BHDave

It's the old style stage 2 highflow (rated around 480hp when they were still sold) It will be a bit laggier than the current highflows that are sold by GCG which are pretty much the original stage 1 highflows (450 hp) It wasn't as bad as it looks, in the end i just got used to driving above 4k when i wanted to go fast and it used to come on boost hard and spin up the wheels from 4500 to redline easily in second. Trouble was on the 1st-2nd change it would drop back below the boost threshold so you couldn't keep it going through 1st and second. Injectors went in and shortly after that the car developed a mystery missfire and the engine started to get a bit tired (probably form being driven over 4k all the time). I wound up the boost to 15psi at the end as i didn't really care if i popped the engine and it went even quicker, regularly breaking traction in third. Seat of the pants it was making a fair bit more than the 173. In the end i chucked an rb25 in the car. Running the same turbo and a manifold with a piss weak home tune it made a very easy 200rwkw on 14psi. A/f in the 11s. Still a bit slow to come on boost though.

The dropped compression on one cylinder is the decider. It should still run (if a bit rough) but it won't be making a miraculous recovery. I enjoyed pulling my old rb20 apart. It's nice to see what sort of damage you have done to the engine after flogging the crap out of it for 2 years. In my case very little, just rings and bearings really, if i hadn't been planning on an rb25 swap it could have been rebuilt and gone back in.

There'a a thread in the maintenence forum. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+engine+failure Most failures are due to something, whether, k's, abuse or poor tune. My rb20 just got very tired after about 180k and constant abuse. When pulled down it was in pretty good condition considering, just worn bearings and rings, everything else was in pretty good condition.

Go the new plugs if you are going to the bother of pulling the existing one's out then as it's a prick of a job becuase of the amount of stuff that has to come off to get to the plugs. Though i did mine in 5 minutes this evening as i now have external coils

You better not :chairshot Now 1.5 bar without exploding seems plausible. Im guessing you have one of the original style td06 highmount kits with the extra injector mounts in the cross over pipe. Nice one. Should easily be capable of 200rwkw plus, closer to 250rwkw actually.

And if the car has been running fine with the plugs at 1.1mm for 60k whats the point in gapping them down? I ran a 1.1 plug gap on my rb20 up until it was making 165rwkw with no problems. I only started to gap the plugs down once i swapped the turbo and started winding in the boost. If it is staring to miss now but hasn't before then i would just be getting a new set of plugs. I tend to do mine at 10k anyway as i run copper plugs and previously ran platinums swapped at 40k.

Are the td-05's still in production? I thought they had been superseded by the T517/8 series. Though if they are still around i have a couple of mates running td05 18Gs on sr20's with good results. The trust turbos are plain bearing, non water cooled so you have to block off the water lines.

I'm more interested to know why you decided to post this dribble in more than 1 section. You haven't given any details or asked any questions. Whats the point?

Thats not good, you are getting oil surge. What type of oil are you running and how hot is the car when you are doing this because i wouldn't expect to have problems as the oil pick up is up the front of the sump and the oil would be sloshing to the front under braking. Do you have a bent sump by any chance?

More boost! But thats my answer to everything. I'd get used to what you have then go for more 2530 + rb25 = response. You'll have to start rolling on the throttle rather than stomping on it you lucky punk.

both the bkr and bcp are coppers. Both fit though the bcp is the copper equiv for rb20 and 26, the bkr is the copper equiv for rb25. generally the plugs with IEX (i think) at the end of the part number are iridiums.

What i ment by that was the coppers initially provide a better spark then iridiums/platinums. but within a few thousand ks they perform about the same and by 10k or so they are starting to get a bit past it, not that they are completely rooted after a couple of thousand ks

Copper's give a better spark initially then start to wear. Within a couple of thousand k's theres nothing in it. iridiums give a more consistant spark for longer. If you get iridiums you can get 100k on a stock, sedately driven car according to ngk literature. If you get copper's im sure you could get 30k plus if you baby the car and it is still stock (ngk state 20-40k from memory). Just be prepared for the inevitable miss fires associated with worn sparks at high load/high revs. For coppers get bkr5es-11 for stock car, bkr6es-11(or -8 if you experience miss firing) for slightly modded car, bkr7es for heavily modded car. For platinum/iridium equivalent check the ngk aussie website. You can find it on google.

It could be coils, It could be plugs. How old are the sparkplugs? What type? Any mods? Any extra info can help with diagnosing the problem.

Can the duty cycle of the solenoid be adjusted using the evc? If so then you should probably drop it down a bit to bring the turbo on a bit slower. I have seen guys running 100% gain on blitz ebc's and on the dyno it was causing boost to bounce around wildly. You will also find that the gauges you are using to check boost aren't properly calibrated. my DSBC reads very high (1.2bar when making ~1bar) vs my boost gauge which reads slightly high.

The crank pulley of the rb25 is thinner as is the power steering pulley on an rb25 as the power steering pulley only has 3 ridges on the belt instead of 4 like with rb20 as the rb20 has a big pig of a p/s pump due to the hydraulic hicas. I am running an rb25 with rb20 accessories atm. everything lines up, it's just a matter of replacing the belt for the P/s. If you can check that the p/s shaft of an rb20 pump is the same as an rb25 pump you could run the aftermarket rb25 setup.

BCPR6ES is the copper plug you are after. It has a .8 gap. If you want a 1.1 gap get the BCPR6ES-11 Just remember that copper plugs need to be changed every 10,000ks or so where as platinums go for 40,000.

I'd go the wait and see option. Chances are the current clutch will start to slip but it may not. If it does then an upgrade to a 1060 pressure plate and 9 puck clutch would be worthwhile. You could then sell of your existing clutch for a reasonable price too as it should still be in reasonable condition. I am currently running the 1060 with 9 puck and honestly there is minimal extra pedal weight over stock (i think it has a modified pivot point in the pressure plate) and the 9 puck isn't particulary harsh for day to day driving. I dove mine daily up until a couple of weeks ago and honestly it was pretty nice and could be ridden a bit too. You will also find it bites hard if you let the clutch out quickly. This is behind a 200rwkw RB25. It is an allround nice clutch to drive, i highly recommend it. I have not driven a car with the 800kg version though so can't comment on additional pedal weight with that pressure plate.

Or you could chop the flange's off and have t2 or t3 flanges welded on. I did that on my current manifold and works a treat.

Can the AVCR be run in manual mode with boost set by playing with the ratio and gain settings the same as a Blitz iD or DSBC? It could be worth while to see if you can acheive more that way.

That's what rb30 bottom ends are for

Once again, sorry about that. I thought you had reposted the original diagram and sarcastically stated that i was right and you were wrong (fairly typical of some of the people on NS.com) which pissed me off as i thought you were attacking my knowledge so i returned the favour. Sorry again. Dave

Sorry mate, i got it wrong. My appologies. Turns out i cant read.

Posting the same diagram isn't going to help, Grab a multimeter and go and check it. You will notice 2 plugs coming off the box that houses the tps, one is the throttle valve which is off or on as you have posted a digram for and one is the tps (a variable signal funnily enough) which you have missed altogether. The problem with refering back to workshop manuals without actually knowing what your talking about is you tend to get it wrong.

Or nissan. A new pump is only worth 130 or so i think.