BHDave

Yeah, i think you will struggle to make it fit

You will need an ecu pin out diagram for your car. That will tell you which wire you need to splice into.

yes. For fuel pump only, no. For bigger injectors, yes.

Petroject in Parramatta should have them as well as they are a sard distributor. You may want to check the plugs too as the sards have a denso plug from memory rather than a nissan plug (unless they came with plugs).

After everything said above, no one has mentioned that the turbo pictured has t2 flanges and so wont bolt onto a skyline. It actually states in the literature that an after market manifold is required if the turbo doesn't fit. gold Gotta love the arret stamp.

I've racked up about 90k in a bit over 2 years since buying my car.

I found that the early guages dont plug straight in, the tracks on the back are a bit different. But it's easy enough to swap the blue faces onto the later dash.

Looks plumb back to me. the big pipe will return to the inlet infront of the turbo. The small pipe runs to the manifold and gives the boost/vacuum signal and the other one that isn't connected possibly allows the bov to be used as a pop off valve by connecting the signal line there

That could be pretty funny......

What i find interesting is the brembos are only fractionally heavier for the disk/caliper combo than the stockers, and the Lotus are significantly lighter for near enough to the same performance. Any idea on the pad/fluid combo? Are we talking race pads or street/track compromise pads? Interesting reading though. Makes me wonder why i upgraded now.....Just kidding, big slotted disks are cool.

I'd send it back as it isn't what was advertised. Also an r32 turbo is worth maybe 200 bucks, i dunno what you paid for yours but if it was more than that i'd be giving the seller a massive serve. If you are worried about the play in the shaft i'd recommend taking it to some one who knows what they are looking at, particularly as the k's on it would be in doubt now too. You may also want to check the size of the water banjo bolts on the turbo as this will give you an idea whether it's of an early or late model r32 and also whether it will bolt up to your car without having to replace the lines.

It's a 0-5 volt on/off switch on the one you are thinking of, it's used by the auto computer. There is a second plug just below and forward of the tps that provides the variable 0-5 volt signal used by the ecu.

The stock coils aren't the greatest on an rb25. Seems to be limited to the 25 though, not the 20 or 26 which is a bit strange. You'll find the car will develop a miss around the point of peak torque over time at higher power if your coils are getting a little old. I'm considering a set of splitfires atm, or retro fitting my rb20 coils and ignitor as an interim measure

The problem with the high temp stuff is it's porous and so starts to rust if it isn't cured by heat, and lots of it. I used it the first time i did piping and had to pull the pipes off and repaint them 2 weeks later.

Anyone in sydney have a passenger side R32 GTSt engine mount for cheap. Pick up this week if possible. Cheers Dave

I have the pipe and bov in sydney. $50 bucks pick up. Cheers

Australia post has a 20kg limit and a size limit so that's a no go.

His was a turbo bolted onto a NA i think. As far as the conversion goes, try and get a hold of an rb25DE pinout diagram and an RB25DET pin out and wiring diagram for reference. Then have a look at the dash plugs and power plugs in particular, if they are a straight plug in it will make life alot easier. as far as evrything elso goes about the only thing youd need to do is swap the engine mounts. All anciliarys should hook up no worries. Worst case you'd have to swap the AC and powersteering from your current engine onto the new one.

Thats cos it was scared of all the RBs

Or more technically. do a continuity test across the exhaust turbine with a multimeter. Ceramic does not conduct, steel/alloy does. No highflow will retain the ceramic turbine. Like tango has said, it's fairly obvious as the exhaust housing outlet will have been machined out too, as well as the intake

Afraid I'm starting to doubt as well after my run yesterday. Same setup with richer mixtures as the tune needs a touch up and a manifold at 13psi i got 199.2. I've cleaned up the tune a bit and shes a bit quicker now but not 40kw quicker.

Just went for a spin and logged what happens when i hit the mystery cut. At exactly 6850rpm, it's a rev limiter, nothing else was even close to maxing out. Where's my extra 500rpm gone. stupid ecu.

Looks like a newer version of the one i have. If there are only the 4 wires in the main plug then the wiring is the same. The second small plug is to plug into other blitz stuff. Forgot to mention you need a boost signal to the back of the head unit, pick it up at the same point as your boost guage or tee into the boost guages line for it.

At what point does this happen? I am hitting a fuel cut at just on 7k. What is the rev limiter set at on the rb25?

Is this the older model with the monochrome display and 2 dials? I don't have an installation manual but have done it recently as it's fairly easy to install. Basically: On the solenoid there are 2 nipples, one marked "in" goes to the boost signal from the compressor housing or where ever it comes from. One marked "out" goes to the actuator. AS for wiring the head unit: Red is a switched ignition source, black is earth. blue (i think) and white go to the solenoid and should match colour for colour if you have a genuine solenoid. good luck Dave