BHDave

Either way you wouldn't be able to run more than 1 bar through it for long before the ceramic turbine comes unstuck

Yeah, you can change the gear oil at a later date no problem. Or you can just give the gear box guys some redline and have them put it in (if you trust them). As far as the clutch dragging, i'd make sure the fluid in the system is new and bleed it first before buying a master or slave cylinder. You may save yourself a bit of cash. Mine likes to start dragging after a while but is fixable with a fluid change.

Got one in sydney, i can post.

It may be worth getting a new one knocked up by pirtek then. I had 2 water lines and an oil line made up in braid for $130. Not as pretty as the apexi ones but effective.

I read it as crud poser. I have no idea what it's supposed to mean, i don't get half the plates i see anyway though as i cant be stuffed thinking about it for more than 2 seconds. Damn A.D.D. Read any thread on Hot 4s and they all have 4 pages of crap at the end before the mods lock them. Guess that what happens when every one on the forum is under 16, whether physically or mentally.

If it's the line that runs around the back of the head you may be lucky and be able to remove the rubber section of line and hook the braided line straight up to the fitting with a clamp. If that isn't possible then i'd be looking at getting a replacement line made up with a barbed fitting to fit into the rubber hose on the back of the head. Id be guessing but i reckon the the fittings should match the block thread on a jap kit. Worst case try earls in Silverwater.

I have no idea why it is clicking but it will be switching the electric window motor on and as the window is up (or down) it is pulling about 10amps and loading up the alternator, causing the revs to fluctuate slightly. Try tapping the passenger window up switch with the window already closed and it should have the same effect. As for fixing it, maybe have a look for a short in the wiring, or swap the unit.

Microtech offer a direct plug in replacement ecu for the r33 so installation will take you about half an hour as you only need to run a vacuum/boost line to the ecu and plug it in. As with all ecus there are good and bad results. I have read of some good results with the microtech. As for tuning, any reputible workshop will be able to tune them, check some dedicated rotary workshops too as alot of them use the microtech LT/MT ecus.

I'm not sure how it is wired in. More than likely there will be a relay in line with the power feed to the fuel pump. When the relay is tripped by the ecu it will parallel the dropping resistor so there is less voltage (or is it current, i cant remember my formulas now) going to the fuel pump so it runs slower. Or something along those lines. The ecu trips the relay when it gets a signal (or no signal) from the speed sensor wire and also a tacho input of some sort, indicating that the car is stopped and at idle.

On R32's the resistor is located on the passenger side strut tower under the bonnet.

When the car stalls is the fuel pump still running? Easily checked as the ignition will still be on so the pump should still be running. When i completed my engine swap i forgot to plug in the dropping resistor for the fuel pump speed so the car started and ran but as soon as the ecu tried to drop the speed of the pump when the throttle was closed the car would stall instantly. It sounds like it may be an electrical problem due to the intermittent nature of the problem. Have you checked the wiring on the turbo timer? The handbrake cut out may be causing issues.

You can make 200rwkw with the mods you have, it's just that the stock management will be dumping in way too much fuel at the top end to make that power. You absolutely have to have an safc at least to remove some of this fuel, your uni chip should be able to do it too but it has been tuned badly by the sound of it. Problem with the uni chip is it's inability to do a good job tuning bigger injectors and different afms. The thing is, when you start to push 1bar through the stock turbo you may be lucky and have it last a year, you may not and it'll last a month.

I like rb20's, having had one for a couple of years. But the SR is a better base engine in my opinion. It's lighter, it has more bottom end torque, it's smaller and after market goodies are cheap as. And they make the same power near enough so that seals it.

Unichips aren't the best and it sounds like the tune is a dud if you have lost so much power since the unichip was installed. The dump on it's own should gain a few kw at the top end and the intake wont hurt power. I'd get it retuned, or better yet get rid of the unichip and gain an instant 30kw, then get a decent aftermarket ecu and a good tuner and gain another few kw. Then wait for your stock turbo to cark it as you have found the limit of the stock setup.

Thats ****ed up. You'd have to pull the diff out and remove the rear housing to remove and replace the oil and reinstall it with a new gasket (if they use gaskets).

Yeah, it's common. You really need to replace the gasket if you want to stop it completely, or use a heap of silicon which will last maybe 3 months or so if you are lucky

Yes it'll bolt up but you'll have to swap sumps and get a front diff, driveshafts and the like. You'd be better of getting a stagea rb25 as it already has the 4wd sump

I had an 81 sigma that eventually had an entire respray over 5 years in different colours of red and was carrying an extra 10kg's of bog by the end Do new rings and shocks count as mods?

It'll take them less than 10 minutes to swap it if the cam belt is already off. It's only 4 bolts.

No worries

I have one. Dunno about excellent working order but it worked fine when the engine was still in the car. pm me if your interested. Cheers Dave

My r32 gtst made it to about a genuine 180k (based on a service sticker i found having 60k more than the odometer when i bought the car). Swapped the engine out as it was getting tired and blowing a bit of oil into the intake. The last 60k were done with better than 160rwkw and the last 20k with 175rwkw. Stripped the motor today and found everything was in pretty good condition considering, with a fair bit of blowbye obvious on the sides of the pistons and a bit of excessive wear on a couple of the big end bearings and some minor scoring on one of the main bearings. Other than that the bores still had obvious hone marks and there were no busted ring lands, damaged rings or anything like that.

The only difference with the belts is the RB25 uses a 3 tooth belt for power steering rather than the 4 belt that the rb20 uses. I just used a 3 belt to fit the crank pulley and fitted it on the rb20 power steering pump. Dunno about the rb20 loom being fully compatible with the 25. I swapped in the 25 loom. From what i have gathered for my swap you wouldn't have either factory boost control or idle speed control. You also wouldn't have the idle step up for the AC on (you have to wire it separately anyway when swapping into an r32. Also (though this may be an error in my info) there a a couple of injector and ignition pin outs swapped around. Otherwise looks alot simpler than using rb25 loom as i did. About the only thing you may need to do to use an rb20 loom is extend the wires for the auxiliary air control valve and swap the injector plugs for rb25 ones and wire in the vvt. It's worthwhile swapping the oil pressure sender and temp guage sender too just to make sure they work properly with the r32 dash. Good luck with the swap.

It's the same on pretty much every series one RB25 i've seen. Including mine. It actually has a blanking plug on it so no problem. If it had no plug then i'd be concerned. Mine works fine, though i know where blind_elk is coming from as my rb20 had both wired in and if plugged in then it is simply an open/closed switch.

I have one. Add $10 postage and it's yours. Cheers Dave