blind_elk

Your OP suggested that it is a custom wiring job. You will need to have the injectors and coils removed from their fittings when you spin the CAS. They should activate in the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. If they don't fire in that order, re-wire the loom. (Stick the injectors in a bucket or similar to catch the petrol. You could also try and observe the spray pattern of each injector.) If, on the other hand, you have used a factory loom, then it should all connect up correctly. If the locating tab in the end of the exhaust cam is broken, then it is possible to put the CAS in in about 10 different ways.

OR a blocked radiator!!!!!

It's a stupid question, but hey, you wouldn't be the first - is the fuel connected to the rail correctly? Stick a pressure gauge in the inlet side of the rail. Are the coils and injectors firing in the correct order? Do you have compression? What ECU are you using? Have you got a good battery to start the engine with?

The L20ET uses a full EFI style distributor, with a built-in CAS. The cap is quite large, much larger than the standard R30 / L24E cap. I think you might find the cap from a 280ZX might be similar.

First up, you shouldn't be trying to adjust the throttle stop - it's epoxied for a reason. And you probably shouldn't be "completely cleaning" the throttle - usually causes havoc with idle in GT-Rs, could do the same in GTSTs. Back to the problem - have you checked the (ECU) engine temp sender? Have you checked that the throttle SWITCH is working correctly - measures 0 ohms at "throttle closed" across pins 1 / 2.

You shouldn't have any problems - the distance from the upper control arm to the axle is constant, so the clearance shouldn't vary as you raise / lower the car. Adjustable control arms merely move the arm in / out horizontally (adjust camber). You want to lower ANOTHER 5cm - how far is it lowered now? Because 5cm from stock is pretty much the limit.

Visited the Fox Car Collection yesterday. Arranged by NDSOC. Took this shot of one of the "Skyline WannaBe"s he has in the collection:

I would expect that the holes should be the LOWEST point. The flange face should be making contact with the block well before the holes get within a bull's roar of the block.

Drive it cold (but sensibly!). Most of the damage is done when the engine is cold. It will warm up much quicker than simply letting it idle.And you won't be coming back later asking why your fuel economy is so crap.

Carbon 34, OP is from NZ - cats are not a requirement there, I'm lead to believe.

Is the trans manual or auto? It could just be that it is burning more fuel, but not necessarily running rich. eg, maybe you have a binding brake.

Upgrade is to fit R32 GT-R rotors and R32 GT-R calipers to the front. The GTS4 caliper is similar to the GT-R, except the "ears" are shorter to accommodate the smaller rotor, and they don't need to be as wide, since the GTS4 only has 30mm thick rotors and GT-R has 32mm rotors. That is why you need to do rotors AND calipers.

Did you RTFM? Are the coils firing? You may have to modify the CAS to get it to work with the Wolf. If you bought the unit from Wolf, then I would talk to Wolf about how to set it up.

No, no, no, no, no. Starting at the PCV fitting, you should have: PCV to intake rocker cover (as per factory fittings) Intake rocker cover to exhaust rocker cover (as per factory fittings) exhaust rocker cover to catch can catch can to intake side of turbo. Ditch the stupid filter on the can (and plug the hole). So basically, the catch can replaces the hose that goes from the exhaust rocker cover down to the intake of the turbo. And the whole system remains sealed and does not vent to atmosphere. And you don't have problems with EPA.

Sway bars aren't springs. They make no contribution to the overall front to rear spring rate balance.

Are you going to run a "4" or a "4Plus"? I can help with a "4Plus" tune, but it's only for standard injectors.

Cheapest attempted solution would be to change the gearbox oil to a slightly heavier grade.

WTF?????? Put the @#$%$# thing together, the way it was designed to be when running. Then you might stand a chance of it starting. And if you think you have flooded the engine, use WOT while starting - don't release the throttle until you are certain the engine is actually running.

Have you checked the tension on the alternator belt? Lights dimming as you add more things to the electrical load suggests a slipping belt. Or the regulator in the alternator is stuffed, and you are overcharging the battery (and killing it).

Don't 33s have a boost gauge in the instrument cluster? And if the Microtech is anything like the Wolf, it should have a display of vac/boost on the handset.

Try connecting all the vacuum lines. The mixture is probably way too lean to ignite. Also, are the coils firing in the correct order?

Oil pressure depends on a number of factors. Some of the properties of the oil that affect oil pressure include how well it maintains viscosity under sheer (ie as it squeezes through the clearances), and how it does / does not handle extremes of heat (ie thermal breakdown). Have a read through the "Goods on Oils" thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/22458-the-goods-on-oils/ for more info.

The turbo shouldn't be producing ANY boost at highway cruise. I would be checking the cam timing is correct. And just because the CAS is put back "in the same place" doesn't mean that the base timing is correct. Should always check with a timing light.

Because you are making more power than standard, you might like to try a heat range 6 plug, gapped down a bit, say 0.9 .

Pretty certain RB20s don't have a fuel / boost cut mechanism. Other than the ceramic wheel shattering if you consistently run more than about 14psi boost.