blind_elk

No pics, sorry (it has been over 10 years since I swapped them out for Kings!). Anyway, checked free lengths for reference - rears (I think) = 330mm, fronts = 350mm

Have a set of lowered springs that came out of my R32 GTS4. The springs have not been cut, they are the same rate as factory, just they have been lowered by resetting the height. Will probably also fit GTS(t). $100 + postage.

TRS brand race harness, 4-point, detachable. Complete with eyelets. $70 + postage.

It would mean more to them if you had a "petition".

No, more likely doesn't like the 7 heat range. And the miss over 6k will more likely be the gap.You can close the gap down on your Bosch plugs to eliminate the miss.

Find a new mechanic - any mechanic worth his salt should be able to give the car a rudimentary alignment so that the car is half driveable. I doubt anything has been damaged, but then again ... You should be more concerned about undue wear on your tyres. But if you haven't been caning the car, then the tyres should be pretty much ok.

I'd suggest put the original heat range 6s back in, close the gap (.8 - .9).

This should be the one to adjust. It can't be totally covered by the dust seal, otherwise the rod wouldn't be able to be pushed by the pedal.Very worst case, pull the instrument cluster out to get better access to the pushrod.

Which gasket (inlet / exhaust)? If inlet, maybe you swapped two injector connectors. Did you clean the manifold face and head surface properly before reassembly?

FAQs, fyi: http://www.aomc.asn.au/cpsnewfaq.htm In particular Q6, Q15

A leak in the exhaust will sound more like "raspberries", not hissing. "Hissing" will be an air leak somewhere in the induction system.

You probably need to loosen the pivot bolt.

You should be running higher pressures in the front - reduces understeer. I'm running 38 all round (only because of AWD setup) on a 235/45-17.

What's on them now?

According to the dba website, rears are the same, fronts are different (32 is smaller diameter).

When I went to school, 1989 + 25 was 2014. So, the car will not be eligible this year (2012) or next year (2013), but may be eligible in 2015, which will entitle you to drive the car on 45 or 90 days per year, as recorded in a logbook. If SAU has not become a signatory to the scheme, NDSOC is already a signatory, but you will need to maintain your NDSOC club membership, and you will be required to attend at least 6 club events each year (not necessarily with the car).

Auto or manual?

Is everything connected the way it was before you replaced the boss / steering wheel?

Surely the person you bought it from has the software. I have v4.49 on 2 1.4Mb floppies (dates it for sure!). And I have v4.72 installed, but can't find the original download (.zip, iirc). v4.72 displays the graphical as well as the tabular maps. v4.72 installed is a bit over 5Mb. It might zip down to something emailable.

2 x 87 would have been my next guess

The small Bosch relays come in a variant that has 2 outputs, ie 2 x 85 (or maybe its 86). Makes wiring much easier, as the only duplicated wire is that from the relay to the fan(s).

Pretty much regardless of the boost level, you will still see "rich" because the ECU calculates the air volume from the AFM, and matches the fuel using its internal air-fuel maps. Unless you have a turbo that can pull more air than the stock AFM can measure, you should never see the AFR go "lean" at WOT (on a stock ECU). The change in voltage of the stock O2 sensor is extremely rapid around the stoichiometric point. In a matter of perhaps 0.1 voltage units (maybe even less), the AFR will go from perhaps 13:1 to perhaps 17:1, totally missing 14.7:1. This is why you will see the gauge dance around the stoichiometric point - the change is so rapid that the ECU cannot make fuel corrections quickly enough to maintain a stoichiometric mixture. So, as mad082 stated, if you try to tune using a AFR gauge, by the time you have got enough boost that the engine runs lean with that boost, you will be on the wrong side of stoichiometric, and will very quickly destroy the engine.

niZmO_Man, Larger rears shouldn't upset ATTESSA. It's only when the rears are a smaller rolling diameter that ATTESSA cracks it. sultanaz, There are innumerable threads asking a similar question. The majority will recommend having the same wheel / tyre combo all round. If you want to run offset wheels, then you shouldn't have purchased an AWD Nissan. That said, you can do some calculations to find a F/R tyre size combination that won't upset ATTESSA.

Last time I blew a heater hose, I ended up warping the head (this was the RB20DET). I reckon your lady's car has done the same. A compression test should confirm - 2 & 3 will be very low compression.

This question, or variants thereof, have been covered a zillion times on the forum. Search. (BTW, its ATTESSA) And, there's no need to shout.