blind_elk

The 48:11 means there are 48 teeth on the crown wheel, and 11 on the pinion. Which is 4.364:1 . And I'm guessing 'LS' means 'Limited Slip'. The previous owner has obviously changed the gearing for some reason.

I've never had any problem when getting some opposite lock in the GTS4. The warning I got about HICAS is that if you back off in a corner, HICAS will turn you around. If you keep the power feeding into the rear, you won't have any problems.

1. If you are running a R200 type diff, then any R200 diff (GT-R / GTSt / Stagea) should fit. 2. If you fit a 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, you will get better acceleration. In general, you would lose top speed, but it is possible you may get better top speed because the engine can more easily turn the rear axles through the lower ratio. But you will be revving the engine higher, regardless. 3. I would think that a 3.9 should be more than adequate for a RB20 in a car designed for a CA18 / SR20 If you are happy with the performance now, I'd say leave it be.

The igniter is prone to "I don't like the heat, I'm taking a siesta" when it gets a bit older. Try swapping it for a known ok unit. And I don't understand this "lift the back of the bonnet" to overcome overheating. It must be a high pressure region at the base of the windscreen (that was the theory of the 'reverse scoops' on A9X/L34 and Falcon GT Group C cars). So while driving along, you would be forcing air back into the engine bay. That means a high pressure region inside the engine bay, which means you can't get air to pass through the radiator. Which means the coolant isn't cooled (as much).

25 Erin St 9428 4751 He's listed as "Orthopedic Surgeon", so he might not be your answer. Still, no harm in trying.

CORTISONE

How about some up-rated suspension (sway bars in particular) so the car handles with the increased power?

I had a protruding disc a few years ago. But took about 2 years to work out what the problem was. Tried xrays, physio, chiro, acupuncture. Nothing, not even pain killers, worked. I would often come home from work and curl up in the foetal position on the lounge floor for about 2 hours. Bloody chiro nearly broke one of my ribs making an "adjustment" to my back. Didn't find out until a surgeon sent me for a mri - showed disc protruding from L3 L4 vertebra and jutting right into the junction of the sciatic nerve (runs down the leg) and the spinal cord. Much better after having the disc trimmed. Most back / neck pain seems to be caused by nerve damage. Usually a pinched nerve in the neck. My surgeon was Michael Johnson. He's in Richmond, just behind Epworth.

Can probably help you out with a "loaner". It hasn't been used for a while, but I'm sure it worked perfectly before the engine was dismantled. Western suburbs. PM for location if interested.

Do you want it or not?

155?

Just looking at the ACL site, it shows that the RB25 / RB26 pistons are different in 2 areas: Crown volume - RB26 = 16.3cc, RB25 = 11.5cc Comp Height - RB26 = 30.3mm, RB25 = 31.3mm I think the Comp Height difference means you will smash a RB25 piston into the head of a RB26, because the piston sits higher on the gudgeon pin / small end. I would imagine most others are the same. And RB265 / RB26 have different stroke, so you probably can't use the same rods either.

How are you planning to compress the springs? You can only do it by: 1. Cut the spring to shorten it. (There is absolutely nothing wrong with this approach, as long as the spring can remain captive at full suspension droop. The downside is that you increase the stiffness of the spring.) 2. Reset the height under heat. The problem is probably that the springs you have are too stiff. If you got a set of slightly softer springs, then the car would sit lower.

PM me for location

Racemate (competition) driving shoes. They are equivalent to about a normal size 9. In reasonable condition. $50 (delivery at buyer's expense).

At "ON", the FPR "sees" atmospheric pressure. At idle, the FPR "sees" vacuum, and the fuel pressure should be less than 40 psi. The FPR should adjust the fuel pressure so that the rail pressure is some constant value above manifold pressure. It could be a faulty FPR. Or the check valve on the pump is faulty in some way.

450kg capacity. Easily cope with a RB25 block. Melbourne. $50 - delivery extra at buyer's expense.

On each unit, I recall only having to remove the adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt.

I would expect it to say if you shouldn't re-use the bolts. Since it doesn't say not to, then I can only assume it is safe to re-use the bolts. I've re-used them on numerous engines (RBs and Ls) and never encountered a problem.

Are you running corrosion inhibitor in the cooling system? You might have a crook water pump - the vanes rust away because of not using the corrosion inhibitor additive. An article in the latest HPI suggests huge radiators are a waste.

Mine is actually only "parked off street" (no room in the garage ATM lol). Shannons say ok. I'm also doing it under my NDSOC membership - don't know if that makes a difference. You have to ask to talk to the manager, not just have the pleb "I'll talk to my manager"

Of course, my bad (dementia must be catching up LOL)

The clip holds the thrust carrier onto the fork.

Try replacing the fuel filter.

Call them again, ask to speak to one of the managers. Plebs can't override what the computer says, managers can.