SATO GTS

I think it has come time that someone need's to say that Newcastle is just a SH&T hole and there will never be any driving parks or facilities to accomodate the racing enthusiast. Going of past dealing's with necknock council and the motorplex plans, a driving park will never happen in newcastle no matter how many people are behind it. There probably is only 1 way to do it and that is to buy private land somewhere and build a dedicated " Driveway" with no consideration for the neighbours and noise complaints. HEHE. Look what happened to the doughnut pad up at the newcastle speedway went bye bye. Obviously the poeple of newcastle and outer region's do not want any thing of this nature to be any where near there city cause they will constantly be complaining of the nuisance that us driving enthusiast will be creating and that's is why all the majour track's are in sydney. Why am i so negitave??

As the WOR57 stated is the drive inside the cam engaging into the cas locater? Check for bad electrical contacts if you sad that when you remove the cas it triggers the inj's then it sound like bad conecction

my understanding is when going to a solid lifter from a hydraulic is that you will require new Valve's as they are an extra 5 mm longer to suit a solid conversion and take up the extra spacing or shim thickness required. I went through all this when i installed hks 256 deg in and 264 deg ex cams with upgraded valve springs. My lifters bleed out after a while when the engine is not running from the extra tension in the springs. I explained this to my engine builder who at the time has not done any upgrade's on a 25 b4. I was going to convert to solids to try and illiminate the proble but then engine was together and thats when i found out that you require different lenth valves to suit

Try going back to std injectors and making sure that the problem does not exist while in std trim. If it does then you know there is a issue there somewhere, if not then it is something that you have done to upset the engine. You havn't put the earth wire's onto the wrong inj's causing them to fire in the wrong sequence? You made sure your getting 12 volts at the inj's P.S no pic shown

Hey Guilt-toy Your first comment about your mate going out in a 31 with a 25pfc, that was me and anthony with his old boys autronic many years ago and yes i only had the hand controller back then. My god how times have changed using a laptop and datalogit software. I cant believe i have not viewed this thread earlier.

Well you could go stroked with a 26 crank and 26 rods and custom piston's to give you some extra stroke and do the usuall touch up to get it spinning smooth.

Swallow your pride and get a 30 bottom end if you want torque. After rebuilding a 25 with hks cams, piston's, rod's, balancing, porting, O/S valves and the usuall there is nothing better then a 25 or 26 head on a 30 bottom end if torque is what you after. I sort of thinking that I should've built a 30 bottom end up instead. Don't get me wrong, mine is nice to drive but the extra capacity from the 30 does not do a built 25 justice. mmm sweet torque.

go and get a air flow meter plug of a vl or a r31 skyline . same config

First thing is first check for any vacuum/boost leaks and the usuall as everybody has stated. If you are using a after market ecu it may require a tune as you have changed the induction . Just like when you install a new larger turbo . If you where running std crossover intake pipe and went to the side mount plenum you are changing all you volicity and dynamics of how the engine receives it air. You are going from a long runner setup to a short runner set up. I may be wrong but it's just a thought..

Thats very interesting to know . Is it only the fc's that croydon have tuned or does this happening when with every fc that has been locked? How is croydon able to lock it and then when the fc is accessed by another datalogit or axcel software it get's reset to initated setting?

Where do we get'em from?? Awesome.

12:1 to 12.5:1 on the road is a ok tune but if on track then need to be alot richer as heat takes over and cause issues as Strik3r mentioned

What even better is that it's up and running and if fatz can NOT be drunk for 1 night he might actually come up to shit'sville(newcastle) and drive the thing home next weekend. WOOHOO and take all the associated junk with him. hehe

MMM that looks positive fatz chop chop boy hope fully is exactually what we require

tune it your self and save a shit load of cash with just as good result. depending on how you want it tuned, at least 3 to 4 hours on the road get your self a autronic air fuel meter or a tech edge and go for it

dont forget valve stem seals. if it is a high mileage engine they will be well and truly knacked

the lifters where soaked in oil the hole time the engine was apart for roughly 3 months . the engine has been running for about 4 months now and still the same. yes the price of new lifters is way to much atm . the engine originally done some very high k's

hey all after having my 25 rebuilt and with the intention of installing hks 256/8.8 mm in let and 264/9mm exhaust cam my engine builder instructed me to install 90 pound spring to help with high boost and valve float when larger turbo will be installed so i thought ok go for it. the problem that i am having now is that after a while when the motor has not been run on initial start up the hydraulic lifters are noisy. engine has been run in and being driven every day with good quality oil. has any one else experienced this problem b4? are there any other causes that would be making this problem evident?

my meter is in the car constant and can be removed for tuning other vehicles when needed . have not been able to test it against other brand of meters as there aren't many different types in newy to test against . mainly autronic .

wbo2 all good never had any problems and yes good customer support . had mine for 2 years and always runs faultless.

would have to have a look at cam gears to remember

well after checking my neutral switch and the way my car behaves i realised that the neutral switch is playing up and causing my vct to operate when in neutral . fc hand controller came in handy to tell me if the switch was working and only in some positions was it registering .. now have to find out why is does not work. i quess that having done 200'000 kms plus its well and truly worn out.

so if the vct is working when in neutral i take it there is a problem so where else in the system?? i will have to do some more investigating on my 25 then.

really depends on your usage . street use then 14.7:1 - 15:1 cruise and 12.5 :1 for full throttle if using on track then 11.5:1 - 11:1 for full throttle . if its too lean at 12.5:1 on the track under full throttle conditions than you will produce to much heat and cause undue pinging and under bonnet temp will be significally higher. (known from experience ) but yes you are on the ball park with the ratios that you where given

if you are using the arp 2000 studs then use the recommened torque settings that arp supply with the stud kits aswell with the special lube supplied.