frx026

To 123456, Thanks for insulting myself and a lot of other people on this forum who own a skyline and take pride in their car. Perhaps you should get one of these Then, stick it on your fridge, hang your keys on it, dont ever drive your car again, and maybe, just maybe you might not feel so ashamed driving your "rice car" around all the time.

So, the back seat was removed? Whats the big deal, Back seats come out of cars all the time. In fact some alarms recommend removal of seats for component instalation. I dont think it how much of the car as been pulled apart to put the system in, but more importantly it is where the components are mounted in the car and how accessible they are to tampering. The same can be said for wiring. I am not critisising anyone, what ever the method that provides protection for the car is all that matters. But i do think that some installers and alarm companys instill a false sense of security in the customer. I often laugh at statements such as 'they will never steal it' ' this car isnt going anywhere' 'they will never work out that wiring' Any car regardless of make can be stolen. At a business conference lately that involved insurance companies and state law enforcement we were treated to test that some insurance companies perform to access theft potenetial of cars. Basically it involved some "reformed" car theives that are now employed by these companies to test theft potential of cars. We saw a new falcon , a lexus ( recently rated the most theft proof car in aust by nrma) and a crappy old current model commodore get "attacked" The test is for the car to be theft resistant for more than 3 minutes. If it passes this 3 minute mark the car is deemed " theft proof" commodore vz - 41 seconds - no visable damage to the car Falcon BF - 1 min 4 sec - no visable damage to the car lexus ( i forgot the model number) - 3 minutes 4 seconds - no visable damage to the car Items used to break and start these cars were household items readily available to anyone. After the demonstration was complete we were allowed a small amount of time to talk to these 'reformed' individuals. I cant indentify the person that i spoke to, i can only really say that he used to steal holdens for a living. We started talking about wiring and alarms, this person knew the cars backwards, inside out and upside down. I was actually impressed by his level of technical knowledge on vehicles. As far as alarms went, he could describe wiring and instal techniques used frequently in workshops nation wide every day. " most cars are easy ( to steal) because the alarm is not well installed" he told me. This experience has re-confirmed my beleif that it is in the way things are put in to the car that will deem how evective the security systems, alarms etc are. So, in summary, dont be fooled by someone that apparently does a good job. GO AND HUNT DOWN A BRILLIANT INSTALLER. THEY ARE WORTH THE EXTRA

Hey ParaDizzle, In all seriousness, if you want some really good speakers without a hefty price tag check out some VDO MPS1700. You WILL be surprised just how awesome these speakers are. I can tell you from putting them in a few cars lately that they are absolutely awesome. Currently I dont have a picture on file to post, But they are diam - 6.5" watt rms - 90 sens - 91 db Mounting depth - just right for an r33 Alot of dealers are just getting them in as they are a new product. I would highly recommend a listen to these. Cheers Frx026

Thanks Burson's are about as smart as a BOX OF HAMMERS The point of my question was to find out from people who had had expeience with this. Anyone else?

Please see point 2 - same person - same thing - mate, without sounding to smart, are you trying to have your car stolen?

Why muck around with 6.5's when you can, and i say this seriously, and you CAN with a lot of Modification to car, panels, doors, dash "simply" wack a set of these babies in. http://www.usdaudio.com/products/wg-sets.php With an 8" driver and compression horn, nothing comes close.

Hi, I would like to know two specifics. 1 - what is the correct gap for sparkplugs 2 - what is the correct NGK iridium part number to use BKR5EIX-11 or BKR5EIX Car is R33 Series 2 Manual Standard Motor Standard Turbo Only mods are K + N Panel filter in std air box VMP Custom electronic Boost controller 5/8 psi selectable (yep, the car is pretty tame) I Realise the two questions are similar. I just want to double check the exact parts required. Thanks FRX026

Yeah Strathfield sell them for $19.00 for a dozen. but they are 10 billion watts peak. they also come with a certificate to prove the wank factor of owning one.

If you would like to know the official theft rates for any suburb in Australia use this link. http://www.carsafe.com.au/t_08.html Just put your details in and it will give you an indication of how many cars are stolen and how much of a risk your car is.

Chris, It never seems to amaze me that people just dont get car security. I always thought that the more secret your were on the type of system you had or the way it was installed would benefit you in a breakin/ theft situation. There are two crazy things in this post. 1 - A link to a car security company that allows for download ( without registration/ identification) wiring diagrams and information that could be easily used to steal a car with their system. and... ( and this is the best one) 2 - photos of a car showing clearly it's rego details (number plate) and the type of alarm installed. Chris, hopefully you would agree. Guys, for the interest of keeping your cars safe, get a good alarm, have it professionally installed and then, dont tell anyone (not even your mom) what sort it is. There are a lot of dodgy poeple that read forums to gain information to steal cars. BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU POST

or by downloading the instal manual, using the information to give the power lock module the signal it requires to start. probably take you 20 secs or so to steal the car seeing they are so helpful with supplying all the info..

Hi kgangulw, I am an authorised installer of Quik Trak's. DONT BUY ONE! Quik track is a fair alarm system, if you live work and only ever travel within its coverage zones. For a better product, check out the car minder system, it works on GSM technology, which means depending on the sim card you put in it the coverage will be huge. ( a lot larger than quik track will ever be) You will also save on the monitoring fees because you will only be paying for a sim card. I usually recommend something like a cheap optus/voda plan. Telstra SUCK! You will get similar functions to a quiktrack but you will have access to it from any phone on the planet. EG - car is stolen with your mobile phone in the console - go to phone box - call car - shut down motor - get gps position - recover car Easy, Just make sure the people putting in the system know what they are doing. Please note, i do not work for either carminder, quiktrack or Cobra, I am just referring you to a better product. http://www.carminder.com.au/index.htm http://cobracaralarms.com.au/uploadedFiles...519709-4339.jpg Cheers frx026

Hi gts-4 dreamer, This is a common problem, you have wired the earth of your headunit to the illumination wire in your car's loom. to fix, - disconnect head unit earth - run head unit earth direct to car chasis - replace illumination fuse in boot next to battery Problem solved. If you do want to wire the units earth into the cars wiring loom, you will need to test with a test light for your earth wire. to test - one end of test light on constant 12v - turn on parking lights ( make sure you have replaced the fuse first) - probe each wire one at a time - test light goes out - wrong wire (illumination) - test light stays on - right wire ( ground / earth) - wire head unit earth to this wire Cheers frx026

Hi Space Ninja, With your headlights dimming a capacitor will not help in this situation. The Job of a capacitor is to provide a quick discharge of current to a high current device, like an amplifier. You might find that the cap will help you for 10 seconds or so, but for the long run it will not work. The way to fix the problem is to - upgrade battery - upgrade earth between battery and car chasis - upgrade the charge wire between alternator and battery - change regulator voltage from 12v to 14 v ( this charges your battery at a higher rate) It's a lot, but i can tell you from my experience over the 10 years or so that a capacitor has never resolved this problem in any model of car. Cheers frx026

Hi grepin, Kenwwod units have the tendancy to skip, mainly due to them using sanyo lasers and mechanism's. This has been the design kenwood have run with for the past 8 years. I to have experienced problems with Kenwood units and will now NEVER own or recommend them to anyone. To get the unit fixed is relatively simple, send it to kenwood in sydney with a copy of your purchase receipt ( within 12 months for warranty ) and they will within 6-8 weeks have it back to you. However they may not fix it. If it is out of the warranty then dont bother getting it fixed, parts are expensive. My experience. The last unit i sent to kenwood was the last one i owned, it went back and forth 4 times, which was pretty bad, i was a dealer for them at the time. The forth time it went back in PEICES with a letter addressed to the then national service manager and a video tape. The tape was of the kenwood unit on a concrete floor being smashed with a hammer. And of a SONY unit going into my car. They sent me a new one which i gave away when i received it. Cheers frx026

Hi grepin, There are numerous good buys out there at the moment, Here are a couple. JB HIFI Sony cdx7710f - 3 x preout, flip face,mp3 aux in, eq expect to pay $380 REPCO Pioneer dehp6850mp - 3 x preout, flip face, ipod control, wma,aac, mp3, expect to pay $499 ( $70 cheaper than JB) Cheers. frx026

Hi bluer33, I regards to Neon lights (additional vehicle lighting) in Victoria, the following points may be useful to you. I have used these guidelines for the last few years on many cars and have had no major difficulties. 1 - Additional lighting must not impede access to the vehicle 2 - Additional lighting must not interfere with or impede safety features 3 - Modifications for additional lighting mounting points must not protrude from the body ( see vic modification guide) 4 - Additional lighting must have a seperate on/off function and cannot be directly linked to an existing vehicle system ( doors, lights etc) 5 - forward facing lights must not be red 6 - rearward facing lights nust not be clear 7 - red or blue light is permitted as long as they are not on the vehicle at once (ie cannot have blue neon at rear - brake lights are red) 8 - lights must be of one color and cannot flash, rotate or turn 9 - instalation must include, on/off switch, fusing For any additonal lighting for the vehicles interior, it must - have an on/off switch and not rely on an existing car circuit - be mounted in such a way that the source of light cannot be seen ( only the glow can be seen) - be mounted in such a way that vehicle access or safety devices remain effective - not be mounted within 300mm of the drivers or any passengers head in a normal driving position In summary. Green or purple are the safest colors, however no matter what you put on your car external neon wise, they really act as a magnet for the wrong type ( boys in blue) attention. If you are prepared for this, perhaps you could consider LEDS over neons. The advantages will be - generally smaller lights to install - brighter than neons - last longer than neons - LED's are more likely to be clean (electrically) and not give you that annoy pop through your stereo every time they turn off/on - LED's use less power Many retailers are now getting out of Neon with LED taking over, of all the retailers i have visited lately, an unlikely one has the best range and prices - Repco. Please note this information is given in good faith, fitment of any products should always be done by a qualified person. Hope this information helps. FRX026

Hi, Councils are the worst to deal with, the are slow, so you will have to chase your money. So just 2 suggestions 1 - Get a lawyer, bill the council for your legal costs as well as the cost of the repairs. 2 The magic words " trash TV", yep Today Tonight and current affair feed on stories just like this one. The angle to push is how scared you were at the time, how your only car will be off the road due to no fault of your own, how it is lucky you were not injured, and the best one, how the council has failed to respond to your demands. Nothing like a bit of bad press for the council to MAKE them pay. Cheers, FRX026

OBES There have been several threads on here relating to "tracking alarms" I would suggest to you a system called car minder. It is not one of the cheapest systems on the market, but it is definatly one of the better more reliable ones. ScottKing GTS-4 There are several reasons why NOT to buy a powerlock system. 1 - The supplier, check out the website for all the spelling mistakes that are made. Most half decent companies will have a website that works and is spelt correctly. 2 - From the powerlock.com.au website you can without any form of registration or identification download the PDF instalation manual for the powerlock system, it has very detailed information on how and where the unit is in the car, as well as all of its components. Great information to supply to a theif so he/she can edcate themselves on how to steal your car. No other company i have ever dealt with in the last 10 years makes this type of information so public. Read the manual, it all that is stopping your car from being stolen is some super glue and a spade connector. 3 - The installers recommended by this company contain a list of some "not so good" installers. They are simply using the CAR SAFE list which, companies can register for, however need no specific training to get the accreditation. Your instaltion which is the most important part of any security system would most likely be rubbish 4 - Where are they based? Usually a manufacturer will list an address in the contact details. No address is given in Australia, on ly the US address of manufacture. 5 - The warranty on this product instantly becomes void as soon as a theft or attempted theft is made. 6 - Anyone with an ABN can become a "certified installer" with no tests, training or proof of prior skills. Summary, You would be wasting your money on this product. You would get better security by going to your local girl guide club, asking the smallest girl the for the yellow Ribbon in her hair and then using that ribbon to tie your car to a tree or something. Believe it or not I am not trying to sound like a smartass, I just cant believe how bad the product is. Cheers FRX026

There is another way to do this with exactly the same results. The only difference being that it is not visable inside the engine bay, or if wanting to use a switch can be done from inside the cabin. ( no running wires through the firewall) Items required wire ( different colors prefered) Spade conectors 12 v 30amp changeover relay on/off switch Tools required - wire cutters - wire crimpers Time taken about 30 min This involves cutting wores directly from the ecu located in the passenger kickpanle. if you are not able to, or are not sure of which wire to cut, DONT do this! 1 - Remove passenger kickpanel 2 - on ECU locate plug second from bottom ( while it is still mounted in car) 3 - locate light green wire coming from this plug. 4 - cut wire 5 - install relay Wiring for relay is: 30 - to green wire car side 87a - to green wire ECU side 87 - to pin 86 on this relay 85 - accessory 12v 86 - switch 6 - install switch Wiring for on/off switch pin 1 - to pin 86 of relay pin 2 - earth 7 - reassemble car 8 - test drive When the switch is in th ON position you will have high boost mode all the time, when the switch is off, it will run as a standard car ( hi/low boost mode) Notes: - Test car was a R33 series 2 - check wiring colors on other models before proceding - Make sure all electrical connections are insulated - make sure that all wiring is secured and cannot be damaged by normal operation of the car

Hi arh32, This is most likely going to sound harsh, but i mean it with the best intentions. If you are not sure what you are doing take it to an authorised installer and have them put it in. An Alarm is only as good as it's instalation. If you were to follow the diagram posted on here it would take a thief about a millisecond to steal your car. Thieves target certain cars, and they know the wiring systems and what they look like, adding this type of in line immobiliser while effective against the amatuer would be no match for someone who has stolen one before. Just read through the forums to see how many other people are now trying to recover a car because they saved " a few bucks" putting it in. You would also find that a simple starter and fuel pump cut as described here will not be compatible with a turbo timer, so if you have one, you will have to sit in the car, or stand next to it waiting for it to finish before you can arm your engine immobiliser. Otherwise your car will efeectively run out of fuel each time, potentially causing damage to your injectors or fuel system. Beleive me I have spent the best part of 10 years fixing up exactly what you are describing. Now, it is not all bad, the BW10000 is an excellent alarm, i wouldnt have told the entire planet on a forum you have one, but they are excellent alarm. They do actually have 3 point immobilisation, 2 built into the box and one external. It is possible and very achievable to have all three immobilisers hooked up and connected with a turbo timer and it all to work correctly. It just requires more wiring. If installed correctly the turbo timer will not pose a security risk to your car either. I cant stress enough how vitally important the instalation is. Good luck with it. Regards Pj

Hi Psymonm There are a few things that it could be, i would start be checking the following. - Earthing points for your amplifiers - make sure they are clean and not loose at all. - Earthing points for your head units - Earthing points for your battery. - Amp Power cable connection to your battery - RCA connection at head unit and at amp - RCA path to rear of car - especially under the back seat, they may have become pinched, cutting through the insulation and them allowing inducted or radiated noise in. These are a few of the obvious ones. really it is just a trial and error thing, there is no real one hit solution to engine noise as every car is different. Good luck with it. Regards Pj

Hi markOhR33, it is a fairly straight forward fix, just take it to Chris Rogers and get him to do it. He knows his stuff. Having your alarm working is worth the money, after all, it might be the only thing preventing someone stealing your precious ride. OO_The4door_OO - FYI - this would not be the prefered option and would mean that your car would be very easy to steal, all I would need to do is find the turbo timer, trigger it and bang, there is your ignition, roll start it, the car is gone, you lost your ride. It is possible to have muliple point immobilisation and a turbo timer and not have your car easy to steal. There is just a lot more wiring and people within the industry tend not to release this type of information. But i will assure you it can be done. Regards Pj

Hi spio, Just a tip, dont waste your own time trying to solve a problem with your alarm, remember it is the only thing that may prevent your car from being stolen. Take your car to a professional and get it done properly. An alarm is only as good as it's instalation. If you want to save a few bucks then try this. Disconnect your door sense wire from the car, arm the system and check for error chirps, these are the chirps you are hearing presently, meaning something is staying open. No chirps, then you have a problem with your door switch, Reconnect the door sense wire to your door alert wire in your kickpanel. If you still have no interior light, then there is a problem with the car. Check your fuses. (OO_The4door_OO) - FYI - running wires through the head lining for an alarm is usually the hardest thing to do and every professional I have met in the last 10 or so years will only use this as a last resort. Most cars have a sensor or master wire in them and it jsut a matter of knowing where to look - in your R33 it is a thin red wire in your drivers kick panel. Regards Pj

Hi v_s_p_e_c, I am guessing that you dont want your ariel coming up when driving. If this is the case. Go to the boot of car, remove the inner trim on the passenger side, remove the two bolts thats secure the antenna in place, remove the top section of the antenna on the car. Slide the antenna out and unplug the wiring directly from the antenna, Cable tie or secure the wiring so it does not just "flop" around. Now reinstal the antenna leaving it unplugged. ( top section and two bolts) Reinstal the inner trim of the boot. You will still have some radio reception due to the on glass antenna, how ever it will most likely be crappy, so buy a good mp3 player. Regards Pj