blind_elk

That will be the starter solenoid clicking in and out. Somehow voltage to hold it IN is being lost. The solution is to wire the solenoid through a relay - use the existing trigger wire to trip the relay which then provides direct battery voltage to the solenoid.

Use the "Alan key" style nuts. Available at wheel shops, maybe at Autobarn, Repco, etc.

On what pretence? It's a spark plug. The air/fuel mixture doesn't look at the spark plug and think "he's running R5671a spark plugs - I think I'll generate 20kW extra". It's a spark plug - it ignites the air/fuel mixture after it receives a huge jolt of electricity. It's the same size jolt of electricity, irrespective of the type or manufacturer of the spark plug.It really doesn't matter what number is stamped on the ceramic, as long as the plug is designed to fit the application. You will be wasting your money, IMHO.

If the fronts are spinning under these conditions, then my opinion is that the ATTESSA is working. What does the torque-split gauge say? AFAIK, the front diff is open, so it would be possible to stop one side, and the other side would continue to be driven. Is that what happens? If you remove the fuse (in a R33), the car goes to limp mode (I believe) - that makes it impossible to run it on a 2WD dyno.

Resetting will put it to a default / factory setting (this is of courcse assuming you are running the factory ECU). The adjustment on the ECU is a fine adjustment. The adjustment you need is on the base of the AAC valve. Did you replace the gasket on the AAC valve - high idle is indicative of an air leak.

No, cutting the cable 2-3 cm too short is the expensive part!Joining cables is fraught with danger. Just replace it with the correct length cable. Any good auto parts shop should carry the right gauge cable to build one. It begs the question - why did the clamps need changing?

You will probably want at least 34 front, 32 rear (cold - always measure pressures cold). In the wet, add another 2 psi all round. (45 is way too much for normal driving. Generally, servo gauges get the hell mistreated out of them, so buy your own tyre gauge, and use it to measure tyre pressure. It may not be correct, but it will be consistent. (although the digital BP units appear to be pretty accurate)

I've fitted a Stagea gearset into my R32 GTS4 diff. Swapping the gearset, you keep the centre - they are both "R200" diffs. Then the output shafts fit (they "plug into" the centre), and the halfshafts work. And the whole assembly fits into the cradle. No swapping external components (back plates), no worrying about half shafts. Bit of a worry about the "diff place" - swapping viscous to helical is swapping the centre, AFAIK. Talk to Steve at Speed Technology.

Check volts at the ECU - they need at least about 7V to stay alive.

Swap the crown wheel & pinion from the S15 diff to your R33 diff. I think Speed Technology in Mitcham sell KAAZ centres.

If the hex part is still attached, then just use the spark plug socket to remove it. Might try a soak with WD40 first to try and loosen it.

Eucalyptus Oil

Just swap over the crown wheel and pinion.

Learn threshhold braking.I've only ever activated the ABS in my 32 GTS4 maybe twice, once on the track.

They are tuned to run on 98. 95 requires different timing, so running a 98-tuned engine on 95 is not going to be efficient.

AU onwards only.NOT Suby (they are 5x100)

I had a similar failure. I believe the unit was replaced with a GT-R unit; no problems with the operation of ABS. You are more likely to lock the wheels with good pads, and I would expect "chromies" would make no difference. Why do you want to lock the brakes anyway? I rarely activate the ABS on mine, even during spirited driving. Just bleed them in the normal course of events; I usually leave the ABS unit until last.

The TPS setup you have looks correct. Is your new ECU a PnP type? You have probably lost the TPS signal to the ATTESSA ECU.

Pretty sure your 91 octane is different to our 91 octane. Ours is 91 RON, I think yours is MON + RON/2 or something similar. As long as you run it on the highest available octane rating, you should be ok.

Might as well have run it with no oil. That volume wouldn't even come up to the oil pickup.

It will be a twin-filament bulb - 1 filament for the tail light and 1 filament for the brake light. The brake light filament has pooped itself. Get a new bulb. NFI how to get at the bulb, but it probably won't be all that difficult if you look carefully.

External fuel pumps use the fuel passing through them to keep cool. I would imagine that the internal pumps would be the same. And why doesn't Nissan warn about keeping the tank more than half full?

Sorry, think I've misunderstood. You know you have ABS, but it doesn't work - is that what you are saying? Then you can ignore my second comment. And the first thing to check when anything electrical goes haywire (like warning lights coming on) is the fuse for the device indicated by the warning light. I doubt the "fiddling" has caused the light to come on - purely co-incidental.

If the ABS light is on, then the ABS is in error mode, and the ABS won't work! Check under the bonnet - rear passenger side, big metal cube with lots of pipes coming out of it (looks like a Borg), that's the ABS module.

Ok, neglected to say it has a sports steering wheel, with a fully enclosed, double-wire button. I'm pretty sure the terminals on the back of the button are properly sheathed from making contact with the steering column. So I don't think it's the button, but you should never totally rule out anything. I'm leaning to the fact that the horn is 35 years old, and sits out in the weather. I'm going to try a newer horn (off my 32), and see if the fuse lasts a bit longer. Then I'll try inserting a relay. DR_JOSH, unfortunately there are too many idiots out there, doing absolutely stupid things, that it's almost impossible to NOT use the horn.