blind_elk

Check the tension on the alternator belt.

The gearbox in my 32 has just over 200k on it - synchros are still fine. My R30 has nearly 300k on it - synchros are still fine.

What's going to tell the "modified ignition system" to fire the spark?The ECU does more than simply "control ignition timing". If you are after the carby induction sound, you can run injectors in a weber-style manifold fitted with trumpets (have a look on www.efihardware.com). That way, you get the fuel efficiency of EFI with the induction "roar" of Webers.

Well, Drew (coupe72001) destroyed an engine when he disengaged the clutch because the throttle jammed full open. It's up to you, but don't say you weren't warned.

Have you got the correct thrust bearing carrier? And adjust the pedal to spec.

mlr, double-clutch is used for down changes, not up changes. It is designed to match the speed of the engine to the speed of the gearbox. Between steps 2 and 3 (while clutch is engaged, but gearbox in neutral), you would also give a blip on the throttle to bring the engine revs up over what they were when you commenced the down change, so the the engine is revving fast enough to match the road speed. In most modern cars with healthy synchromeshes, it is not actually necessary to release and re-engage the clutch in the middle part (steps 2 & 3 - what happened to 4?), but simply "blip" the throttle. This is commonly referred to as "heel-toe". Hamish, if you enjoy bouncing the engine on the rev limiter on every (up) gear change, then by all means go ahead and flat shift. Unless you have the supporting electronics, I would strongly advise against the practice.

There is a big difference between "direct fit" and "direct replacement". I think standard RB20 injectors are only about 270cc. So these 440s will deliver nearly twice as much fuel each time they deliver a fuel charge. So your engine will run RRRIIICCCHHH without a re-programmed or aftermarket ECU.

I would say it's an electrical problem, possibly one of the relays controlling the injectors or coilpacks. Maybe check the plugs (onto the relays) first, then try replacing the relays.

More likely a failing igniter module - they don't like lots of heat after a while. Could also be a leaking injector flooding the spark plug.

Just about every manufacturer does it this way.Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

What happens if you put the Nismo FPR back on?

See Daniel at DJM Automotive in East Burwood.

You need to start with bleeding the master cylinder.

You sure the alternator is still working?

yes, I'm sure you mean retarded ?

Pretty sure there will a spigot bearing in the back of the RB25 crank (there was in the Stagea engine I installed in my 32 GTS4). You need to remove it and the RB20 spigot should then fit.

Closed Loop running doesn't affect the ignition timing, only the fuel delivery. You should notice the fuel ms varying (at cruise only!). Closed Loop attempts to run the engine at 14.7 AFR by continually reading the O2 sensor output and adjusting the fuel delivery. Because it is reactive, rather than predictive, it continually overshoots 14.7, so the AFR actually cycles between "> 14.7" and "< 14.7" AFR.

Get the correct battery. There should be a list available at battery resellers to match the correct battery to your car.

A bit of compression ratio will also help.Nissan race team ran 9.3 C/R (stock is around 8.5) and still ran 1.5 bar boost. The Serrias, on the other hand, ran 6 C/R but 3 bar boost. You all know which car was a more responsive car.

I think you will find its governed by an ADR, rather than a specific state law.

NDSOC website is back online now

And it would have been running SUPER LEAN on cruise.

Whole system was stock (L24E in R30 hatch). When I re-fitted the original injectors, it all worked perfectly.

Earth the loom-side pin, and check if light comes on or gauge goes 'full-scale".

Have you checked ignition timing? Have you checked fuel pressure (dying pump)?