blind_elk

It's H for HIGH, not H for HOT.If you replace the oil filter at the same time as you do an oil change, you need to put most of the oil in and run the engine for a few seconds before checking the oil level in the sump. Then add oil to bring the level up to the H mark.

Unfortunately the earth didn't move for me. Was sitting in a classroom at NMIT Fairfield when one of the guys said he just got a sms about it from his wife.

Actually you can. As long as the semis have a larger rolling diameter than the 18s you won't have problems with ATTESSA.

My bad - found an old thread that suggested that the TPS could cause this problem if not connected properly.

Sick battery. Get it fully charged, should be ok.

As well as the half circle in the cam, there is a set of teeth on the cam and the CAS that mesh together when the CAS is installed. So you can set it up about 10 different ways if the half circle is missing. There is only one mounting position for the CAS that will allow the engine to start.

You clearly haven't understood what has been said. If you run the same size (width / profile) tyres on staggered rims (regardless of the rim diameter) the "effective" profile will be different between the wider and narrower pairs of rims. The narrow rims will cause the tyre to "puff up", the wider rims will cause the tyres to be slightly "stretched". And the rolling diameters will be different (rear < front). In this configuration, you are at great risk of having problems with the ATTESSA system being confused by the imbalance in rolling diameters. We strongly recommend NOT running staggered rims on any AWD Nissans. If you insist on doing so, do not complain when ATTESSA goes haywire.

Lancers have a totally different AWD system. They are constant AWD - FWD + feed some power to the rear wheels. ATTESSA is an intelligent AWD - RWD, and feeds power to the front when necessary.ATM, your rears have a smaller rolling diameter than the fronts - this will cause havoc with ATTESSA because it will think the rears are slipping. And to keep the speedo correct, you should be running a 45 profile on the rears. That will actually correct any potential problems with ATTESSA. If you run the same width and profile on staggered rims, you will still have problems because the fronts will "puff up" and run a higher effective profile and larger rolling diameter. The added advantage of running the same size rims / tyres all round is that you can swap them F<>R to even out tyre wear. If you insist on running staggered rims, please do not come back bleating about problems with the ATTESSA system.

We are talking shock absorber / spring assembly. The other components of the front and rear suspension are totally independent of the shock / spring assembly. According to an old KYB catalogue I have, the (R32) GT-R / GTSt have the same P/N for the front shock, and a different P/N for the rear, with a special note about the lower bracket mount type for the GT-R (GT-R uses a 'fork' attachment, GTSt uses the 'eye' attachment). The R32 GTS4 uses GT-R suspension components. If you owned one, you would know all about the differences.

My experience is that Nissan gearboxes are generally over-engineered. I have a Stagea RB25DET in my 32 GTS4 - no problems with the box wanting to fail, even with 180AwkW pushing through it. It is easy enough to swap the front diff from your current engine into the Stagea housing. Manual Stagea engines are rare - an auto can easily be "manualised" with a flywheel, clutch and spigot bearing.

Other way round - rear is GT-R. Best to just think GT-R for any suspension requirements for the GTS4.

I have these on a 32 GTS4, they came off a 33, although not exactly sure of the offset. They easily clear the brakes (GT-R front, stock rear). Look better when fitted with 235/45x17s.

The RB20 from the 200ZR is the red-top (NICS) version. They have a variable length inlet runner that changes lengths via a butterfly in the inlet. The butterfly is prone to jamming, and you usually end up with an engine with good bottom end and crap top end, or crap bottom end and good top end. Or, if you are using an aftermarket ECU, the butterfly may not be working at all (so you are probably stuck with the bottom end working). Because the RB20DET isn't really all that grunty, you need a fairly tall (?, higher numerically) diff to get the car moving. For example, the R32 GTS4 (ECCS engine, 160kW) has a 4.375 diff ratio. When you upgrade to a RB25DET, you can easily drop to a 4.1 ratio. With either of these ratios, highway cruising is around 3000 rpm.

Will be on tonight

R32 GTS-t front rotor is 280mm x 30 (28 min). R32 GT-R is 296mm x 32 Mount the caliper with a pad installed, and measure the distance centre of hub to top edge of pad. Double to get diameter. Should give you an idea of the required rotor diameter.

Probably not as strong as a GT-R, but can't say for sure. After all, it's only designed to handle a RB20DET. HICAS pump / reservoir is the same as the P/S pump /reservoir. R32 HICAS system is hydraulic, later models are electric. The reservoir in the boot is the ATTESSA fluid reservoir. Both are R200 diffs. There the similarities end. GTS4 is a viscous LSD, 4.375 ratio. GT-R is a mechanical LSD, 4.111 ratio. (Stagea, as in mine, is 4.083, open?) In the boot, under the rear parcel shelf. Inputs come from: ABS wheel sensors (wheel slip) Throttle G-sensors located under the centre console see 4. Also, search this site. Warning light in the dash will come on in any sort of error condition. From memory, it hangs off the rear diff Not normally, not in my case. Possibly a sign of a mistreated box. I haven't done anything like that in mine, which was dynoed to 180kW at all four. Depends. If you leave the ABS sensors, then ATTESSA should still work.

These transactions have a "concrete warranty" - the one that states that "once it's off my concrete, what warranty?" I think the dude has very little chance of being at all successful in his pursuit of you over this. As stated, who knows what happened to the engeine during the 2 months in question.

See my response in the "General Automotive" area.

AAC is there to basically help with idle. It will have limited impact on overall fuel economy. And anyway, 13km is not going to show up any variations to fuel economy.

Fuel filter?

Sorry for hijacking - what about using United Plus (regular E10) - its only 95 octane, but it's 4c/L cheaper than regular 91 octane. I'v got a Wolf, so I could retune if necessary. Since I generally don't nail the car, could I safely cruise around on E10.

If it is stock and you have new Splitfires, then reset the plug gaps out to 1.1mm (certainly don't close them down to less than 1mm). Are you sure you have the right heat range plugs - RB25s use a 5, eg BKR5E. Have you cleaned the injectors - not just run injector cleaner, but remove and sonic clean? Clean air filter? Check ignition timing.

The aerial in the 32 is in the front screen.

When I did it, I had to use a 3/4" drive socket and a breaker bar about 3 feet long! Shove a screwdriver or big bolt through one of the flange bolt holes to lock against the diff case.

How do you intend to get this sort of power?The RB20 is a much smaller bore than the RB26. So the combustion chamber of a RB26 is considerably larger than the RB20's. The piston at TDC will be like a dick-in-a-bucket fit into the chamber. The thing will have such low compression that you might be lucky to even start the engine. And the RB25 bore is the same as the 26.