blind_elk

If the engine is standard, open the spark gaps out, maybe not to factory 1.1, maybe to 1mm.

My experience is that that sort of idle indicates a fairly significant air leak. It could be in the boost controller, but you need to closely inspect every vacuum hose, especially the larger ones (like PCV to rocker hose).

While it's all apart, replace all the bearings (crank, big ends) and put new rings. Theory is that if one component has worn out, chances are another component isn't too far behind. Get everything balanced (rods, crank/flywheel, pistons), and maybe even try forged pistons.

That's how the are supposed to be set up. But very few actually set them up this way. Many set them so they are permanently on, which totally defeats the purpose - all that does is shift the load on the engine from the fan to the alternator.The problem I had when I tried it (32 GTS4), was getting air to flow through the radiator while the car was moving. I could only JUST get airflow, and the slightest uphill in the road coud induce the fan to activate. For the few kW gained by removing the load of the fan, it is not worth cooking an engine.

SAU is the only website where I get this problem. And it only started after the recent upgrade. My logic says it's not a Linux or Firefox problem.

In my signature, I have (want to have) the work "t u r k e y", but after I save it, it has been changed to "the sphincter of the universe". Why is it so?

Had switched to the "old" theme. With the new theme, it isn't a problem with the thread topic area, but the head of the page is still stuffed. Being overlain with my window tabs. How to I upload the PrtScr image? Using FF 11.0, on Linux. Don't see that it should matter, because it worked before the "upgrade". Had to take a photo:

It's all gone pear shaped. Using Firefox. At the top of the topic, I'm getting the window tabs being reporoduced, rather than the thread topic. In the SAU banner, I'm getting something else overlaying / interfering with the menu options. I tried doing a cut & paste to eshow what I mean, but it doesn't seem to want to work correctly (work the way I want it too). It's all crappy, AFIC.

This is the cradle that clamps the crank in place? Try 4.7-5.3 kg-m, in 2 or 3 stages tightening. Tightening order: 13 9 5 1 3 7 11 14 10 6 2 4 8 12

Didn't you read Moodles2's post? Tells you right there that the sensor turns on the A/C fan (in front of the A/C radiator) in overtemp situations. GTSBoy - the single spade temp sensor is for the gauge, the ECU reads off the 2-pin sensor.

That would usually be a wheel bearing. Try moving the wheel top to bottom - if you get the same sort of movement, then it will almost certainly be the wheel bearing. Might just need a bit of grease and a tighten up. Might be shot.

Best to get an alignment. No point in us speculating what might be right / wrong with your setup. Scrubbing the insides of tyres is usually a toe-out problem, but it could be camber, which could be bad setting or shot bushes.Get some numbers of how it is now. Also, try contacting the guys at Whiteline for some advice re alignment settings (they have, or used to have, some recommended numbers for the 32 GT-R).

Have you done anything recently, like new head unit? Fuses blowing immediately usually indicate a dead short in the wiring somewhere, ie a power wire has bared and is touching bodywork somewhere. Good luck finding that!

You can set it all correctly when you come to put it all back together. With the sump off, you can tell the #1 is roughly @ TDC.

If you are in Melbourne, then I can possibly help you out with a compressor from a Stagea RB25DET. Looking around $150.

Injector cleaner doesn't really clean dirty injectors. It will keep clean injectors clean, but can't remove the wax that builds up in the injector needles. You need to get them sonic cleaned.Octane boost is perfectly safe for O2 sensors.

Yes, the 2 sensors in the top radiator hose are for temperature - 2-pin = ECU, 1-pin = gauge. Simple way to test the sender/gauge, with ign @ ON, earth the wire to the sender - if the gauge goes full scale, then the gauge is working, sender more than likely is bung.

No!. All this is doing is blowing the exh side gasses straight back to the turbo intake, totally defeating the purpose of installing the catch can - more correctly "oil-air-separator".Leave the "U" hose connecting the 2 rocker covers. Disconnect the hose going from the exh cover down to the intake side of the turbo, and re-direct that to the catch can. Run the other fitting on the catch can back to the inlet side of the turbo. Simple.

How about making it stop?Three steps to improving a car: 1. Make it STOP 2. Make it HANDLE. 3. Now, make it GO FASTER.

Nissan dealers sometimes have parts available to replace worn out bits - bit of a stretch, but I wonder if they might have one?

What spring washers? The darkness you mistake for spring washers is simply shadow. And, yes, lock the locknuts out against the blue components.

Simple solution - mount the top, then you can use a big screwdriver or similar through the lower eye to twist the shock.

Which ignitor were you using originally? The ignitor doesn't determine the firing order, pin #1 fires coil #1, pin #2 fires coil #2, etc. The ecu controls the firing order.

Series 2 coils have the ignitor built in - doesn't require the separate ignitor.

Can probably help you there. Has a slight mark on the upper rear of the wing. Needs all the screw holes drilled into the "legs". $75. Call - 0421 331 954