R.I.P.S NZ

Ah, I thought you ment Mark, Yeah Reece has run 7.57 in Aussie but I'm not sure if he was still 26 or not. We have run very close to Reeces quickest NZ time so thats good enough for me in what is basicly a back 1/2 street car. Rob

Whats Marks best time and mph now? any idea of the weight and whp of his car? I'd love to get on a decent Aussie track, Reece is very sure we'd drop 2-3 10ths and gain 5-10mph on your FAR superior strips. Rob

Any updates from the VL or skyline boys? Rob

1. RIPS ET: 7.89. MPH 176mph. 60ft 1.28. TYRES: MT Drag. NOS, yes. C16. I think thats layed out right? Rob

Lol, yeah thats Joes GTR, runs mid to low 10s and on that run I gave him a good head start so I could wind the old turbo up for a nice wheelie, lol. Joes been around in that car for a long time and its bloody quick for a full weight streeter, he's a top bloke too. I remember after one race we had about a year ago, he came up to me and said in a joking way said he was pissed off and going home casue he'd never been passed by someone who was on the back wheels before, lol, it was real funny at the time.

600kg minimum for the next class we'll have the motor in (but it'll probably be around 750kg all up) and then 765kg minimum for the class we intend to run after that or if we go back to Pro Import 1060kg. The 240z is a street car (missing headlights, wipers and a muffler, it has a 6 point street cage, glass, full dash etc, its short, it has a high COG and it has done more than I ever thought it could do, its time to get the motor into something purpose built. Rob

1277.5kg, minimum weight for the class is 1060kg, if we could have got 217kg out and geared it to suit theoreticly it would have been around 7.4 @ 185mph Rob

Thanks mate, I really apreciate your comments. Here's a link to another vid just done by NZ Performance car TV:

Lol, your RTs were a bit slow there mate, they've been up for almost a day........ Rob

I want to get into something lighter, its about 200kg over weight for the Pro Import class I run in but I don't want to strip it out to be a full race car, as it is, it still has glass windows (except doors), steel hatch etc, just needs headlights and wipers back in and its road legal again for someone else. Rob

Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago. Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails? Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place. Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it. Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas, Rob

Its not a skyline but its about teh same weight as a well stripped out skyline and everything else is suited to this thread. RB30/26, TH400, reverse pattern, transbrake, 5500 stall 1100+whp Best 60ft 1.25 0-100kph in 1.7 sec 1/4 mile 8.05 @ 172.39 mph with previous tune restricted by small injectors. Rob

Good one Dave, I presume all the gear I sent over arrived safely? Rob

Ok, so how do you know every block is going to have its center main faces in exactly the same place relative to the outer perimiter rail bolt holes you are using to spigot the cradle? Rob

So when the block is line bored you have to also machine the sides of the center cap on the cradle to exactly match the sides of the center main in the block? Rob

RIPS RB30/26 streetable engine Stock RIPS prepped 2wd block, no filler or braces, fully water cooled. Stock RIPS prepped crank RIPS 2wd wet sump, tomei oil pump RIPS RB26 head, brand new with tomei parts RIPS inlet plenim with 90mm TB RIPS custom exhaust manifold GT45 turbo Twin turbosmart 50mm progates 75hp NOS kit 1100whp @ 9000rpm, 2 bar on C16, 8.05 @ 172.3mph Rob

Cool, what is the actual cc rating with the 86.5mm bore? Rob

Someone has had there thinking cap on, I wondered how long it would take for that to pop up. Rob

The 3.4 should be very interesting, did you stick with 86.5mm bore and what style/shape of rod did you chose? I presume you've made it so its a drop in kit for a stock block? Rob

I presume from your reply you havn't actually had a complete setup together yet. Welding the holes and re-drilling or "bashing" in some alloy plugs and re-drilling I believe will still not sort out the problem. There are many many more hurdles you'll come across along the way, it took me quite some time to iron them out one by one so everything is now perfect and every niggly thing has been addressed. Best of luck, Rob

Slot the wings with a 10mm plate? You sure? If so what fastners do you use and can you get all 4 in? Rob

How do you bolt up the 4 rear lower sump bolts to the bellhousing when using a 10mm thick plate? Rob

Thanks for the kind words on the fuel systems etc but you have your wires seriously crossed with regards to the adapter plates and billet mains kit, might pay to go back a few posts and have another read. Rob