rev210

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sard are easy enough to fit. All injectors ought to be snug.

Air filter is a seriously small horsepower improvement. The fact that you gain anything on a dyno is soemtimes negated when you dyno/test with the bonnet 'down' as you always ought to. The airflow characteristics at speed are often quite different to the dyno booth.

vicosity is not the only thing to consider. Black and gold brand oil comes in 10w-40 too. manufacturer spec for nissan oil. Nissan oil reccomendation is ACEA standard - B4 Magnatec only conforms to ACEA -A3 and B3 Magnatec = wrong. Wrong = wear. wear = broken broken = $$$$

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HBF are cheap. You get what you pay for sometimes don't you? Took them more than 7 months to repair my car. They stalled the entire process over a dispute on quality of repair (note choice of repairer means they still have final say on what gets fixed and how well). I got what I wanted because I demonstrated a legal knowledge of this element of insurance law and pushed the point almost to a court date. The small amount of money I saved on the premium was not worth the time wasting stressful process they put me through. Big thumbs down for quality. I'd like to add that the health insurance side is very good however

I went from pods (heat sheilded), back to the factory airbox with K&N panel. The air pick up at the front bar means 'rammed' air at speed keeps the box closer to a positive air pressure which reduces the resistance to flow. The factory airbox's chamber volume could be improved however for higher horsepower. The ARC airbox ; where does the air get draw in from as it looks to me like it might still suck in hot engine bay air?

More power = more wear. the bearing and ring materials are basically the same across motors you find in 1.3L hyundai's and Nissan Rb26dett's . These components all wear out over time and use ala the second law of thermodynamics. The Rb26 makes more factory power than the Rb25 or Rb20 and proportionately lasts less time before these components are worn out. Consider also that simple modifications on the RB26 greatly increase it's power above the levels of those other motors. My R32 has covered the better part of 250,000kms and the motor is definately worn. The number 3 is well down 'cold' compression but, the plug is still clean and the motor does everything right with a small amount of blowby. I think this might be some kind of record for an engine of anykind this size making more than 200rwkw all it's life. If this motor had been making 400rwk it would have lasted around 25,000kms before re-ring / bearing if your lucky.

173rwkw = 13.3@106mph (2.3 60ft) on 205 tyres R33 gtst. 33 deg ambient. Dyno numbers don't tell you everything. I recently thought of tracking the time over the x axis for rpm. This way you can track the accelleration times under load in each gear. This will directly translate to a relative 1/4 mile prediction as things like rotational mass greatly affect accelleration and can be shown using this measurement, without it you can't see the benifit. The physical weight of the car and areodynamics are then the only factors left to associate. Next time you go to the dyno get your stop watch out and see how long it takes to make the power. Bolt in a lightweight flywheel or lighter rims, change the diff ratio and see just how big an influence these things can have.

You are very sensible then. With a basic car you may actually be able to save money.

It's probably more of an upgrade performance wise over your gtst tho'.

GTiR's sometimes go for a snick over $10k, well worth it.

castrol make a good synthetic gearbox oil.

I Have also found the redline lightweight to be pretty useless as a diff oil even in the factory LSD. To be fair redline on the bottle they do mention that additional friction modifier may need to be added for LSDs to get them working right.

The PFC controller has proved to less than spectacular for quite a few people who have tried it on GTR's.

Topaz, alternative; castrol antifreeze 350.

ultracool=wrong

While we are on cheap stuff.... Make sure you use nissan spec coolant, it has the 10mg/100 benzo-thingo additive for corrosion/cavitation. There are other brands (castrol) who make this spec but, they are all about the same price (expensive). Use other stuff and your motor is in for serious issues. Topaz if that was your bill I'm not sure you ended up with the right coolant, from memory it's about $40 for 4 or 5L.

magnatech oil? You might be short on cash with the whole performance car thing but, you keep buying cheap arse oil like that and things are going to get a whole lot more expensive for you real soon. At least put oil in within the factory reccomendation if you must go cheap mineral oil. Mind you with the sludge minerals leave behind you best flush the engine oil every change to be sure (there goes your saving). If this costs too much for you then sell your car or get comfortable with the idea that sooner or later your money is going to run out when something breaks. Welcome to performance car ownership the land of high maintenence costs!

Hi Nugget. The N1's are going to need a few other things to make them work. Injectors / Ecu / fuel pump / big clutch etc... The thing to do is to sit down and try and work out what sort of stuff you want to do with your car. Take your time doing it. Then progressively get everything that matches the desired purpose. You end up with what you want (or think you want) in such a way as to save you money and to a greater extent a better packaged car overall.

Those are big'un turbo's. Basically like mine so follow the same path and 300rwkw easy as. The cams are good because you need less boost and less rpm to make the same power . Makes thing more reliable before you even touch the headroom they give you for more power over factory cams. Do the dump pipes while the turbo's are being changed if you can. You will need to port the old cast iron manifolds too as the factory one won't match the inlet on the new turbo's. Then a Power FC along with 700cc injectors. After that a Fuel pump Then bigger Rb20/25 AFMs or just get the d-jetro Power FC to start with and be done with them.

Depends what you want. Why stop at low mount turbos if your after speedy 1/4 mile action? Low mounts of either kind will break plenty of factory parts when tuned right up. Gearbox ,diff, clutch blah blah blah.... Have a look in your wallet and then decide how fast you want the car to go and bingo a compromise!

If you get R32 'Nismo' turbos there are a few to choose from. I have RS581 spec units aka group A turbo's (0.60 AR front and 0.64 rear) and provided you run a mild set of cams will make alot more than 300rwkw.Even at low boost (13psi) 300rwkw is too easy when you set everything up right. Mine makes about 280rwkw at a lazy 7,000rpm and 13psi of boost on a very old motor and I haven't even got aftermarket dump pipes on yet and just a 3inch quiet exhaust. The tune is deliberately aimed at keeping the power peak down to keep things ticking along. The .48 front housing version is a smaller variant and will probably peak around the 300rwkw mark or a tad over. If you are going the bigger units and want to smash some power out of them you ought to get 700cc injectors and if boost is going to be up around 20psi an O ring of the block would be a good idea in addition to the advice already given. The RS581/group A's can make close to 400rwkw when properly setup with mild cams and engine setup perhaps more with a more serious motor. Definately put aside some money for tomei 260 deg poncams, they help alot. from the graph you can see how the tune has 'knocked the top off' the power peak to keep things sedate on the 250,000km old motor; http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1131592209.jpg

You are among the many who don't seem to know 'why' they change oil at 5,000kms. Under full load the difference in wear compared to everyday driving is massive. 5,000kms is meaningless under 'race' conditions. There are plenty of variables but, one very good rule of thumb CHANGE YOU FRICKEN OIL AFTER RACING. This goes for your diff and gearbox too under the same rationale. Extra modifiers for the 5,000km limit include but, are not limited to ; * dusty environments * High temperature climates * Increases in engine power. I find I am changing mine at around 3,000 -at the moment with 370rwhp. Not rocket science that one, however I meet people with more than 400rwhp and still think the factory (270rwhp odd) change intervals are applicable (very sad). * Increased engine load * Poor fuel mixtures due to larger profile cams or maps * fuel type Thats how you get 250,000kms + out of an original R32 GTR engine, gearbox, transfer case and diff. Hope that clears things up for you a little.