fr0st

This was my run on the exact same day, same dyno, same operators. Car is a R32 GTS-T with 3 inch turbo back (incl. 3" cat), FMIC, pod w/CAI, GTR fuel pump, standard turbo. It spikes to 13psi and drops off to 11-12 (bleed valve). Thats the standard ECU doing its magic I'm still yet to get hold of a laptop to check consult for the AFM maxing out but I think its just naturally rich for some unknown reason. Eeprom burner and a wideband should fix that when I get some more money

The RB20 MAF is good for ~220rwkw, Injectors are 200 ish I think.

I was the dark blue R32 there... I wasn't too impressed with my ECU My AFR's started in the mids 11's and dropped down to 10 With a lot of leaning out I should get up to 160rwkw (from 140) with the stock turbo. Are you still running the stock ECU? I think mine just hates me Yet more money to throw at the car

She's got my votes If you delete the cookie from the site, you can vote again Worst web devs ever

Black cars come up great with a good buffing, its the people that try to do it with those dodgy drill attachement buffer that give themselves whirl marks. Get yourself a random orbital buffer. They have a single buffing pad (usually about 6 inches) and they both spin and kind of vibrate (not sure how to explain it). Don't get a rotary buffer, they are very easy to put swirls in your paint if you don't know what your doing. You'll need a foam applicator pad and a microfiber pad for buffing. A full paint detail should go something like - Wash with detergent/degreaser Claybar Wash normally Polish (with cut if you have swirls) Wax

haha P plates? Please tell me its your sons car so you don't put me to shame Top quality job anway Have you considered moving the number away from the middle of the car? Gives it a bit more of a modified look IMO

I know my fifth is 110 at 3000 rpm so that makes it 275 at 7500 rpm rev limiter if that helps any

play r 32, you should probably invest in a wideband sensor like this Although you don't have closed loop, you should still be able to adjust your fuel maps so that when your cruising your sitting on an AFR of 15 or so to conserve fuel. Just get a mate with a laptop and go cruising I'm guessing your tuner probably only did a WOT tune if your using that much fuel EDIT: Just forgot, my record so far is 8.9L/100km with a fair bit of nanna driving. I got 470km off 42 L... gotta love the RB20

You won't need a tune. You fuel pressure reg keeps the pressure constant at the injectors so increasing the fuel pressure/flow before it won't affect it.

I'll give it a go, I just need to find something thin and strong enough to wedge in there. Cheers for the help Update - I got them back in!! It was an alignment thing like you said, I just had to push them gently evenly and they eventually went back in. I think I'll name my first born steve now

I was trying to bleed my brakes today and royally f**ked up. I had the brake pads out to put anti squeal stuff on them and was bleeding them while they were drying in the sun. Initially it was all good and it was bleeding fine but I pressed the pedal in too fast and 2 pistons extended out to the rotor I used a screw driver to get them back a few mm but they won't move any further. I tried a brake piston depressing tool but that didn't do anything. To top it off I can't get the caliper off the car to clamp the pistons in a vice or something. If anyone can help me out I'll buy you a carton or something (or cash I don't care). I don't think I'll be able to get a mobile mechanic to come out before saturday and I don't want to miss the skip pan day If anyone can help me out with a solution or a breaker bar or even a mobile mechanic that can come out I'd be very very grateful Cheers for the help -Matt

I got the exact same gauge. It sits on 500mm (ie down the bottom) at idle. You should have a little white box it connects to which should have a little knob (or equiv) you can adjust it with, either that or its on the back of the gauge. I didn't install mine so I'm not sure exactly where it is

IIRC the GCG Hi Flows are good to 260rwkw (~350hp). Just look over the group buy thread, theres heaps of info on them there. You have most of the supporting mods so I don't see why it wouldn't, maybe some cam gears/poncams to get it spooling earlier.

Are you AFM's maxing out? Could be boost cut at 15psi The fact that it happens after 20 minutes suggests that its probably a vibration or heat issue rather than something like a broken hose or connector. Are you running pods? are they supported by a bracket? It could be the connector on the AFM's, the solder inside the afm is known to crack with vibration but seem fine at idle. Just testing the voltage at idle isn't really a measure of how well your AFM's are working.

I just changed over the stock fuel pump to a larger one and had an the idea of using the old one for a water sprayer (for intercooler, not injection). Will a stock fuel pump handle water? I thought about heat being an issue since it won't be submerged but if its running for say 15 seconds at a time while the car is boosting it probably won't be much of an issue. Running it at less than full power might also be another solution. As far as I'm away petrol doesn't have any sort of lubrication in it at all (I think diesel does, it was on 5th gear ). It's probably really overkill, but it'll definately be enough to make a fine mist accross an entire front mount cooler. Cheers for the help -Matt

60 hours is alot of driving, the fuel alone would put alot of parents off. I did 25 and that was bad enough. IMO you'd learn alot more in an hour on a skid pan than 60 hours on the road. You wouldn't develop any road awareness but your car control would be greatly improved. Theres alot of things you can't practice on public roads and thats why alot of people get themselves into trouble. For example, Dad tells Johny Commodore that his car can't corner at 60km/h in the wet so he should never do it as opposed to Johny being told by an instructor to try and corner at 60km/h on a wet skid pan. The latter would scare the shit out of him and I bet he'd never try it again but if his dad told him not to he'd probably try it anyway on a public road. The hours just develops road awareness which is always a good thing, but with your parents in the car your also getting there bad habbits. Both my parents struggled to teach me to drive because they didn't know how, it was just habbit to them. They just kind of sat there and pulled me up on obvious mistakes while I learned for myself. I did driving lessons which sole focus is to stop you breaking the law so you can pass your driving test, its not about avoiding colisions and controlling your car. The government is just throwing shit and hoping some sticks, if they spent half the time conduction driver training as they did policing speeding we'd be far safer drivers.

'Mr Stoner' is a idiot, I dout he has half the intelligence of an average 'high powered' car driver. Cars don't make mistakes, drivers do. If a car is well maintained, asside from a freak high speed blowout, nothing should go wrong. Alot of young people who drive import love them to death, myself included. How many people driving shitboxs bother to change the tyres and brake pads when they should? I'd say pretty much everyone on this forum loves there cars (in a very non sexual way). As a result there alot better maintained than your average family car. If your interested in your car you take good care of it, alot of high performance car owners would fall into this category. I agree completly with driver training, I got my advanced driving training as a birthday present (I asked for it) and I'm doing a skidpan training day this week out of my own pocket. Driving with most of my mates scares the shit out of me, they have no idea how close they come to killing themselves or losing control. A part of being a good driving is knowing the limits of your car, since you have to pay a fair bit for driving training where do you think poor uni student P platers are going to test themselves? P platers are always going to want to find the limits of there car and until the government comes up with a decent solution, shit is always going to happen on public roads. I'd love to take my car to the drags, but being a 19 yr old uni student, I can't afford it.

Part number is 63132, I don't know where to check if its a genuine N1 but its adjustable and looks very similar to the nismo FPR's. $80 ono plus postage I'm in Perth Cheers

If you need an extra set of hands I wouldn't mind helping out. I have small hands so I can get all the nuts and bolts that get dropped into small places I'm thinking about building up an RB30 and wouldn't mind learning how to take out an engine so I can do it all myself (eventually).

Does anyone have a picture of a properly crushed BOV they could post up?

How'd you do that? Spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of kero and metho? 600km to a tank sounds nice... I managed 8.75L/100km at the pump last time and my AFM hasn't been cleaned in a long time. If I could push it a little further I'd be a very happy man

What pumps are people using? Some of the kits I've seen are using high pressure pumps (like a fuel pump I assume) and some ghetto writeup in a magazine using something similar to a wiper pump.

haha I won't deny that one In all seriousness, how can you compare a 1.6L engine to a 2.6L? You can't tell me VTEC would make that much difference (if any at all) to a conventional engine running a high lift cam when it comes to high rpm power delivery. Or is it just cause it can rev higher? If all other things were equal a 2.6L would flow 62.5% more exhaust gas at the same RPM right? so having a 1.6L at 11k RPM would be the same as a 2.6L at 6750 RPM? In that case I wanna see a 10k RPM RB20 running a TO4Z

Now thats some serious vtec yo The power curve would be interesting, civics are gutless in the low rev range in NA form, lowering the compression so you could run a decent amount of boost would kill it. My money is on it coming on full boost at 10k

Give me a couple of days and I should have part of my guide up for making a fiberglass sub enclosure. I'm using a 15inch that I had for my previous car because I could be bothered selling it and buying a new one. It sits in one of the back corners of the boot. Pretty much the area I masking taped off in the attached pic. Just repeat for the other side of the boot and your set. You'll lose access to your jack though if you don't make them removeable.