GTR1993

anyone?

How much of an angle? It should seal, the butterfly is not actually round, it is a very slight oval with machined edges at a slight angle so that when it is closed, it does not stick and can open easily. Also some of them have some type of weired wax pellet idel control i think, well mine had something weired on it for idel control, so that could be holding it open if it isnt fully closed.

Hi, when i turn the AC on in my R32 GTR the extra electric fan doesnt turn on, after some probing with the multimeter i found that there is 12V going into the relay, When ac turns on the switching 12V is there, but the problem is the ground wire isnt grounding to switch on the relay. If i ground this pin the fan starts. My question is, is the fan grounded through the ECU or through some pressure switch of the air con, so it only turns on when coolant temps is high etc? Or should it be on the whole time? Thanks

search for the thread by sydney kid, he out lines that with extended high rpm sessions like you were doing the oil will pool in the head, this could be exactly what was happening to you.

that IT is into the pod filter, not after the intercooler.

I was looking at those cheap chinese 8spots. I mean they are pretty damn cheap, but then i was considering the externder brackets with the 343x32 rotor with the stock calipers. Usually i avoid chinese stuff would be good to hear from anyone who has actually used them.

Sale fell through, still up for sale.

didnt get a PM man?

aight ill take it man, PM me your bank details and ill send you my shipping adress.

1 x set of new whiteline rear camber adjustable upper bushes for gtst KCA347 $80 hey, are these still in the packet if so how much shipped to adelaide ill take it.

they are not all the same, most of the new stuff uses one controller. I tried a GTiR AP engineering in my R32 GTR didnt work, there is a list on the japanese apexi site, do a search for power fc hand controller on performanceforums.com for sale section the link is in there.

That drawing is pro dude yea thats exactly how i was saying, but mine didnt show the high and low on at same time.

I dont think it will, ill try explaine. The wires that goto the H4 globe (mine are H4 i have read there are a few variations to the R32 head lights) there would be one ground pin, one +12V for low bean and one +12V for high beam. If you were to cut these wires you could use both +12v for low and high to turn on the relays, meaning that the lowbeam circuit that uses no relay will now only have a very minor current draw probably less then .5 amps. The high beam +12V will now also have a very small power draw, even though from the factory this uses a relay. So you can do 1 of 2 things, you can use a relay to turn on the new super duper relay you are using to power the high beams, or you could remove the factory relay, find the switching wire used for it, and use that to switch the new super duper relay on. hope that makes sense Cheers

I was thinking of keeping the relays as close to the headlights as i can, just so there is less wiring. Just for simplicity. I still need to check this, i have been installing a new deck and amp today, tommorrow i will have a look at the fuse box option. The 12v to power the lights them selves (to the relays) im going to take from the alternator (again i didnt explaine my self before, my battery is in the boot, so i cant take it directly off there) Only reason i said alternator is i found a web site that said you can do that. Failing that i will go off the back of the starter motor, this is where the fat cable from the battery goes anyway. If you have the battery in the engine bay take it from there, will be even close from a wiring perspective. I have also been told this so i might stay away from this. The relays should give the best power to the globes, with a good alignment should work well, hopefully. I cant quite rember now but i think there only around $8 or so, the packets didnt have a price as i got them ordered in. This could be wrong, but this was my understanding. The alternator has to have a pole where it charges the battery, if you connect to this, its the same as connecting to the battery as its all just 12V and should be a decent sized line (alternators can chage at say 80 amps so has to be a decent sized wire there?) Anyway as i said before just go from the starter motor, or the battery Cheers (ps spelling isn't my strong point ill try fix it up in a sec)

This is the one from GTR geoff that i didnt end up using, so it was 150 new, thats why im selling for 150 ONO.

Hi, I have a hicas lock bar for sale, brand new suit R32. Looking for $150 ono. Can post if required or pick up if your in Adelaide. cheers

I would do the lock bar, the problem is i fitted subframe bushes, SK bilsteins and hicas lock bar all at the same time, so its hard to tell what has done what, but its is much better now. I need a wheel alighment but you can really feel the difference when driven at some speed.

Hi, this is how I was going to do it, twin relays with dual outputs on each, either putting the relays next to the fuse box or behind the drivers side head light. I have 2 narva 40 amp relays, going to use large wiring (5-6mm) and probably 90/100W glabes. I was going to take the signal just from the drivers side head light plug when i cut it off, but now im thinking of taking out the stock wiring and running the new stuff in the factory tubing. Also thinking about removing the high beam relay and taking the signal wire for high beam off there. Also thinking about putting relays in the stock relay box. What ideas you got?

you can loop it there, but you will have to have a high pressure fitting made up for it, if you have a search there is a 8 page thread witht he info and pics you need on the last 2 or 3 pages, in the engine bay you need to loop one of the lines, it bypasses the rear completly and they are low pressure, so just normal hose is used.

To anyone that needs to know, the GTS4 ATTESSA(how ever u spell it) pumps are exactly the same, they work fine when used in a R32 GTR (i drive the car today works fine, bleeds the same) So if you need a new one for some reason generally the GTS4 one is a lot cheaper...

If the wiring is poor to the std globes there will be less then full voltage to them, there for they are not at bright. The r32 doesn't use a relay for low beam power goes through the switch, so this eventually renders the switch useless and has less then optimum power supply. Adding relays and a good power source just takes the load off the switch and gives the more power avalible to the globes. At the moment im putting relays in my R32, also might go to a higher wattage bulb as well to try get some extra brightness as they are quite poor.

I have been fixing parts on my R32 GTR to get it where i want it to be. I just completed dropping the subframe, installing the noltec rear subframe bushes, bilstein rear shocks and hicas lock bar, along with removing all the hicas stuff from under the car and engine bay, then installing the tomei interceptor to my hicas light doesnt stay on. Now for my question, im going to fix the front end of my car now, i need to replace the front shocks, machine discs and install new pads but when i was doing the hicas i noticed the front left cv boots are both split. I bought new CV boots from a local supplier (15 instad of nissans 70) but i need a quick run through of how to do them, i know i need a deep 36mm impact socket to undo the large nut. from there do i pull the cv out the front diff or not? Any help/tricks appreciated as im sure i can work it out but its always much quicker if u know exactly what to do. Thanks PS i done a search and didnt find anything to help.

are u talking about the rack because on the r33 they are electric but on the 32 they are hydraulic, so cant use the power source? EDIT understand what they were talking about now! makes sense.

I have read this thread, and also done a search and read quite a few threads. Im after some pads for spirited street driving, good when cold, good when pushed a bit. Its for a mildly modifyed R32 GTR. I was thinking Ferodo DS2500? Any input? Thanks

A hint for anyone taking out the old bushes, go get your self a die grinder and a real steel bit, not the gay grinding stone ones they couldnt cut something if your life depended on it. Hole saw out (also use a jig saw) the centre steel pin. Once that is out start from the top and start grinding away the rubber thats left and then grind through the steel casing, making sure you dont eat into the subframe. it doesnt take too long and then once you have gone from the top to the bottom use a cold chisel and a sledge hammer to knock the bush out. I tried the hack saw method, it works but is much harder.