GTR1993

I feel your pain... i was defected down near morphett vale, exhaust too loud and 30mm too low straight to regency with my 32 GTR. H didnt really seem to care that i have just replaced all my suspension and bushes along with my subframe bushes, new tyres and the list goes on to actually improve the safety of the car. He goes on to say these things are fast and could outrun a cop car, i thought to my self well why the hell did i stop? ahah Does anyone know if GTR and GTST sroings are different? I thought gtst would be lighter grade as car is lighter...

ok i have done this on my R32 GTR and it is different to yours as i can see from the pictures. Going out of the hicas use should be the 2 high pressure lines going to the back. I remove them from the solenoid and from under the car, that should be no problems. Now in you pic i can see one line that goes into the solenoid that is fixed by a hose clamp. This is low pressure. In the gtr the line that comes from the power steer cooler u connect to that line. Once you have done this the solenoid is completly bipassed and it can be removed no problems. You dont want to block the lines off like you have done at the rear, that will kill the rear hicas stage of you power steer pump.

when i done mine the place was looking at having swap over units but not enough interest. He told me to bring it in and they measure it and match it to other stuff thats avalible.

honestly probably no one. Bring it to a cv place they can measure them up see if they can rebuild or what not.

holy shit i wanted them seen it too late

first thing i do when ever a car wont start, check spark then fuel...if there are these it will start.

I had this exact problem, bled coolant 3 times, new thermostadt the works, bought a new temp sender and fixed it right up.

I had the same probem in some of my cars with a power fc. I found the learn doesnt really do much. You need to tune the load cells where it is bouncing. I found that adding some fuel to the cell where the revs dop can stop the idel dropping. You can fiddel with it or bring it to a tuner should be fairly easy to fix.

Get some insulation or something on that dump pipe, extremly close to the ac lines and looks close to heater hoses too.

well then have u checked where the guages are connected? if they read zero at idel something definatly wrong. are they plumbed in independantly? you will have vacume at idel, if the guages have disconnected then they see atmospheric pressure and stay at 0 at all times.

So you have an aftermarket guage and factory one? could be a few things, both wastegates stuck open (not sure why that would happen) big boost leak (but then car should run rough as it will be running very rick when losing all the air after the afm) if they are ceramic turbos the exhaust wheels could be shattered? what mods std afm and computer system?

water temp oil pressure (get boost if you done have a elec boost controller for read out, not sure how accurate the tt is if it is then thats fine but hard to see) oil temp exhaust temp fuel pressure get them in that order, first 2 lines most important really

Honestly if i had to guage it it would be 5/10 on the f**k all meter. Rotational inertia has distance^2, there for having weight that is firther out is far worse. Looking at the disc sure its a bit firther out, and a bit heavier, but look at the tyre and rim, its huge compared to the disc in diameter and quite hefty. so for arguments sake if you have 5 kg at 20 cm radius its 0.2 kg m^2 then we take 5 kg at 40 cm radius its 0.8 kg m^2, you can see a 4 times increase.

you got the heat sheilds for the std manifolds mate?

oops my mistake, almost completly off. What happened was the T clamp wasnt done up, i run abour 24 psi boost so it pushed it off and i run map sensor so the car ran fine with massive leaks. The silicone was just still touching around the intercooler inlet as it couldnt come off completly as the body of the car held it on. on another note does the car splutter as it should run rich as with such a large boost leak if its AFM base computer

2psi on boost is a huge leak. Should be easy to spot, i had a pipe come completly off and still seen about 7 psi.

As a guide my SR20 and RB26 both have forged pistons and both have no oil in the catch cans. The sr runs no oil catch can at all and not one drop out the breathers.

Have you had it on the dyno to see volume of air coming out of the catch can? I have never used CP pistons, but i have read that there rings are pretty crap (here say from other people). maby a leak down test is needed to check the rings?

what are you trying to do exactly? If its dial them in just use lobe centers.

cheers

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.

Hey i have a R32 GTR with a pull clutch in it. The gearbox is noisy and i can get a 32 GTR box for a very good price. Do the 32 boxes have the bosses cast into them to tap so i can use the pull set up, or do i have to swap bell housings? I have done a search but most people are going the other way, pull to push. Cheers

quick question do you have to pull the motor or could you hold the motor up and drop the cross member and pull it off that way, or ends up taking longer then just pulling the motor?

taking them off wouldnt be a problem, AU falcon dont come with them from the factory. I leave them on where possible but when i have upgraded my datsun they had to come off, never had a problem.

its normal, when you bolt your wheel on that holds it on. the other side will wobble around they may need a bit of a tap to get them off.