fr0st

Sorry I wrote that thinking he was going to inject it after the turbo. Isn't static compression mechanical but dynamic compression related to the inlet pressure? Hence why turbocharged engines run a lower static compression because they achieve a higher dynamic compression under boost. I'm an electronic engineering student so I'm probably wrong Control systems I can do... search ebay for a hobbs pressure switch, I think there about $30. They're adjustable to activate from something like 3- 10psi. If you want to get even more complicated you can make a little thermistor circuit to throw a relay over a certain temperature. In series with the pressure switch you'd have a sprayer that would turn on when the temperature has risen and your boosting it.

I get what your trying do but I don't think it will have the results you want. RE: you comment in the wasteland about CO2 being natural cold. The cold comes from releasing a high pressure gas into low pressure. Its the opposite of what turbo's do - air goes in, gets compressed and heats up. Whereas with CO2 its compressed and getting released to atmo so it absorbs heat. You can do it with any gas, n2o for instance. Google refrigeration if you don't get what I mean, I'm crap at explaining things lol The main problem with what your trying to do is surface area. How much of the air going through the pipe will touch the pipes cold surface? and at the rate that the air is moving, how much time will it be in contact with the pipe? Air is an insulator so if you cool it, it won't transfer the 'cool' around to the rest of the inlet charge very well. Take your inter cooler as an example. The fins inside increase surface area to the inlet charge while the fins on the outside increase surface area to the ambient air. Most surface area mean more contact with a cool surface = better cooling. Another thing is the amount of bars/tubes in the inter cooler. The larger the inter cooler, the slower the air moves through it. Kind of like sucking on a straw vs. sucking on a hose to get the same amount of water out. Water has to move faster through the straw to keep up with the hose. This increases the time that the air is in contact with the inter cooler fins, so you get more cooling. The inter cooler is probably the perfect place to spray CO2, not too mention the easiest

Your forgetting with pipes that the layer of air touching the pipe isn't moving. All the air passes down the middle of the pipe, air isn't like water in the sense that if you cool the outside it will transfer to middle. I don't think it would have the slightest effect on inlet temperature purely because there isn't enough surface area and the air is moving too fast. If you introduced more surface area in the pipe your creating a restriction and you'd lose power at the expense of temperature. If you spray the inter cooler you already have plenty of surface area to work with and you not adding any further restriction to the inlet pipes.

I'm not entirely sure it would, atleast not severely. Any air past the turbo has to either go through the engine or recirculated and your not passing any CO2 through the AFMs. CO2 isn't combustible so it won't lean you car out like an air leak would. When you injecting it into the inlet pipe your raising the inlet pressure, so the turbo doesn't have to work as hard to keep the pressure up meaning less air is drawn through the AFM = less fuel. It also mean less fuel and air in the cylinder which isn't a good thing for power

Just thinking out loud... Your injecting an inert gas into the inlet pipe, which lowers temperature (reducing pressure) but also adding more gas (raising the pressure). If you injected the gas and had the same amount of air and fuel in the cylinder as usual but with some CO2, it would have a similar charge size as without the CO2 since its denser. Since the CO2 won't burn, its just sitting in there taking up space, wouldn't that increase the compression ratio? Something like - Mixture 1 is a normal inlet charge, normal temperature Mixture 2 is denser because its cooler, but now has CO2 in it so it takes up the same volume as mixture 1. If you burned mixture 2 in a cylinder what would happen? It would still burn, but there is less space for the fuel/air to be compressed into because of the presence of the CO2, therefore higher compression ratio and higher chance of pinging?

Congrats on the new car! Have respect for the car and you won't go wrong. You don't need to go fast to pull women in a GTR anyway I got my GTS-T at 18 after driving a corrolla ... my advice would be to book a advanced driving training at AHG and get in on a skid pan day. You may think you'll never get into a situation but trust me you will The AHG course changed my driving pretty dramatically, the skidpan was just fun haha. It'll show you your limits and the limits of the car, you will come unstuck when your pushing yourself. Its a lot better if thats on a skid pan than a public road riddled with poles and curbs. Sign up for SAUWA and get in on the next cruise. Once you see and hear some of the other cars you'll be hooked, let the mods begins

its N2O mitchy We have big CO2 bottles for kegs at work and they only cost like $30 to fill. There about half the size of a scuba tank. I'm not sure where they get filled but BOC would be the best best, it'd cost like $20 tops. Welding stores might also be another one, I think they use co2 sometimes aswell. Is this for a homemade inter cooler sprayer? I was thinking about doing it with water but this looks like way more fun I'd just do it for the CO2 purges

I dout it would be shorted at the back of the deck, unless your wiring is dodgy. Shorting is when the two wires that goto your speaker are well... shorted lol Things that would do are blown voice coils (measures almost 0 ohms), worn wires shorting to the chassis and the two wires touching either behind the deck or at the speaker. If you can't find anything wrong, check that the speaker still works buy putting on it another stereo, if that channels is still the problem run new wires

I dout you killed it, the output stage is usually (if not always) short circuit protected. The chips they use as amplifiers have short circuit, over current and over temperature protection. The main thing is either 2 or all 4 channels are amplified on the same chip. If one shorts the rest go down as well. Home theater speakers are usually 8 or 4 ohms, car speakers are almost all 4 ohm. Using an 8 ohms speaker definitely won't kill it. I'd be rechecking the loom, if you disconnect every line going to a speaker and then get a known working speaker and connect it up to one channel at a time you can rule out an amplifier fault if it works. I'd say one of your home speakers has blown a voice coil and is shorting.

A red top ECU will run a silver top. You just plug it in, I've tried it and definitely works. You do lose your consult port, I'm not sure what else. Only internal difference is one uses a 256kbit eprom, the other uses a 512kbit eprom. Other than that there almost identical internally.

GTR injectors are a cheap upgrade

Does the R34 turbo have the same size rear housing as the VG30DET? I've got a series 1 R33 turbo to go on in the next few weeks, can't wait

What about manifolds? and maybe cat delete pipes? You might have a hard time finding your niche, if your workmanship is up there (which it sounds like it is) you'll get the performance crowds attention and you'll be able to price it accordingly. On the other hand theres probably more ricer types wanting cheap exhausts for there shitboxes. If you ever need an RB20 test mule I'd be more than happy to help out Best of luck with your new business

white smoke or black smoke? White smoke is water, most likely from the turbo. Black smoke is fuel which means your running rich. Rich is safe so nothing to worry about there. EDITED: I got it wrong... my bad

Woodvale is good for me. I hope they have coffee... 8:30 on a sunday morning aint gonna be pretty

I can do it, but I don't have a wideband so I can only remove boost cut, move the rev limiter and whatnot. Anything with fuel maps is kind of risk without a way to check it. IIRC Hyperdrive charge about $700 for a full tune using the stock ECU

Let me be the first to say Since the V engines you either looking at twins or one complex bitch of a manifold. Then you have issues with the stock compression and engine management. There was some kind of commy wagon with a turbo at the last dyno day I was at that pulled 195rwkW with over 200k's on the engine. I'd say your better off selling and buying a V8 or maybe getting an XR6T if your into the aussie turbo. A v8 will definately sound better. Your not going to get a good answer on here, definately try a holden/commodore forum.

I got 520km off 47L this week. 9L/100km I remapped my ECU about 3/4-1/2 way through the tank. Removing R&R made a huge difference... leaning out 5000 -> redline helped aswell when I felt like thrashing the ol rb20 It needs more timing so there is still room for improvement

Your still only using a narrowband oxygen sensor so you will only ever be able to tell if its running lean or rich, not the actual AFRs. I think you'll find it will run around stoich < 3000 rpm because its using the oxygen sensor to stay at stoich (closed loop). If you give it some revs it should drop into the rich section since your running open loop and the stock ECU is very rich. If not your O2 sensor may be screwed.

I'd be in for sure. I need a wax for a 15 year old paint job. At the moment I'm using Mequiars Tech Wax, but always wanted to try Zymol. The car is a dark blue pearl, would the Carbon or Cleaner Wax be better?

R32's have rich and retard, its just not as extreme as the R33 version of it. I managed to hit it with the standard turbo when it starts spooling. You'll gain power from going to a RB25 turbo, but your still going to be running stupidly rich. You'll probably get the same amount of power increase by a chip & tune as you will by upgrading the turbo. I chipped my ECU myself with R&R removed and its alot better to drive. I'll post a guide soon, I just have bulk exams and assignments at the moment.

Boost controller may do it, but not a bleed valve. Its just the turbo running out of airflow, a bigger one would help (maybe RB25?). Mine drops from 13 down to 11ish with a bleed valve

I think it would be a good thing to have. Not everyone needs to paint panels, it could be for interior parts, sub boxs, cam covers etc. I'd love to know how to get a professional looking paint job on my new sub box

You say that now.. .but once you have the power you want to use it. It's way too addictive, you'll get bored of the power you have and you'll want more, it NEVER ends Asks Mr. Kleets about GTR spin outs

As long as your AFM is working correctly I don't see why this wouldn't work. The ECU calculates you need X amount of fuel for Y amount of air sensed by the AFM. Aslong as the AFM is accurate then the calculated AFR's should be the same as the actuals (or reasonably close). The stock R32 maps go down to 10.6 AFR's (calculated), if you bumped with up to 11.5 I dout it would lean out aslong as your fuel pump was up to the task.