BHDave

The hks manifold doesn't sit the turbo in the same place. It is actually sitting lower and slightly further back. Also it is bottom mount (for lack of a better term) rather than side mounted as the stock manifold. The provision for an extenal gate on the manifold can be blocked simply by using a hks 38mm ex gate gasket gasket and a thick steel plate bolted in place Because of the change in position you will have to fabricate a new compressor inlet, new compressor outlet, new oil and water lines, new oil return, and new dump pipe (and possibly front pipe too). The manifolds look a million times better than the stock cast item, with individual runners rather than the factory log design. I'll have one on my car in the not too distant future. It's sitting in the garage atm.

theres a little box looking thing below the wiper motor mounted to the back of the strut tower. It may be a bit dirty

If your belt is a new genuine one it will have marks on it that line up against the cam gears. Even if it's a bit old you should still be able to see the marks if you look closely. I dont know for certain that a non genuine belt will have the marks.

Easiest check will be to remove the top timing cover and rotate the engine so it is sitting with cylinder one at TDC (0 on your crank timing mark) The cam gears should have the timing mark line up with a pair of marks on the back of the cam cover (sounds a bit vague but you'll see what i mean). It sounds like your belt is a bit loose too so you'll probably have to tension it up while you're there.

yep

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1 Heres a shot of my r32 engine bay with rb25. Top right next to the turbo you can see the dropping resistor. I know the r33 doesn't have it here though as i had to wire my r32 one into my rb25 engine loom.

Heres the pinout diagram for the rb25 ecu, it has a few holes in it but shows you which pin is which. Combined with the wiring diagram it tells you everything you need to know, except where the unit is mounted. Best guess is it will be in the drivers side rear quater panel behind the boot trim. I cant upload the wiring diagram as the file is too big but you can find it here http://www.meggala.com/rb25detenglish.html Basically, pin 104 is the one that controls the fuel pump speed. By chopping this wire (as mentioned above) it will stop the pump trying to drop it's speed. You may find now that the tps isn't reading 0V after you cleaned the TB and so the ecu thinks you have your foot on the throttle and so doesn't drop the pump speed. On the wiring diagram down the bottom, just left of centre you will see the dropping resistor with RB25DET and a bit of jap next to it in brackets. Looks to be connected via a 2 pin plug, same as in an r32, where the resistor hides i have no idea. Alternately you should be able to disconnect the control unit (4 pin plug) rather than chop the wire. good luck

It will depend on the type of boost controller you run, but you will be running a huge duty cycle to maintain it i'd think. You are better off getting an HKS (or equivalent) adjustable and tighten it up so your ebc doesn't need to work as hard.

In new york, no. In sydney, yes. Petroject

If you keep getting a wet plug in cylinder 4 it will be worthwhile pulling the injectors out and getting them checked/cleaned aswell, though as has been said coils and plugs are the first logical steps.

I've done it a couple of times on an rb25 aswell, didn't need to remove the top half of the plenum, just the throttle body and coolant bleed at the front. On rb20 i didn't even need to remove the throttle body.

This is a common problem in cars that have had engine swaps. It's to do with the wiring of the eccs relays. Basically when wired correctly the eccs relay maintains power to the ecu for a second or so after the ignition is switched off which is when the pfc saves it's files. If the car was an auto previously it makes it even more likely as the eccs trigger wire runs through the auto computer, which if unplugged doesn't trip the relay and so the pfc is running constantly off the backup power.

the standard r33 tps is a 0-4V signal. Should read 0 or there abouts at closed throttle and near enough to 4 at WOT

Thats reversion, not compressor surge. Compressor surge is where the turbo(s) is trying to pump more air than the engine can swallow and so you get the chuffing sound as the air bounces (for lack of a better term) back through the inlet. On a single turbo setup its commonly associated with turbos that have very large compressors in relation to the turbine.

180k plus, original rb20 gearbox, alloy subframe bushes.......no whine (but a bit of a rattle down low)

Generally followed by snap oversteer. Not a good handling trait in anyones books. Even with the white line suspension works package it will still tend to understeer and snap, it's just a little more controllable......

The type of PFC you run will come down to the loom you decide to run as there are generally (cant say definately as i haven't played with a GTR loom) differences in the ecu pinouts. I personally would be looking to get ahold of an R32/33GTR loom, particulary if you still have all the gtr afm's, sensors and the like as it will make life alot easier when it comes to plugging in your PFC. I'd then use the corresponding PFC. If your lucky the 32GTR loom may even plug straight in. I am running an rb25det in an r32 using r33 loom and pfc with no issues. And yes the AC and Power steering idle step up still works. Have fun.

It could also be the fuel pump speed control circuit. I don't know exactly how the r33 runs it but on a 32 you have a big dropping resistor in the engine bay. if that is unpluged you have exactly the symptoms you are describing. Basically, when the car is at idle it tries to drop the fuel pump speed, goes open circuit, puts no power to the pump and the car stalls. You can chop the fuel pump speed control wire at the ecu (if you dont mind chopping wires as a check) and the car will then run the pump at full speed all the time. If it doesn't stall then you know the problems is with the speed control. You could also listen for the pump when you have the car running, if it suddenly stops when you let the car return to idle then it could well be the same thing. There are also some aftermarket pumps that dont like having a lower voltage and could be struggling to pump the fuel (if you have one that is) hope that gives you another lead to follow anyway. Cheers

Because 33's run stupid rich at the top end, i assume. Plus it gives a good base to work off when installing more mods at a later date.

It's the SR20 The front guards definately look pumped, the rears are stock and lipped and it's low as all f*&k

6 cars? Thats ****ing pathetic. On the bright side, Stodart's boys finished, it'll be the most points he's got in one race since Webber pulled a 5th out of his arse in Melbourne.

Looks like my old rb20 ecu has the same part number so if you cant get it sorted with the new chip let me know and we can sort something out.

Sorry mate, Sold it about an hour ago. Cheers Dave

Dont forget, Ray loooooves Battlers. He's mad for them.

It's telling you it's the wrong ecu! There are some differences in the engine loom that i know of between early and late model r32 gtst's and i have heard that there are differences inside the ecu as well but cant confirm. I was talking to a bloke a while back who was saying he had swapped ecus and popped the new one. On opening there were a fair few differences between his old one and the popped one.