ylwgtr2
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Posts posted by ylwgtr2
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we've all wasted money on cars over the years,spent many hours only to have sold the car at a later date at a huge financial loss.....old classic cars always hold a good dollar so this time im rather excited with my current purchase,this genuine 1975 mazda GT rx3....I bought old granddad mazda from japan and he has had quite a few nasty paint jobs over the years,although he is in pretty original condition.So here he is just arrived ready for his return to youth make over.....its getting stripped to a bare shell,bead blasted underneath/inside and outside,repainted and fitted with a period correct mazda factory racing 12a peripheral port engine,although it will have throttlebody injection hidden underneath the standard aircleaner
.....now old pops would have been a bit of a stud in his day,being mazda's "sportscar" of the seventies,the RX3 gave a shake up to the gtr in the japanese touring car class spoiling nissans chance of 50 wins in a row and for some reason appears to be the most desirable model.....so here is a bit of nostalgia for the younger guys to show them it wasnt about how loud your stereo was,how bright your neons are or how silly you can make your car look with 50 inch wheels.....it was the begining of the era that got the boys with V8s worried and taught them the meaning of respect and killed off the term "jap crap". -
you know who the guy is?......why dont you chase him up and give him a flogging????forget the cops...the truth is he wont get much from the law.....maybe free food and lodging for a few months paid by us tax payers.....
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nsw engineers certs mean as much to vicroads as nsw roadworthies.
f*ck all.
IF for some reason they let it past on an engineer's, itd have to be victorian. but buckleys chance on that too usually. cuz they'll just send you an EPA. and you cant tell them its ok that your emissions are higher than everybody elses cuz some guy in a workshop said it was safe to drive.
welcome to victoria, where registering, insuring, and in general owning a car is the most painful experience known to man.
i just swapped a mazda rx4 from sydney to vic reg car had a nsw engineers report for a ford 9 inch disc brake diff,series 5 turbo engine and change of front brakes.....i didnt even have to take the car there
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put on a standard airbox and exhaust and go rego it
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def the coils.....just get your self some new splitfires and you wont have anymore troubles.....its not really possible to test them...
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you eitheir have a leaking reg/fuel pump(leaking back to tank)/injectors.....no reason why it shouldnt behave like a normal car.....any other answer you get is incorrect
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you are kind of asking a lot of it big fella
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My recommendation is, (assuming you have the garage space) spend $350 on a heavy duty engine crane and $200 on a set of 1/2 inch drive sidchrome sockets. Another $50 on a good condition used engine stand. Another $200 on a torque wrench if you don't know anyone that has one.
Rip the motor out yourself.
Read the factory service manual on how to disassemble. Label every part you pull off in a ziploc bag and have them sitting in order of removal.
Pull down the block and take it to a workshop to get the bores measured. IF neccessary, get it machined oversize and order oversize pistons.
What you lack in experience you will make up for in terms of being s--tscared to do anything wrong - if you are putting it together yourself, you will be so worried about fsking something up you will check everything, like, 10 times before you put it back. ALso it's your car so you won't cut corners.
WOrkshops won't do this.
My 2c.
customers wont pay for the time to do this
dont take me seriously Im just dicking around mate -
a question for you.....is the balancer gripping on the crank/woodruff key correctly?reason i ask is that is ive seen a balancer that had stripped the woodruff key and was loose on the shaft,the bolt bound up its own thread and refused to come out(it wound out 2 turns then was rock solid)This engine had a crack in the pump gears because of the balancer wobbling back and forward like a dick in a shirt sleeve
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looks to me like he is trying to do the right thing and put later doors on with intrusion bars fitted......did you miss that part???
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years ago me and my bro fitted a 13b to a car once by hand (lifted it in the engine bay )
....call me biased -
im not sure why you would machine n/a rotors down :S.....i wouldnt bother with a turbo engine on a ke series corolla.....you could muscle somewhere between 250-300hp out of an na engine in that light body would perform quite nice and be very reliable and as stipulated put together properly from the start.....cutting corners on a rotary will hit you hard in the back pocket and thats where they get the bad rep from
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i say rotary......its been a burning obsession of mine to do a ke30/55 or 70 with one for years......i have a racing car with a 12a in it and ive beaten the crap out of it and it just wont give up.....our b2000 delivery ute has a series 4 6 port non turbo in it and had almost 300,000klms on it untill i burst a hose and cooked it on the way to work once.....it was my own fault i should have stopped and called someone to help and it still would be going....ive since built a new engine for it and its strong as an ox.....rotaries need to be serviced by the book and need to be put together correctly from the word go.....not just the engine but all the add on bits....a N/A ported rotary wont give you any trouble if its done right and looked after...a PP or bridge port 13b built up with late model housings/side plates,rx8 high comp rotors and e shaft,efi(maybe even vapour gas injection as im working on it now
) will be quite torquey (contradictary to what youve heard)and rock solid reliable in a car like that.....i love the sound of them especially my mazda factory racing PP engine.....and the flames out the pipe.....oh the flames.....too cool -
to reset the airbag turn the ignition switch on and push the interior light switch on the door pillar a minimum of 7 times
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heres mine that ive owned it since 2000
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get richard @ accel garage to have a look at it his number is 99391426....i reckon he will pretty much fix whatever is wrong it
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As you can see now the later design 2stroke have that close squish.
Marine and boke not much difference
there is when we dont have later designs!thats what i was getting at
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drop a touch of oil down the plug hole then see what you get
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im not sure about marine stuff as we only play with dirt/road race bikes here....and there isnt a huge range of twostrokes anymore mainly KTM's and i dont work on those at all....of late we been trying to keep the twostrokes alive by fitting cr500/kx500 engines to the klx/kxf/crf
range...i say fu(k the whales.....save the two strokes!
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Well you are more then welcome to speak to john however he does not speak to anyone on the phone, the only way you would be able to speak to him is in person and he has no problem in speaking to anyone face to face.
What you have said about the Nascars is correct squish applies to any piston motor even a 2 stroke john setup, my 2 stroke jet motor and let me tell you the thing is like no other with the squish closed up it makes more power then any other 2 stroke motor and uses less fuel then standard, the guy tuning it could not understand !!!.
Getting back the RB you are correct 7thou Positive Deack 1mm head gasket equates to 33thou piston to head clearance. Regarding the clearance for the rods and crank i will have to find out. The crank i am using is a Z-tune stroker crank with crower conrods.
the guy tuning it could not understand????????who was that?anyone that has half an idea with twostrokes knows that most if not all original squish bands on two strokes (even competition off the shelf high revving mx bikes)have an excessive squish from the factory.......one of the first things we did since i was a kid was bubble gum the piston crown on our brand new never started race bikes and tighten up the squish.....sometimes we welded the chamber and changed the angle/width.... the changes had dramatic effects on the lower end power/response.....generally the larger the engine the bigger gap they had/require for instance with say a kx80 engines we used around .7 and kx500/cr500 around 1mm this obviously has many variables such as which fuel is used....sometimes we had diffrent head/cylinder/chamber combo's for diffrent tracks.....nice job by the way.....good to see someone putting in attention to detail
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the only way to go
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IF you are referring to the 'Grazed Rim', it was the rear left that had the gutter scratch/graze, but, it was the rear right that cracked!
I have a new rim in place of the cracked rim and still have the scratched rim (which I touched up with some paint and nail polish clear) on my car.
OK!
no...my point is "i never hit anything" how ever this post contradicts your claim....wouldnt you agree?
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To the OP.......dude you might want to edit a post of yours in the r35 parts section
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Hi mark....welcome! id say your post is better off in a diffrent section....im sure someone will move it sooner or later.....eccs refers to the efi system.....does it have spark plugs down the centre of the engine or are they offset to the intake side?
.....now old pops would have been a bit of a stud in his day,being mazda's "sportscar" of the seventies,the RX3 gave a shake up to the gtr in the japanese touring car class spoiling nissans chance of 50 wins in a row and for some reason appears to be the most desirable model.....so here is a bit of nostalgia for the younger guys to show them it wasnt about how loud your stereo was,how bright your neons are or how silly you can make your car look with 50 inch wheels.....it was the begining of the era that got the boys with V8s worried and taught them the meaning of respect and killed off the term "jap crap".
....call me biased
Mazda Rx3Gt Restoration
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
ok good to see some interest.....heres some more pics as ive stripped it down