blind_elk

First off, the air temperature sensor is dead (or unplugged)- indicated by the air temp being -46C. Don't understand how you can have vacuum but no load. Get it to Alex to sort out.

It will be much simpler and cheaper to take it back and get the correct model for the 34.

Nothing to do with oil (oil burns blue). The black is carbon particles as a result of the petrol not burning properly. The fuel/air mixture is rich, which is the protection that stops the engine pooping itself.

Take it out - it isn't necessary. The best TT is the one between your ears!

To bleed a master with no nipple, get pressure and crack the pipe union.

http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/products/page/query/plu/1709/

The load is on the other wheel, and the sway bar is holding this side up.Trust me, seen it before - so jack the whole front up.

Wolf don't just let any Tom, Dick or Harry tune their systems. They have specialists, trained by Wolf, to do the job. Find the nearest from the website, and get them to sort out your problem. (It sounds a bit like too much fuel around the idle settings, maybe timing, maybe acceleration enrichment, but I'm no expert)

Both front wheels off the ground?

Wolf really needs to be tuned on a dyno. Find your nearest dealer at www.wolfems.com.au

Still looking, guys (& gals). Any leads most gratefully accepted.

It's all bolted together. Remove the split pin holding the pushrod to the pedal, then remove the pivot pin. Unbolt the master cylinder (in the engine bay, no need to disconnect hydraulics), there's a nut inside, up behind the instrument cluster.

Have you checked the fan belt tightness?

I would have thought there must be nearly twice as many as that

Which "bracket"? I'm guessing you are referring to the pedal box.

Battery!!

I always thought "kickdown" is when you punch the throttle pedal, the (auto) transmission kicks down a gear. So it's quite possible that the extra cable is to do with the auto trans.

Try swapping the rims F<->B

What size are the new rims? What size tyres on the new rims?

Of course it flat lines - it's hit a limit. It's doing exactly what Nissan designed it to do. It protects the engine from idiots. Actually Daniel, the problem is somewhere between the left ear and the right ear - I think it's called a vacuum.

+1 for the advanced driving course. My R32 has ABS - and I think I have only activated the ABS twice in the 9 years I have owned it (and one of those times was on the track). As far as I'm concerned, ABS is for idiots who don't know how to drive (as distinct from those who have a licence). Tell your dad that ABS is not the be-all-and-end-all of a safe car - it's the nut holding the wheel that counts.

They are FOG lights - for use in FOG conditions. The colour doesn't matter. (but I believe the colour is in the lense)

Isn't it 1 tooth = 15 crankshaft degrees?The crank does 2 revolutions for each revolution of the camwheel. So 48 camwheel teeth per 720 crankshaft degrees -> 15 crankshaft degrees per camwheel tooth. If I'm correct (I've been wrong before), I wouldn't be worrying about it. If you bring the engine to TDC (as per the crank indicator), then the cams would be out (advanced) by 1/3 tooth (2.5 cam degrees, 5 crankshaft degrees), which is close to the adjustment applied on adjustable camwheels.

Just to be sure, as you rotate the crank pulley in the normal direction (L->R, when looking from in front of the engine bay), the first line to line up with the timing mark on the crankcase cover will be 30BTDC, then 25, then 20, etc.

Australian Precision Engine Parts in Wantirna South (Melb) - talk to Bill - (03)9887 1299 They can make a set for you.