Newy

basically the less cells the less restriciton, therefore more flow

Tir60 - your a nob, driving on the PUBLIC road is a privledge not a right. The road is owned by the government, so you actually can't do what you like. What if i was on the side of the road pushing my son in his pram and said driver mounted the curb and instead of flipping back onto road.. or whatever the circumstance was hit us, or anyother person in the area? Next time you want to 'have a squirt' or whatever it is you said, how about hit the track... itll cost you all of about $150 +fuel+tyres+servicing cost. It's realistically a pretty small cost when you weigh up the fines you'll recieve for speeding, etc, not to meantion possible loss of income from losing licence? PLUS track is fkn AWSOME fun !!

exhaust manifold studs are the gayest in the world wen the strip, wish i stumbled across this when i had this problem. good luck

would be interested to see a picture of your can wen ur kits fitted! um, have a look on secretdrift.com.au look for a user named matterhatter or something similar he does good work for fairly cheap

underneath all that i liked the idea behind, a good solid tune helping keep a motor healthly lol, i think he may have been getting at that somewhere in there

sweet, what sort of price tag landed and complied are we looking at for hte cube?

another question: ive picked up a set of sway bars(front seems to be 27mm, rear about 24mm) the on the rear part where it bolts to what i call the link, is vertical rather than horizontal. is there somesort of link kit for this, or have i just got the wrong one. The part came off a 2 door r33, trying to fit to r33 4 door.

noob question: Do you NEED the links? Or is it just a benifit to upgrade?

Have 1 x drivers side power window motor to suit R33 2 door. I'll upload a picture shortly, but i think most ppl who need 1 know what it looks like. Price: $50 Contact : Pete - pete_newbold@hotmail.com, pm, or 0430 373100 (if i dont answer, txt me and i'll get back to you)

Only ever tried on R33's tho but.... Simply use brasso, rub fairly hard all over in cirlces. 5 minutes per light or so. then rub off firmly with clean cloth. comes up brand new each time ive done it

Im in no way having a dig, full comp insurance is a pure waste of money. Because if you have an accident, you wont be covered. Trust me i know, the $2400 a year i use to pay for full comp, had an accident whilst driving unlicenced. Couldnt claim a thing, i think i salvaged about 7k back in parts. Bit shy of the 20k worth of car. Makes u grow up and learn pretty damn fast mind u. Learn from my mistake its not worth it. Either way you will just do what u like anyways just as i did at that age good luck with it tho.

I don't understand your question. 215/45/17 will be perfect.

any recomendation as to what size/brand sway bars? not particularly interested in loss of daily driving ability, the car is only really used for track drfiting

not to dig up an old thread, so a front strut + under car sway bars... unsure of best option? For my r33 sedan will be enough, im really just trying to get a bit of extra stability in higher speed slides

old soarer? i could be wrong

pm'd long ago, no reply. exhaust price?

if your dead set on becoming a mechanic, you could consider either leaving school and getting an apprentership or doing a school based apprentership 1 or 2 days a week. otherwise not being an ass, I would go to say there would be pretty much no one that would hire u to 'clean' as others have said, thats apprentice job(unless you might know a workshop owner etc). would be much easier to try autobarn/supercheap as a first job

brand of coilovers? springs rates too if possible? condition? age? etc thanks

bit more feed back for superspark. Had mine in for about 5000kms , including 1 track day. plugs gapped at 1.1mm. havent had any hint of even a slight misfire! product fitted exactly as per the oem items. I'm yet to increase boost up yet, will post once i have. ALSO 12 month warrenty on super spark... not 2-6months as previously stated.

sorry if im way off the mark, but can't you just run vac line from actuator to manifold pressure?(one of the nipples on ur intake piping) Wont this run actuator pressure? without the need of boost controller? Sorry if this is wrong, just seems easier to do to get 7psi across the rev range?

location?

Dude dont bother with china wheels, your wheels will set your cars look off imo I have r33 gtr wheels which are 17x9 +30 offset, and they dont have good enough fitment for me... something with like 17 or 18 X 9 with about a +20 offset will fit nicely under your guards(you will have to roll them) whats your budget for wheels? there are stacks of 2nd hand japanese wheels floating around that wuld look tough for under $1500!!! Good luck Edit:- The 2nd set you posted up that the dude with s14 has look good for cheaper wheels!! so long as you get them in good offset like 18x9.5 +20 or there abouts. Also dont be scared to get your guards rolled or flared a bit will make the car look far more aggressive!

I've personally been into the Nissan Dealer Ship on the Gold Coast, several times chasing different parts for my r33, Exhaust manifold studs, exhaust man gasket, turbo/man gasket, few other things i cant really remember now. Altho they werent the friendliest people i have ever met, they did however answer every query i had and each time had the parts in stock i needed

Great price, will pass this onto interested friend!

easy fix sir, Get out ur trust multimeter.... find a wire(near the fuse box maybe? i had no trouble locating one in about 30 seconds) that gives you 12v when the car is turned off and tap into it. I don't care what any super fantastic gotta be perfect car installers on here think. This will work, but make sure when you tap into it you either 1 solder it up, or put connecters on it. As jack88 said, also check you have wired it correctly :laugh: