant throttle (cruise), and there's not a lot of constant throttle in stop-start city driving.

Save your energy - it won't be the O2 sensor! I reckon it's a coil breaking down. Work out which cylinder is running crook, then swap that cylinder's coil with another coil, see if the misfire follows the coil.

There is a housing on the side of the sump that houses the front differential. Also, the drive shaft to the LH wheel goes through the sump (through a tube through the sump).A RB20 sump won't even come close, because it is 6 cylinders long, while the VG30 is only 3 cylinders long! I expect you will need a custom bell housing to allow the RB gearbox to bolt to the VG block.