fr0st

I got a new one... People that sit right on your ass in there automatic shitbox when your trying to do a hill start. How hard is it not to leave enough room so you don't have to drop the clutch just so you don't roll back into them. Makes me wish I had a bee*r so I can't launch flames in there general direction as warning shots.

Reverse nuts ftw

It doesn't matter if its a slopey curb or pack of midgets... you still hit something. The fact that your not taking it serious scares me, you put yourself, your passengers and the car (!!!) in danger. If you have the money for a GTR then spend some of that excess cash in taking it to a track or skid pan and get the stupidity out of your system. Have some respect for the car and all the hard work you've put into getting it. Just cause you have insurance doesn't mean you can be reckless on the roads. By all means enjoy your car, just do it sensibly.

Definitely doesn't like the highflow, rich and retard would explain you lack of midrange. Fuel pump and injectors could also explain why its an animal after 5.8k (lean out) if your still using the stock items.

Time for skid pan training me thinks... (as stated a couple of pages ago )

I was just asking...

I can remap R32 ECU's aswell (useful arn't I? ) Go halves with tiesto in buying me a wideband and I'll do it for ya

usherly... do you have a skyline?

My intercooler was a custom job that the previous owner gave me. It just hooked straight up to the stock piping so I didn't have to run a crossover pipe or anything. The crossover pipe isn't that much of an issue. IIRC the only things you need to do extra is chop the radiator fan a little so it clears the pipe and cut a hole for the piping. To do the hole you need a hole saw, the GTR and GTS-T chassis is the same so there a place all setup to cut. The reo (front re-enforcement bar) and front bar need to be cut to fit the FMIC in there, its nothing too major that can't be solved with an angle grinder or jigsaw. If you work fast you could get it done in under a day, mine took me a day and a half being my first time and all. If you do a search I'm fairly sure there are threads with pictures (might be for R33's but its virtually the same) for installs. Give me 2 weeks and bottle of bourbon (not a beer person ) and I'll come help you out.

Can't you do it yourself? Its not really that hard to do, it was the first major thing I did to my car on my own. I don't mind coming and helping after exams either if you get stuck. What FMIC have you got? just a china hybrid copy?

First lesson, engine + suspension > bodykits and flashy colored lights

I asked at work about the keg CO2 bottles. Bottles are 2.6kg and $260 to buy, they fill them in an exchange program. Its $20 to get it filled at beer tech (sp?) in Balcatta. I wouldn't mind trying this if you ever find someone that will refill retrofitted fire extinguishers. Ebay has a few nitrous solenoids that would work (and can be used for nitrous )

GODTHRILA, I'll definately be in touch over the uni holidays. I'll let you know how it all goes R DIRTY 3, nup. They do exist but don't work, the ones that do work don't work very well. Lidar jamming can be done and works really well however it's also very illegal and they can tell at the gun that your jamming them, whether they act on it is anyones guess.

There are radar detector detectors but WA cops have no reason to use them because there not illegal here. They only way they can tell is if you have it mounted to the windshield where everyone can see it.

Just a little OT but... GODTHRILA, have you ever experimented with modding antenna's on radar detectors to increase sensitivity? I have a crappy cobra detector I never use because I can see multanovas before it can. I was going to cut off the standard antenna down to the waveguide and strap one on sized for ka band only. With a bit more further modding I could make it into a remote unit for the front of the car (so you can strap an even bigger antenna to it ) I was just going to go multanova hunting to test it out, but if you've got the equipment to test it out properly I'd be keen to come see you.

haha thats a great outcome Glad your dad got his car back in 1 piece, very lucky man

Do I get my cookie now?

Do they just let you go in any fill up any old bottle? Like polished up fire extinguishers with new fittings? I wouldn't mind having some to play with, getting a solenoid that can take the pressure could be a problem.

There chunks of piezo screwed into the block. They'll have a resonant frequency but not in the range of the knock frequency. The frequency of knock changes with rpm so (I'm assuming) that nissan kept the frequency response flat in this region and the used knock board in the ECU to provide discrimination. Simple answer, non resonant

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php You even get pictures

It depends how far you take it, You could put in forgies, use a RB26 head, new turbo, manifold, ECU etc. and get the bill into the 10k area If you were to build an RB30 with all the standard gear on your RB25 you can run it off your stock management. Alot of people do this to break the engine in. After that you can just keep adding to the beasty to get it where you want. If you manage to find a good condition RB30 bottom end you might not have to rebuild it. Otherwise you'll have to go through Nissan/Holden to get new pistons, bearings and head studs. Get the rods shot peaned and the crank cleaned up. New timing belt aswell (forgot about that). You'd be doing that for an RB25 rebuild anyway so I doubt it would cost any more (probably less). I'd get reading, you'll learn a lot from that thread About the torque, 300kw RB30 torque > blown LS1 torque. There evil

Did I mention that someone else made said 300rwkw on a non-rebuilt stock RB30 bottom end. Bet it was the best $150 he spent on his engine We could always drop it into my 32... I got a R33 gearbox in there already just screaming for an overpowered engine

Have a quick look at the RB30 Results thread. I think it was cubes saying that when he used a stock RB20 turbo he made 100kw by 2000 rpm and a max of 180 at 5000 rpm (iirc). A larger turbo should shift the power curve towards the redline and stop the wheelspin You won't get 300rwkw off the stock turbo however.... or stock engine management... or stock fuel system. Theres alot of money thats goes along with it. And those prices don't include labor, thats if your building it yourself. It's not a cheap exercise, but if your thinking of building rebuilding an RB25. I dout it'll cost any extra to do the RB30 instead.

If you already have an RB25 why not buy a RB30 bottom end (~$100) and rebuild it with nissan parts (~$900) and put it back together again. Add your head studs and gaskets on top of that and you have a new engine of monstrous proportions (300rwkw on a stock bottom end has been done). Go read the RB30 thread in the FI section... cmon do it... you know you want to

The exact same thing happened when I put the wrong eeprom in the stock ecu... Idles fine but rich, it'll let you limp it around but as soon as you hit about 3k rpm it'll fuel cut. I could hear the turbo spooling but it went nowhere. You may have rooted a sensor, or your ecu.