GTR1993

I see, where yours is dented if that a tube on top or that is just aluminum plate that serves no purpose other then to protect the cooling fins? Im interested to pick up... Also the stock one has 2 pins there, how does this one fix to this spot? Is there holes tapped for bolts to go through?

yea and because the motor is rebuilt with a thicker head gasket, along witht he deck may or may not have been decked can also change where true 0 is, i threw it on the dyno and got some good gains and got the mixtures where they needed to be, i think the exhaust cam could still be holding in too much exhaust gasses (or the exhaust was too restrictive i cant rember if i still had the minature cat converter in it) as it didnt want to take much ignition timing. What timing can you put into these 26s? I was suprised as mine seems to be decompressed (flat 125 psi across all 6) and didnt like alot of timing.

I have some tomei cams in my GTR that i bought not long ago, put it on the dyno quickly and got 70 more kw out of it (yes they were set up that bad). Makes 240 rwkw at 14 psi (steel wheeled turbos but unsure what is actually done, ie bigger wheels) When you buy the tomei cams new do they come with a degree card to dial in the cams properly? If so does anyone have it so i can do it, if not if it just trial and error? Cheers

YES I KNOW THERE ARE SPELLING MISTAKES I WILL EDIT THIS LATER WHEN I HAVE TIME AND ALSO ADD PICTURES FROM THE MANUAL Hello everyone i have now recived 2 PM about owners wanting to know how to fix cv boots. I am by no means an expert but this is what I have done to fix them. TAKING THEM OUT FRONT LEFT On the R32 from going through the manual it seems the left can not be "pulled" out of the diff, there are 6 bolts that connect the CV to a long shaft that goes into the sump to the diff. undo these 6 bolts. Now on the steering hub (where wheel bolts to) there are TWO bolts that connect the lower ball joint to the hub. Undo these here as its a pain in the ass to get the ball joint out of the lower control arm, when they achive the same thing. Next you must undo the 35mm nut that is on the outer end of the CV drive shaft (there is a split pin etc that must be removed before you can unto this nut) FRONT RIGHT I have not done this my self but there isnt the 6 bolts to undo this side, it seems if you gently lever it out of the diff it will pop out. It is help in by a C clip inside the diff on the splines of the shaft. It should pop out if u use a block of wood and a lever. The rest is the same. REAR LEFT AND RIGHT Both pop out of the diff, the manual shows 2 screwdrivers being used as levers to get them out. Or alternativly they have the 6 bolts on each side so you can take these off how ever you want. There is also the 35mm nut but this is all straight foward. You will have to undo some of the suspension arms to have sufficient room to swing the cv shaft out. CLEANING AND DISSASSEMBLY FRONT Now the shaft is out you can clean/replace your boots. On the outer boot cut the 2 metal straps that hold the boot on and cut the boot off. With the cv shaft in a vice tap on the outer CV end away from the shaft, it will take a bit but it should pop off (also held in by a c clip) If the boot has just split (ie no crap in the grease) get the grease tube supplied with the cv boot and scweeze it in where the shaft was, this will push the old grease out, wipe the old grease off of the out side and replace in reverse order remembering to put the boot on the shaft before you put the cv back on. At this point if you need to do the LEFT FRONT INNER it isnt a cv as such its a sliding element with 3 bearings. BEFORE you put the outer cv back on the shaft if you push the shaft towards the centre of the car (i know its not in the car but its so you know the direction) a thin metal plate (PLUG on diagram) will pop out (when you look at it you will know what im on about) now you can slide the shaft out of the inner sliding element thing clean grease and replace the boot. Now put the outer back on. If you are doing the front left the sliding element will just pull out, rather where the left had to be pushed out the other way. Rear CVs are actual CVs inner and outer, with in inner being able to slide in and out. If the CV is full of crap like mine were you will have to dissasemble them and clean them. When you have knocked the cv off the shaft you are ready to begin. There is a a inner star with 6 balls, around this is a cage, and then the outer cv part its self. You will notice that there is 2 slots int he cage that are larger then the other 4. You can rotate the inner star around and remove the 4 balls from the smaller holes first, then the larger 2(this is from the manual to do in this order). Once these are out in you move the cage around you will see that you can actually remove it by aligning the larger holes with the outer cv and it will slide out, again onve the cage is out with the star still inside it moving the star so that it alignes witht he 2 larger holes (they are opposite each other) the star can be taken out of the cage. From here it can be degreased and reassembled in reverse order. You must rember the orientation everything goes, it would even be good to rember in which place the balls go just in case there is any uneven wear.

Whats the deal with those coolers, i see them advertised on ebay bolt into gtr but they clearly dont have enough monting points, when compared to say the chinese just jap one that has the 4 mounts? i would be interested if it bolts in, not so much if it doesnt.

I recently put in the full kit to my car, all i can say is the transformation it night and day. Turns so much better well worth the money. And general ride comfort is not effected.

i didnt know they stopped making that as the one he used was the smaller rb20 style one sor the SR, unfortunate tho.

iv had this discussion with a tailshaft guy before this are your options. get the old ones machined out and put in an aftermarket uni (shit quality has a grease nipple and will break with any decent power) or he will cut the end off, source the same spline or flange from say a commodore that have replacable unis that are OEM and are good quality. My friend went through this just a few months ago with his sr20det tailshaft.

sometimes its good to fix something then modify, but in most cases with hicas you dont want it anyway, so might as well just ditch it.

It does run a relay, its in the fuse box in the engine bay next to the AC relay

"pressed" is forging anyway, how do you think they forge parts, massive presses or drop forged.

cheers, any one else got input?

when i bought my gtr the comp test was 125 across all cylinders. had larger cams and forged pistons with metal head gasket, so i assumed the compression had been dropped a little.

hey I dont know if this video will help but im trying to find out if my timing belt is at the correct tension or its too tight. I dont want to have to retension it if its ok. A mechanic friend i know said its feels a little tight but isnt overly tight. Cheers for any help MOV01828.MPG

Not ideal? Have a look at the old toyota factory GTP cars they run them all off the housing, best way to do it. This is where you should put it so it doesnt obstruct flow, if you really want i can take a photo from corkey bell that shows it done exactly this way on the toyota race cars.

Im after the rubbers and strut top of a stock r32 gtr ( i think gtst is the same on the top) in Adelaide. I only need the one. Cheers

Hey interested in the strut braces, do you know the brand of them? also were they on a GTR or gtst I want them to fit a GTR so unsure if they are interchangable. Where are you located what will be cost to south australia?

at what 35 psi?

your rack ends are stuffed, same on my 32 gtr. you can buy from nissan for 160 each or uniqueautosports have them for 65 each new.

I was talking to a guy that makes tailshafts in Adealide. He was telling me the longer you make a shaft the less rpm you can spin it at, when you are at around 1.3 meters you will be lucky to get 5000 rpm out of it so thats why you go multiple peice. So it may not be that smart on going to a single peice shaft depending on RPM and length.

When i seen 110, the factory guage had not moved at all, i was reading it off the power fc handset, it was 41 degrees, in traffic with ac on full. I know idealy it shouldnt, but in most cars they do get quite hot. some Commodore thermo fans only turn on at like 98 degrees. My skyline stays quite cool below 90 with ac on in hot days, but i also have an oil cooler that helps a little.

why shouldnt it go up over 100, thats the whole reason its pressurised, so it doesnt boil. in a gtir i have seen 110 water temp with no detremental effects

ah yep i get it, do you know if gtr can use these, or the front cv's wont like it?

how do they work exactly?

I bought bilsteins off him, was quite good service. I payed for bushes about 3-4 weeks ago havent heared anything about them being shipped yet, i just think he is busy as i havent recived a PM back about them yet.