SATO GTS

very very rich and rough idle some time's not able to idle.

yes i will certainly will try that ..

thats right the stock FPR is running at 50-65 psi . the fuel pressure gauge is brand new but again i will use a good known gauge to check aswell as checking the return to make sure its not blocked i will be installing a adjustable FPR to bring the pressure down to 40psi to see if i can get a correct idle mixture . is that high pressure to much for the larger nismo 555cc inj's to run at idle but ok with stock inj's? I trimed the injs back to 66% and tried 50% still to rich.

yes thanks will have to try that .

i recently ordered a expensive amount worth of gear from them with about 1.5 months of playing email tennis but once the goods where active through ems i received them in 4 days time and yes the ems tracking number does work and you can also track it the aust post through there EMS international tracking service which is alot more accurate. . so yes you have to have a very high patience level to deal with them because of the slow prcoess speed.

that is the question that i want a answer for . but no idea . I have a nismo adjustable reg on order to see it i can correct the base pressure .

recently tried to install some nismo 555cc inj's into a rb25 with a standard fuel pressure reg that was running about 50 pounds at idle with vacuum connected . with the vacuum disconnected it bumped up to 65 pound . the problem is the with the duty and latency correction carried out i was unable to get a stable 14.7:1 mixture at idle , but just free revving it was all good. carried out initialization of the power fc and started again the best mixture reading i was able to acheive was 12:1 which is just way to rich at idle. std inj's went back in and load std map and all was good . had the inj's flowed to check flow rate and pattern but the asnu inj machine was unable to supply enough fluid to get a correct reading but with the pressure it was at the inj's flowed exactually the same . we even cleaned two inj's and reflowed them but made no difference. I am starting to think that either there is to much fuel pressure at idle and the power fc cant correct the inj at that position and load of the map due to too muck pressure and flow or i have a faulty pfc. I have a peirburg (a german brand ) fuel pump . the inj's are the correct resistance and they are receiving the correct voltages . What base fuel pressure's have other ppl set this size inj up at?

thanks mate . some good tips in there too that may come in handy l8r .

if you are getting 3volts at the air flow meter for the Z32 you may have your 12v and signal wire the wrong way round.. i know from experience . should not do any damage to the pfc if not connected for too long.

use either a rb25 or 26 starter

is the plenum and throttle bodies and linkages still available ?? i have a friend who is interested and would like to know a price if available.. thanks kyle

The gears of the N1 oil pump are made from a harder grades metal then std , they also have a lesser amount of teeth on the oil pump drive gears allowing the pump to flow more and the backing plate has a 8 bolt pattern instead of the 7 , its also thicker . Not sure about if you are able to measure harmonics. I am sure there would be some expensive machine out there that would measure harmonics.

you will have no issues with the N1 if you bottom end is all balanced well with light weight good quality rods . i think all the talk about N1 smashing drives is because ppl put heavier aftermarket rod's in and try and rev them then the harmonics really start to happen and the weakest link is the oil pump gears.

make sure you DO NOT USE COOLANT when you are first running the engine. let it warm up and drive it and get it all up to operating condition b4 you put coolant in. if you use coolant , the coolant soaks between the head gasket block and head and as it will dry up and have sealing issues later on. other then that drive as normal.. After you have driven the car for about a week or so then you drain the water and replace with coolant . all will be good

i've had a rb25 in my 31 for over 7 years now and and in the middle of rebuilding it. it has had many track and spirited driving occassions with only running 12 pound boost . Change oil every 5000ks and used good quality oil. after stripping the engine and accessing the condition of the stock bearings i found that they were on the border line of going metal to metal. So i caught it b4 things could really get expensive to build. IMO freshen it up while its still in a serviceable condition .

if i could remove the drainback i would but it is lower in the gallery with only a very small wall thicknes that a screw will not bite to too remove it. if i leave it in and then put to new 1.5 mm restrictor in on top of it the valve it may close up on the restrictor and cause no oil to get into the head once it has oil pressure behind it. have pics of the difference's between the std and tomei restrictor i am starting to wish i never even pulled the restrictor out and just left it how nissan intended it to be .. tomei restrictor on the left and the 25 std restrictor on the right i also have drawings of what i am thinking about doing to overcome this problem.

Hello Gary sorry to question your experience but i am in the process of building a rb25 with forgies and hks cams so i was just wanting to make sure that no oil supply problems would occur.. ITS A RB25 WITH VCT . leave front feed , block middle and restrict rear feed .. Yes your reply make perfect sence and i do understand it .. I have a concern with the std restrictors that i pulled out of the block , i only removed the rear. The restrictor itself is of only a small orifice but its what is underneath the restrictor that i am having problems.. the restrictor is roughly 10mm long with a step down that has 3 hole in the bottom that angled into the bottom if it. Underneath that is a drian back valve or what looks like to be . Do you remove the drain back valve aswell or just the restrictor?? If i was to but the restrictor with the valve left in place then once oil pressure reaches the valve then the valve would be shut on the bottom side of the restrictor (tomei 1.5 restrictor) that i am installing and would not let any oil up to the head . i would draw a diagram but it a bit hard to manage.. I have never seen a restrictor like this before and i am very concerned. I would really like some info on this if possible please my mob is 0417224107. thankyou kyle

does the current price of $450 plus free delivery still stand for sau members? thankyou

true well i will install the restrictor into the rear feed and block of the middle one and leave the vct feed alone and see what happens

well i certainly do not know thats why i am asking these question's b4 i put the motor together .. i want to be 100% sure all is correct ..

i am using acl race pistons, bearings, mls kit and eagle h beam rods, when it's built and bedded in will let you know ..

in saying that guilt-toy if you install the non vct 25 head you block of the rear and feed the front but with the 25 vct head its opposite and both have hydraulic lifters.. thats is correct??

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get's the restrictor as per sydneykids table ??

RB26 valve Stem Seals will not fit a rb20 as the gtr valve has a larger diametre then the 20's and 25 . you can use RB25 Valve stem seals

May i ask the question with a rb25, why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get's the restrictor ??