blind_elk

These 2 statements don't correlate. Either they all work, or #3 has a problem. Which one is it?

Under what conditions does the temperature go up? What causes it to come back down?

Consider this - the injectors you have are about 2.5 times the flow rate of the base-tune. That would suggest you are pumping in 2.5 times the fuel. That means something like a 5:1 AFR. Do you really think an engine can run with a 5:1 AFR? (maybe if the fuel was Methanol)

The principles are the same. If #3 isn't working, then they are not "all fine". To repeat the several squillion threads, it's simply a matter of moving / swapping component locations to determine which part of the system is kaput.

There a several squillion threads covering how to diagnose this problem.

PFCs don't have a "reset" mode, like the factory ECU does. How old is the battery? Do you have enough "juice" to get it started (try jumping from another (running) car). (I had the problem of not wanting to fire, even with a battery pack. Needed a jump.)

If it was oil starvation, then you would have NO pressure. As long as the pump can get oil, then it will create pressure. Whose oil (brand)? What SAE spec?

How old is the oil? What grade? I doubt it's "a crack in the oil pickup", or anything else, because adding extra (new) oil has alleviated the problem.

According to the Bendix website, http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue....;FromHomePage=1 a non-turbo R33 takes DB1165 pads up front.

It's a "default" tuned PFC. It won't be perfect. Get it tuned and all should be good.

Usual problem is the fins rust away off the impeller. Coz the japs don't like using "green stuff".

I have a side mount available (R32 GTS4, but probably the same).

You do have the factory fan, don't you?

Can you hear / feel the relay click on/off when you switch ON/OFF? Use an ohmmeter to confirm 0 ohms (or at least open circuit) between pins 1, 2. Remove the wire from pin 1 and just connect an earthed cable to the pin 1 on the relay, with IGN ON. You should hear the relay click, and the pump start working.

I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU. Why not get an aftermarket adjustable FPR, and bump the fuel pressure a few psi?

As the grandmaster said. The PFC doesn't know about fuel pressure, so you can't control it from there. The factory FPR is a rising rate regulator, and as you up the boost, so you will up the fuel pressure. You get more fuel by programming the PFC to open the injectors for a longer time.

Is the ECU "alive" when you turn the key to ON? In general, ECUs switch to earth (rather than provide power). But the ECU needs to be ON to know to do all this. What happens if you ground pin 1 with IGN ON?

Dead waterpump?

Have you got oil pressure? (I know it's not your problem, but you want oil pressure before you get the spark working). Is the igniter properly earthed? Have you tried a different igniter? Have you got a good block->chassis earth connection?

130 - well, it was last April.

Yes. The size is "nominal" - different manufacturers get different rolling diameters out of the "same size".

It was probably the water from the a/c (a/c removes moisture from the air and dumps it down the pipe you have indicated. if you get under the car, you should see it is open-ended.) The container is probably the radiator overflow. The washer bottle might be partially hidden by the airbox.

Shortest distance is best. Roads are all sealed. Just watch out for road trains.

I'm told The Great Alpine Way, between Wangaratta and Bairnsdale, is quite good. Black Spur, between Alexandra and Healesville. Or detour to Reefton Spur (Marysville -> Warburton). GOR, to Apollo Bay, then on to Lavers Hill and return. Return to Melbourne via Forrest and Moriac. Best with an early (7am) start, to avoid all the tourists. In Tas: Devonport -> Sheffield -> Mole Ck -> Deloraine -> Longford -> Cressy -> Poatina -> Bothwell -> Hobart. Hobart -> Triabunna -> Swansea -> Bicheno. Elephants Pass (Chain of Ponds -> St Marys -> Scamander) Scamander -> St Helens -> Derby -> Scottsdale -> Launceston. All absolutely brilliant roads.

I'm thinking to check for clearance in the pushrod into the master cylinder. Should just be able to wiggle the rod. Check before you start out (when friction point is low) and then again when friction point gets too high.