blind_elk

Also in Lonsdale St this morning. God it looks mean!

Try overhauling the calipers.

If the red-top is anything like the silver-top, then the CAS should align to a key on the end of the exhaust cam (a process which is described in too many threads to count!).

Unless you want the "high idle" problem, leave them alone. You can't see them so they don't need to look "pretty".

The NGK site says recommended plug = PFR6A-11 (Platinum) Iridium equivalent = BCPR6EIX-11

Google (that will get you to ngkspark.com.au)

There are numerous threads detailing how the ATTESSA AWD system works. Try reading them to determine if yours behaves the same or not.

Remove the rear cover plate - the ratio should be stamped onto the crown wheel. Will be 49:12 if it's a stagea diff. GT-R is more like 37:9

The first number basically tells you how quickly the oil will be circulated from a cold start. You need a 0 or 10 there. The W isn't all that important, but it's hard to avoid. It means "Winter", but I'm not sure exactly how it works. The second number tells you how well protected the engine is while running. It depends on the engine as to what number you need, but the Nissan spec is 30. You could go to a 40 if you like. The other bit you need is the SAE specification. I think it's up to "SM" - anything above "SJ" should be ok. This is basically a measure of all the additives, and how well they should work. Synthetic is probably the way to go, but a semi-synthetic or full mineral will still work. Stick with the brand names - Mobil 1, Castrol, Penrite, etc - and you should be ok. Avoid the "generic" brands - K-Mart, Woolworths, Target and the like. The regular Woolies Catalogue can offer good prices for oil.

Where is the other end of the hose connected? And that arm is adjustable - could be producing too much boost for the ECU to handle.

I installed it because I had fitted a RB25DET into my GTS4, and the engine had more than enough torque that the 4.375 ratio was unnecessary. The engine was from a Stagea, which gave me the front diff, so I swapped a rear diff in as well.

And what happens to the torque / power curve?

Your mechanic is basically correct - if the clutch assembly isn't aligned correctly, then the gearbox just will not go back on. Did you disassemble the driveshaft during this swap? Or is it a different driveshaft from the original?

If the coils are good, then swap the spark plugs around, then repeat the coil test. And do the same sort of test on the injectors.

The Stagea diff I used was a 4.08 ratio (which is why I used it for my 32 GTS4, to replace a 4.375). The loom might have been for ABS. Don't know about the hoses. I'm guessing you want to use it in your 33. I would suggest that the simplest solution would be to just transfer the crown wheel and pinion into your existing R33 diff / centre.

Sounds like you have a clutch that is starting to slip.

GTS4 diff ratio = 4.375:1 As SteveL has said, GT-R / GTS4 are basically a RWD driveline. They employ an active AWD system which responds to G-sensors, ABS sensors (for wheel spin) and TPS (throttle) inputs, to determine the optimum distribution of front and rear drive. The maximum drive to the front is 50% of the available power. The aftermarket controllers modify the various input signals before passing them to the ATTESSA controller, thus fooling the controller into thinking that something slightly different is happening. The drive can be converted to 100% RWD by removing the drive shaft between the centre differential and the front differential (or by removing the fuse, or by tweaking the aftermarket controller). The engine uses a timing belt, which needs to be changed at 100k intervals.

Simple solution to avoid any prospect of getting your car crushed: DON'T DRIVE LIKE A F****N TOOL. There's no rocket science involved.

If it's a hydraulic activation, is there any fluid in the master cylinder?

Have you checked wheel bearings?

Yes, the front plate will be visible and accessible from underneath. Held on by 8(?) 14mm(?) bolts. Don't forget to drain the oil first!. If you are lucky, you might be able to see the teeth numbers that are stamped on the crown wheel (because it will be difficult to count the teeth on the pinion).

And which component. Is it the coil pack? Maybe a dud plug. A loose or broken wire in the loom. A bit of detective work would be a great help. And it ain't rocket science.

See what you've done, God! I warned you this would happen when you invented the O2 sensor - now the O2 sensor is the cause of every single problem in the modern EFI engine! heyhey! - have you bothered to analyse which - if any - cylinder is misbehaving at low rpms? Have you checked that the VVT solenoid is working?

Try disconnecting the temperature sender to the ECU. If it makes no difference, then it's likely the sender has failed, and the ECU thinks the engine is still cold. Warm engine doesn't need gallons of fuel to start.

There you go, classic answer - RTFM