blind_elk

Autobarn, Repco, Supercheap - any auto parts store should have them.

Can't answer about the VCT solenoid. Injector cleaner is basically a maintenance additive.You really need to get the injectors sonic cleaned (which entails removing them from the rail) if you hope to remove any contaminants. Then use cleaner to maintain the cleanliness. The O2 sensor has a built-in heater so that it can sit further down the exhaust system. It relies on the heater and the exhaust gases to maintain the correct operating temperature. The sensor is doing exactly what it should, assuming the engine is under constant load / revs. Any other condition, particularly acceleration, and you (and the ECU) can ignore anything the O2 sensor says or does (it will generally show close to 1V under acceleration).

Your 2nd pic - "100% Plumb back" - is almost correct. Just forget about the 2 lines going to the PCV valve and it will be good.

With differing widths, you will have problems matching rolling diameters front and rear. That will upset ATTESSA. Same size tyre on a wider wheel will result in a slightly reduced rolling diameter. That will upset ATTESSA.

Word of advice reNEG - in all my 35+ years of motoring, I can't recall a time when I had to consistently bounce an engine on its rev limiter. There is nothing cool about it. Treat the engine nicely, and it will behave itself. Abuse it (by "limitering" it), and it will bite you.

TPS is at least needed (recommended) for acceleration functions. And for Injector Overrun.

These settings don't necessarily apply to a Wolf 3D. (Wolf use MAP sensing) reNEGaDeR32, Talk to Steve at Advance Engine Management (Wolf manufacturer). They are in Melbourne.

Yeah, knew they were different, just couldn't remember which was which (been a while since I crawled under the back of my GTS4).

Which model are they supposed to fit? If R32, then it's likely they are GT-R / GTS4. The fronts are shorter, because they fit in a tighter space.

I've got a RB25DET in my 32, and the temp gauge has always sat around the halfway mark (even 40+ with A/c on full blast). You (and your friend) might have a sticky thermostat that doesn't open / close smoothly. I don't think it will hurt the replace it, anyway.

You've probably run out of A/C refrigerant.

First silly Q - if you have disconnected the battery, then which terminals are you measuring voltage across? What do you mean by "alternator takes this charge"? The alternator "makes" charge.

Check EVERY SINGLE JOIN in the intake plumbing - one of them has popped.

Most council recycle stations will accept used motor oils. Contact you local council for details.

First thing to do is move coils in 1, 2 & 4 to 3, 5 & 6, see how it runs. If the coils in 1/2/4 aren't firing, then it's the igniter or loom, or maybe spark plugs; if 3/5/6, then it's the coils.

If it's mainly city driving, I would doubt the O2 sensors have much input into your fuel economy, since you would have very few situations where you are on constant load / throttle. If you want to confirm O2 sensor problems, try going for a cruise - repeat CRUISE - up the highway to Albury - if you still have crap economy, then the O2 sensors may be faulty. Your tuner wil be tuning AFRs for high load situations, not cruise. If the sensors are not mounted on the upper side of the dump pipes, then they will poop themselves quite quickly (so I believe).

www.dba.com.au

Why aren't you running the backing plate? What could be so important that you would risk the valve timing being off and a valve punching a hole through your brand new pistons? Use the backing plate - it's there for a reason.

The wheels drive the rollers, the rollers don't drive the wheels.So, if you start "driving" on the dyno, the rear wheels start driving the (rear) rollers but the front wheels are stationary. WHEEL SPIN! There would be no G-forces involved, because the car is stationary. I've never had the G-sensor disabled when AWD dynoing my (R32) GTS4. Not even when 2WD dynoing (pulled fuse) it on a AWD dyno.

Good news! http://www.theage.com.au/national/sunshine...90227-8jqh.html

Stagea is 4.083:1 (49:12?). (R32) GTS4 is 4.375:1 (35:8)

Calipers are on the right way (bleed nipple on top)? I know it's a stupid question, but ... You replaced the master cylinder? In my 240Z, I did the same, there was a little rubber block inside the booster. It sits between the master pushrod and the booster pushrod. It dropped into the booster. Had good pedal pressure, until vacuum was applied to the booster, ie start engine.

You have probably warped the head. Most good repairers will not touch the head now (ie try and straighten it). Time for a new motor.

My comment about the Golden Rule was perhaps a bit cynical. You are innocent until proven guilty. If you contest the charge, it is up to the police to PROVE that the car is a high-powered vehicle. If Vicroads don't have the data, then the charge cannot be proven. Even better if you can counter their claim. Simply get the car weighed. It should cost much less than the cost of the fine.

I have the answer (well, for me at least). I checked my "Certificate of Registration", which is the part of the renewal immediately below the sticker. It has an area labeled "TARE" - that's basically kerb weight. Mine says "1400". So, according to Vicroads, my R32 GTS4 weights 1.4T. At 158kW, that means 112.86 kW/T. If that's not less than 125, I don't know what is.