blind_elk

Pretty much

Nissan P/N - 22100 S6701 (D6K9-042X04). Ign Module = E12-80. And it has a rotor button and cap. Don't have a use for it now, as I have installed a L20ET with a Wolf 3D. (can't immediately find the "spare", assuming I do have one - still trying to sort out after moving houses.)

If changing the O2 sensor would fix it, I would have included it. For the 23,965,351st time, the ECU only responds to the O2 sensor at constant load / throttle. And there is very little of that in city driving. So changing the O2 sensor will have very little impact on fuel economy in city driving.

So do I (disagree)! You can check the oil level any time you like, as long as the engine isn't running, and the car is on level ground. If the engine has been running, leave it for as little as a minute before checking. After all, it's only a rough indication of oil quantity - it's either visible on the dipstick, or it's not. If it's visible, it's either high or it's low. And always run the engine for a few minutes before changing the oil - the oil flows out much easier when it's warm.

I used to be in Glen Waverley! Now I'm in Tarneit (Hoppers Crossing North), work in the city. I'm not so sure about the transmission-specific nature of ther dizzy. I recall, while I was waiting for the rebuild, I grabbed one from a wrecker - I don't recall them asking if it was for a manual or auto.

Have you got clearance on the bump-stops?

They are variants of the same condition. And the condition is an uncontrolled burn of the fuel/air mixture.And, if you can hear detonation, then it's already too late - the damage has been done.

I have one - fully rebuilt with new ignitor. And I might have a spare un-rebuilt one. But my R30 is a manual.

1. Remove some lead from the right boot. 2. Clean the injectors 3. Reset the ECU 4. Clean the air filter 5. Pump tyres up a bit - at least 2psi over manufacturer spec.

The cap doesn't come with the globe - you simply swap it over onto the new globe. Any spare parts supplier will have the globes.

Unless you are running monstrous boost levels, 0.6mm spark gap is too small. Open the gap out - I'd recommend 1mm.

How much boost are you running? Because 0.6mm spark gap is way too small for my liking - try opening the gap back out to around 1mm.

The tyre pressure is more controlled by the tyre itself. Check the manufacture's tech data for the recommended pressure. Most manufacturers (car and tyre) recommend a pressure that will aid in the comfort of the ride, ie they are a bit soft. Add at least 2 psi all round, then add another 2 psi to the fronts.

Which I D I O T set that up? It should be possible to do the swap without removing the engine or the sump. A hoist will help.

NO. NO. NO. NO.Swap the fronts with the rears. NEVER swap radial tyres side to side. That causes the tyre to rotate in the opposite direction, and that totally roots the setup of the underlying tread belts. Then you get a symptom of "out of alignment".

No, 8BTDC. The Wolf gets a trigger at 60BTDC, then fires the spark at 8BTDC. I'm running a slightly upgraded turbo, but only running about 12psi. Initially, I got 180 awkW on a mid-octane fuel. After the recent rebuild, it dropped to 150awkW (I suspect I've got leaking valve stem seals, and the oil coming through them is dropping the "effective" octane)

The Microtech is fully programmable. Have you actually checked the base (idle) timing with a timing light? Does the Microtech have a timing trigger offset setting? I have a RB25 running off a Wolf 3D, it's pretty stock (around 12psi) , but at full noise @6000, it runs around 8 degrees timing.

The CAS basically tells the ECU where #1 piston is - it doesn't send any particular voltage/resistance. Have you cheked the valve stem seals. If you ingest oil, you will lower the effective octane rating, which will lead to detonation. Using 93 octane, I'm guessing you are in N America. Otherwise 93 is waaayy too low.

Doesn't matter which one is disconnected. Either will disable the supply of tiny little electrons to the ECU.

If they are out of the car, just try and compress the shock. Dead ones compress really easily. If they are still in the car, "bounce" one corner. If the car stops bouncing inside 1 or 2 bounces, then the shock is basically ok.

What globes ard fitted at the moment?

If you change the front diff ratio, then you MUST change the rear to the same ratio. The front diff could be removed/refitted without having to remove the engine.

Have you installed anything recently, like a new head unit, or gauges, that might require power from the meters? Otherwise, as suggested, you have a bared power wire somewhere that is shorting onto the bodywork.

Perhaps "a rose by another name". This is what I know as the AAC valve, and it's the thing that needs to cleaned when we say "clean the AAC". The valve under the plenum I know as a "cold start air valve". Supplies additional air during warm-up. It closes off because a bi-metal strip cause the gate to shut, blocking off the air bypass.

It's the AAC (Auxialliary Air Control) valve. It is for controlling idle. It really should be connected.