blind_elk

They apparently also have a habit of engine oil tracking down the loom and crapping out the ECU.

Pretty certain last time I had to replace a globe, the globes are fitted from the rear. Only time I had to remove the assembly was when the adjuster crapped itself.You should be able to get 100W globes for the hi-beams.

The replacement tyre has to be the same - EXACTLY the same - as what you have now. It makes the vehicle roadworthy if you mix tyres on the same axle.

Can someone please explain the following (for Melbourne): November 2009 was the hottest November on record (ave daily temp 27.1). Prior to this, the hottest November was in 1862 (25.5). What happened in 1862 that made it so hot? It couldn't possibly have been anthropogenic activity. And if it wasn't anthropogenic activity, why should we believe that the most recent hot November is the result of anthropogenic activity? Until 2009, the hottest day recorded in Melbourne was way back in 1939. Why did it take so long? This last May was the COLDEST May in 41 years. (thank goodness for global warming, I say!) If climate change were genuine, then many of the months would have had their hottest days or highest averages in recent years. They haven't. The earth has been a lot warmer in the past; and it has been a lot colder. Its all part of a cycle of change. BTW, I'm not a non-believer, I'm a sceptic. I became more sceptical when the soothsayers stopped referring to "global warming" and started referring to "climate change".

Mine - fairly stock - produced 115 awkW (145 rwkW), so your 144 awkW is a pretty fair improvement. You are probably not aware that the GTS4 does not run permanent AWD, unlike Subarus and Lancers. It only engages the front drive wheels under certain conditions - do a search to discover how the Nissan ATTESSA system works. I don't understand this desire to disable the front drive. Frankly, if you don't want the AWD, why buy a car with it.

Don't they print that info on the paper wrapping the rings? And, I'm afraid you can't just buy 1 ring. Have to buy the whole set! (could be wrong, though)

I believe pipe diameters are quoted as "inside diameter". So a 3.5" pipe has an internal diameter = 3.5".

In the R32s, its usually a problem in the switch. Wouldn't be surprised if R34s develop the same problem.

This statement is self-contradicting. "turn over" and "crank" are the same thing, so you must mean it will crank but not start.In any case, the battery is on its last legs. The ECU requires a minimum voltage to stay alive (about 7V, I think). You may be using so much battery voltage just to crank the engine that there isn't sufficient to fire up the ECU, so the engine doesn't start. It could all be the result of a loose fan belt. Check the fan belt tension. Then get a jump start. Then go and get a new battery.

Run the engine number through FAST: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/

If you have a lose battery cable, then you won't recharge the battery properly. Then after starting, the alternator starts generating squillions of amps to try and recharge the battery; the ECU sees this as a problem, and the engine runs like crap. Removing the cable simply resets the ECU, and after restarting it runs ok because the engine is up to operating temp. It probably started doing it because the battery is getting a bit long in the tooth. Try a new battery. PS - drive the car from cold. You are simply wasting fuel and causing additional damage to the engine by waiting for it to warm up before you start driving it.

Must be Superman (has X-ray vision) if he can tell the condition without opening the unit! You just need to take off the rear cover plate to inspect the innards. Then find another diff specialist to confirm or deny the condition of the crown wheel and pinion - these are the only bits that need to be in OK condition.

Frankly, I wouldn't be worrying about running so lean at idle. It will not damage the engine at all, because there is virtually no load on the engine. As for the popping, have to set up the EMS to shut off the injectors when the throttle closes (such as when you coast down, or change gears)?

That probably isn't helping.

Which 3 aren't firing?

When I installed Bilsteins on my GTS4, I used the top groove for the circlip. I'm using Kings lowered springs.

Check you haven't bent any of the pins in the connector on the coil.

You can also cancel the Vic registration, then purchase a temporary permit (certainly available from VicRoads, maybe from NSW RTA) so you can drive the car back to NSW and go through the rego process there.

You will be able to swap the GTS4 gears (crown wheel and pinion) into the GT-R diff. But you must do BOTH - you can't just swap the crown wheel OR the pinion. There wil not be any problem with the GT-R centre being mechanical LSD and the GTS4 being a viscous LSD. In fact, you are probably better off with the GT-R's mechanical centre,

Will have NOTHING to do with the O2 sensor (doesn't anyone read threads that cover O2 sensor operation?) Sounds like an AAC problem. But also get the injectors cleaned.

You shouldn't have to change the flywheel when you purchase a new clutch.

Any gearbox that attaches to an RB engine will attach to any other RB engine.

Those aren't Z rims, Andrew. And the carbies aren't technically 260Z carbies. They appear to be genuine SUs. 260Z carbies aren't "tuneable".

Most ECUs will require a TPS signal so it knows: 1. Throttle closed so the ECU can control "injector shutdown on overrun". 2. Throttle closed so the ECU knows when to activate "idle" programming. 3. (sometimes) when the throttle has been snapped open (acceleration enrichment). BTW, I'm running Wolf, and use the TPS for all of the above.

$30 ?!?!?!?!? Find a (home) building site, grab a couple of offcuts of 8" x 2" timber. Or go down to Bunnings, and fork out about $11 for a length of 50mm treated pine sleeper - then cut to length.