blind_elk

Maybe the old clutch was able to slip a bit to allow "smooth" gear changes. New 6-puck won't slip enough to allow a smooth gear change.

You DO NOT want to be using a 15w oil. This is the viscosity behaviour at cold startup. You want a thin oil to get through all the oil galleries quickly, so you should be using a 5w or maybe 10w.The noise could be any number of things - sticking lifter, injector noise, piston slap, big ends.

Fuel pump primes when you switch to ON.

Gee, its a NISSAN seal in a NISSAN diff in a NISSAN car. I wonder if a NISSAN dealer might have some? (Replace both sides while you have the diff apart)

Does fitting a 6-cylinder engine into what is normally a 4-cylinder car involve anything that faintly resembles an adjustment to the tacho so that it now calculates for a 6-spark cycle instead of a 4-spark cycle?

Last place you want it. The Gibson Nissan Works GTRs had the HICAS removed because they found that if you suddenly backed off in a corner the HICAS became confused and could turn the car around.Don't understand what everyone has against HICAS - I've never had a problem with it. Maybe you guys just aren't up to driving a car with active steering.

ABS should be able to handle a 4-wheel lockup. ABS works by watching the ABS sensors; if the sensor stops rotating, then the ABS interprets that as lockup and releases pressure, then re-applies pressure. It can watch all 4 sensors simultaneously.Simplest method though is to learn threshold braking, where you become the ABS unit, and learn how to apply maximum braking pressure without locking wheels. (My 32 has ABS, which I think I have only ever activated maybe twice in the 11 years I have owned the car.) I wouldn't bother too much with "better" rear pads, since the greater majority of the braking is taken by the front brakes. For some additional cooling, remove the backing plates from the front rotor assembly.

You've made 2 changes, and now the engine doesn't run right. Well then, the obvious thing to do is go back to the point where the engine ran without any problems, and change just one. If the engine still runs fine, then it has to be the second change that is causing the current problem. Otherwise its the first change that is causing the current problem. It's not rocket science.

Might be a stupid question, but did you put it on the right way?

According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code green/red/red would be 5200 (green = 5, red = 2, red = *100)

That doesn't give "manifold" pressure (MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure). It certainly doesn't give manifold vacuum. On boost, it will tend to spike and drop back.The best place is off the manifold.

How do you know the cold idle is still on?

Yet they supposedly use the same technology that radar guns use.Probably why they have shut done most of them. If you want to double check the speedo, use a GPS.

How long did you wait between putting the oil in and checking the dipstick?

Guessing the car is still up on stands? Then, Yes. The ATTESSA computer is seeing "rear wheel slip", and applies drive to the front wheels.

Or Jim Murcott.

Usually, a hydraulic handbrake "master" is not like a normal master. The fluid can only be pushed in one direction. The problems that can arise is if you plumb the master in the wrong way. My experience is that the fluid comes in the rear fitting and out the front fitting - so the fluid does a sort of "loop-the-loop" on its path from the MC to the rear brake. Also, make sure the HB master has been bled properly before bleeding the rear brakes. Q. - what is the reason for the hydraulic HB? Does it replace the existing HB, or is it additional to it? If it replaces the existing HB, make sure the car is ALWAYS parked in gear, because a hydraulic HB will gradually lose pressure and slowly release the handbrake. (been there, done that! car ended up across the road, and reportedly just missed another car that drove past the driveway)

ROCKERAnd the oil usually comes to the throttle body via the turbo, not via the PCV valve.

DOUBLE. So you probably only have 10 BTDC.Most accurate is to insert a spark plug lead between #1 coil and #1 plug, and time it "old school". You are running good coils and fairly stock power, so I would suggest you open the gap back out to around 1mm.

The question was asked immediately after an exchange that addressed the exact same point. I don't think you need to be a rocket scientist to make the connection.

Check: - vacuum leaks - AAC valve

Have you considered that the ECU is delivering enough fuel to run a 2.5l engine, and you only have a 2l engine? It may also be affected by a possibly different set of pinouts to drive the injectors, ie only injectors on 1/2/3 are the same between RB20DET/RB25DE, and 4/5/6 are totally different pins, so 4/5/6 never get injection.

Don't think so. The PCV should connect directly to the RH (driver's) rocker cover (as Nissan installed it). The other side of the can then connects to the intake pipe, just in front of the turbo.

GT-R is nominally approx 310 (flywheel) kW, roughly twice the power of the GTSt, and considerably more power than the non-turbo GTSs. GT-R has AWD (some non-GT-Rs also have AWD). Have a read through the forum and you will more than likely find the answer to any question you might have about Skylines.

Even with restrictions, such as in VIC, you still see P-platers driving restricted vehicles. All the P-platers on SAU driving R33 GTSts, for instance. And you see them driving SS Commodes, XR6T Falcoons, etc. So don't assume that P-platers driving high performance / power vehicles means no restrictions.