blind_elk

Is it the "inside" wheel or the "outside" wheel? Sounds like a "locker".

Yes, this will be the problem. I believe a bit of nail polish will do the trick.

Did read it. And just read it again. Cannot, for the life of me, see any reference to you having changed the fuel maps, nor the fact that you had a broken CAS-aligning key. Nor that it used to almost run on these injectors. It's really quite easy to align the CAS on a broken key. And it will not do a thing if it is even 1 tooth out. How good is the battery? It might be that you are dropping too much voltage in attempting to turn the engine over, and the ECU can't cope. Try jumping off another car.

Ok, so while you are testing the coils, they are at a different angle to when they are "installed". That might suggest a fault in the wiring to #3 coil. Have a play with the wiring to the coil while the engine is running, see if that has any effect.

My money is on the wheel bearing.

It's not supposed to be loud! That's why the thing on the end is called a MUFFLER. If other people have loud exhausts, then they are risking a canary.

These 2 statements don't correlate. Either they all work, or #3 has a problem. Which one is it?

Under what conditions does the temperature go up? What causes it to come back down?

Consider this - the injectors you have are about 2.5 times the flow rate of the base-tune. That would suggest you are pumping in 2.5 times the fuel. That means something like a 5:1 AFR. Do you really think an engine can run with a 5:1 AFR? (maybe if the fuel was Methanol)

The principles are the same. If #3 isn't working, then they are not "all fine". To repeat the several squillion threads, it's simply a matter of moving / swapping component locations to determine which part of the system is kaput.

There a several squillion threads covering how to diagnose this problem.

PFCs don't have a "reset" mode, like the factory ECU does. How old is the battery? Do you have enough "juice" to get it started (try jumping from another (running) car). (I had the problem of not wanting to fire, even with a battery pack. Needed a jump.)

If it was oil starvation, then you would have NO pressure. As long as the pump can get oil, then it will create pressure. Whose oil (brand)? What SAE spec?

How old is the oil? What grade? I doubt it's "a crack in the oil pickup", or anything else, because adding extra (new) oil has alleviated the problem.

According to the Bendix website, http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue....;FromHomePage=1 a non-turbo R33 takes DB1165 pads up front.

It's a "default" tuned PFC. It won't be perfect. Get it tuned and all should be good.

Usual problem is the fins rust away off the impeller. Coz the japs don't like using "green stuff".

I have a side mount available (R32 GTS4, but probably the same).

You do have the factory fan, don't you?

Can you hear / feel the relay click on/off when you switch ON/OFF? Use an ohmmeter to confirm 0 ohms (or at least open circuit) between pins 1, 2. Remove the wire from pin 1 and just connect an earthed cable to the pin 1 on the relay, with IGN ON. You should hear the relay click, and the pump start working.

I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU. Why not get an aftermarket adjustable FPR, and bump the fuel pressure a few psi?

As the grandmaster said. The PFC doesn't know about fuel pressure, so you can't control it from there. The factory FPR is a rising rate regulator, and as you up the boost, so you will up the fuel pressure. You get more fuel by programming the PFC to open the injectors for a longer time.

Is the ECU "alive" when you turn the key to ON? In general, ECUs switch to earth (rather than provide power). But the ECU needs to be ON to know to do all this. What happens if you ground pin 1 with IGN ON?

Dead waterpump?

Have you got oil pressure? (I know it's not your problem, but you want oil pressure before you get the spark working). Is the igniter properly earthed? Have you tried a different igniter? Have you got a good block->chassis earth connection?