blind_elk

Having a thermo fan running permanently basically defeats the purpose of having a thermo fan. Instead of the normal fan placing load on the engine, the alternator is now placing load on the engine, as it tries to produce sufficient current to drive the thermo fan. The only time you need the thermo fan running is when the engine gets above some arbitrary temperature setting (can be as much as 10 deg C above normal operating temp). Ordinarily, movement of the car provides sufficient airflow through the radiator to control the engine's operating temperature to the thermostatted temperature.

Last time I looked under the back of my R30 (although it was a while ago), I don't recall seeing a panhard rod. To the best of my knowledge, panhard rods are only useful on live axle assemblies, like R31 (sedans); R30s are IRS.

If the odometer is correct, then all the gearing (tyre sizes, diff ratios) are correct. The speedo works off a magnet spinning inside a metal "cap". A spring controls the "cap" from just going on and on. With age, I reckon, the spring loses its tension, and lets the "cap" rotate further than it should, thus indicating a higher apparent speed.

Not for under $500. Depending "where" in Melbourne: Traction Tyres, Rowville Centreline, Thomastown

Bad choice of words - should have said 'disconnected'.Simply disconnect the electrical plug from the AAC valve, that will "unplug" it from the ECU. Put it all back to "factory" first, then do the necessary adjustments.

It would help if we knew where you lived to recommend a good suspension engineer. Anyway, if you want cornering stability, then sway bars are the best bang for your buck. Look at Whiteline bars. (there was also a group buy on suspension bits).

First pic is the VVT solenoid. If the connection was loose, it might explain the problems youare experiencing. #3 is most likely the TPS (just the throttle body is around the other way from a normal Skyline). Sorry, can't say about #2.

Doh! Did I ever say it was on a 2WD dyno? I had it on a 4WD dyno, bozo. How else do you think I was able to quote a awkW figure? (I pulled the fuse to run it in RWD mode) I don't see your point. Should I have more kw? And WTF has wheelspinning got to do with the price of fish at the egg market?

Sidebar - then how do you measure awkw? Because the rears are rotating on the drum and the fronts are stationary, ATTESSA thinks you have wheelspin, so engages the fronts, transmitting power to the front roller (of a 4WD dyno). When I had the RB20, I had it on a 4WD dyno, in AWD and RWD modes - there was about 25% more rwkw than awkw.

That's ATTESSA fluid, HICAS fluid is in the steering pump. Doesn't hurt to swap tyres F->R every 5000k or so, just to keep the wear even. Of course, if you keep smokin' the rears, you will need to do it more often. But then there is a solution to that... For the final time, it's working as Nissan engineers decreed it should work. Why it didn't do it before, I have NFI, but it is working correctly now!

Oil level in the sump and oil pessure are totally unrelated (until you don't have enough oil in the sump to pump it around!) The oil pressure is a function of the oil itself. A 50 or 60 grade oil is too "heavy" for a RB25, you should be using a 30 or 40, ie 0-30 / 5-30 / 5-40 / 10-40.

I've done that dozens of times - never blown a box. I remember once in my 240Z, taking off on a slight uphill, with tandem trailer and garage hoist - in 3rd gear! Didn't blow up the gearbox, though. So? When you get to 10 times that, then start crowing. I have a RB25DET in my 32 GTS4, and it has pushed 180kW out through all 4 (probably 250 out the rear). It has a HD clutch and lightweight flywheel. The box is still going strong. (maybe GTS4 boxes are a bit stronger, but they were still only designed to handle a RB20DET).I used to have a 180B SSS. It was my daily, my race car, my rally car, my motorkhana car. It ran twin 45 Webers. In 300k of hammering, the only failure was the 1st gear layshaft bearing collapsed. My experience is that Nissan gearboxes are close to indestructible. I find it difficult to believe that your gearboxes have been rebuilt with faulty components 7 times. I'm inclined to side with SteveL about your driving style being a significant contributor to the problem (regardless of what your previous cars did).

You need to check battery voltage while the engine is idling and at elevated revs (around 2k). If that doesn't reveal anything, you need to start looking for something that is drawing current when everything is shut down.

ATTESSA uses the ABS sensors - that is where the fault is.

Then I restate that it appears to be working exactly as designed. I have no idea why it didn't (appear to) work before. As for your new suspension, if anything it would cause an error in ATTESSA. If the AWD light comes on, then you have an error, and you will not get torque to the fronts, no matter how hard you try.

Then how could he possibly issue a RWC when the shock absorber is dead?

You need to have the idle control unplugged from the ECU, otherwise the ECU just keeps making corrections to the AAC valve position. That defeats the whole purpose of the exercise. Have you also "unadjusted" the butterflies?

What about the tyres? Same manufacture? Same design? Same width? Same profile?Tried swapping wheels F->R?

Not opinion, fact. Read "Forced Induction Performance Tuning", by A. Graham Bell, pages 199 - 202Anyway guys, Takushi knows it all. We can't seem to advise him one way or the other, so let's leave him alone in his vast knowledge

Take off the lamp cover, see if it works. I have a similar problem, where the lamp "fails" when the cover is in position, but works fine without the cover.

Sounds perfectly normal. The acceleration G-sensor is also a deceleration G-sensor. There is also input from the TPS to ATTESSA. Were the new tyres fitted to all 4 rims?

That makes it a whole lump of WOFTAM.If you back off the fuel pressure to compensate for the additional fuel delivery, you will not get the correct spray pattern, and therefore atomisation, required for a good clean burn. A mechanic would know that.

You shouldn't need to adjust the throttle stop screw. Adjust the idle speed via the AAC adjusting screw.

If you are accelerating, then ATTESSA will get a signal from the longitudinal G-sensor (and maybe the TPS) and apply torque to the fronts. If you are simply cruising at >50% throttle, then you have a problem if you are getting front torque (sorry, don't know how to solve it if that's the case).

Sounds like a faulty temp sender. The ECU thinks the engine is still cold, so it adds lots of fuel for a "cold start"