R.I.P.S NZ

I tell you what!! I'd say your about right :-) Rob

Lol, how the hell did you know that?? Rob

Great peek whp result, I can't imagine what that would be like in 2wd with it as laggy as it is then having so much come in so quick, I can't see that car having alot of traction! lol. If that engine was in a GTR what whp in 4wd do you think it would make around about? I have a graph here of 850awhp at 7500rpm in 4wd at 1.9 bar on 98 pump gas done with a GT42 but it comes in sooner and less agressivley, be interested to compare results based on what you thihk that motor would have made in 4wd, do you have any numbers at 1.9 bar? and how much is "a touch over 2 bar"?. Be interesting to see what it would do on the strip with some decent tyres too. Rob

I import them from the states, I havn't found anythind decent in NZ

We usually run 4 inch from the turbo and even with our last car which made 720awkw (970whp) in a street R34 it was fine, it was what most would call a little loud but not to bad or droany on the open road at all, it had a small single Borla race muffler at the very rear only. Our 240z street car also had a full street 4inch system with a borla muffler and we ran 8.7 in full street trim, it was a bit loud but we don't really have to many problems with cops and loud cars here. Personally I'd go 4inch from the start and never have to worry about it. Rob

www.ripsracing.com in the products section there's pix of a few of our plenims. There will always be alot of differening information and opinions but if you stick with a plenim that has proven itself to be good in the application your going to use it for thats a safe option. Most people in the lower hp range usually change for the looks and simplicity of plumbing and maintainence. We've run 8.7 @ 162mph with just 2 bar of boost in a street car on street tyres and unless we are being REALLY fussy fuel trims between cylinders is not neccessary and when we do trim its only the tinyest amounts. Rob

If your interested we do high capacity 2wd drift/drag/track sumps for RB25 or RB26 with baffles, surge tank and breather tubes etc, nzd750+shipping so it would be about au700-720 delivered depending on exchange rate. We use them on drift, track and drag cars and we've never had a run bearing. Rob

Its nzd1100 for a GTR plenim, 6 pack, throttle linkages and a RB25 base modified to take it all if we supply everything. If you want to send me the lower 1/2 of your plenim deduct nzd200. Its not a 5 minute job to do it nicely and there's a fair bit of welding and porting involved. We've done a few of them and they seem to respond really well. I suppose it comes down to the look your after as much as anything but I suppose theoreticly you'd get slightly better response from the 6 pack with GTR plenim but not alot of difference up top. Rob

I have a stock RB26 plenim and throttle bodies available for nzd450. Rob

Ive done a 10.2 @ 134mph in a street GTS4 through a totally stock unmodified RB20 cast exhaust manifold with a T3/T4 hybrid turbo and power was around 450awkw Video's are on youtube under R.I.P.S GTS4 Rob

Yes we do quite a few RB30 repowers for nz customers although quite a large % of our work is for overseas customers. NZ has a forum skylinesdownunder and the 25/30 and 26/30s are very popular here. I have never had a warranty claim and we have a 100% success rate with no failiers of any customer motor ever so its never been an issue. If we supply a bottom end or a motor we really have no control over how it could be installed, setup, tuned or driven/treated so there are too many variables to be able to say you have a warranty as such but I will stand behind my workmanship no problem at all. I'm happy to help within reason if a customer buys a bottom end only. Rob

You'll get alot of conflicting information and alot of the "you can't to this and that" or "don't do this and that" comes from guys who havn't actually pushed motors very far at all. 11mm head studs are fine, we have been to over 900whp with them, done hours and hours on the road and dyno and raced all season getting down to 8.7 @ 162mph with 11mm head studs, a stock 2wd block, stock crank (revved to 9000rpm) stock cradle, stock used mains bolts and no block filler or block braces at all. Sift through all the information and you'll soon find out what is realistic from guys who have actually done it and what is not so true usually from guys who havn't. Rob

Don't be too hasty, here's a street GTS4 with totally stock internal RB30 bottom end with a totally stock RB25 N/A head with stock N/A cams and springs etc, stock RB20 cast exhaust manifold, stock gearbox, stock suspension, DOT tyres running 10.2 @ 134. We had to DETUNE it to stop breaking boxes, I'm damn sure with a good box it would have run 9s so it is "possible" its just not many people would go down that route cause even if you did do it, no-one would believe it anyway, lol. Rob

Amen to that, The bottom end is an air pump, thats it, its what you add to it and how you tune it that will give the results, then you have to put it in a suitable car with suitable running gear and drive the bloody thing right to get good results. I had one "respected tuner" from the UK publicly complain that his car hadn't majicly turned into a 9 second monster when he blew his 600hp RB26 and fitted one of my RB30 bottom ends and did no other changes what so ever, go figure!! Whahhh haha Rob

Here's a couple of vids showing a pretty basic combination in a full weight R34 on 19inch wheels on a normal road, 0-130mph in 10 seconds: This car has one of our normal forged 4wd bottom ends, a good head with tomei cams and a TO4z This shows the response and torque from quite low rpm: Here it is driving at about 1300rpm in 6th to show how smooth it is, then going into 1st: I've had some guys come for rides who said they'd been in some pretty hot 26 powered GTRs, as in 700-750hp, and they've all agreed this car would eat them for breakfast. I feel the reason for this is due to the fact that although these 26 cars may have had 700-750hp peek on a dyno sheet they don't have the torque and response we can get from a well setup 30. I had one car come here that made about 700whp and the owner could only run 14s at the drags due to the lack of torque and massive lag between gears, if you nailed it at 3-4000rpm in 4th almost nothing happened at all for a very long time so IMHO a peek power figure is not anywhere near as important as some people think, there's alot more to it. Rob

That plenim will suit a R32 body and its to suit a R33 type RB25 head, I presume thats what you have. I have plenty of pix of them in 32s, if you want to see them e-mail me [email protected] I havn't done back to back testing from stock with no other changes but we've had real good results with these plenims and all the drift guys with them comment on the response etc. I have done a 8.7 @ 162 in a street car and one motor we did recently made 620whp at 1 bar on 98 pump and 960whp at 2 bar with C16 with the same trumpet design and a slightly bigger plenim body so there is no question they are fine for performance as well. Rob

I don't know who you are or what you seem to have against me and your entitled to your opinion and your entitled to spend your money where ever you like but please get your facts straight if your going to post, its all pretty clear on the website. If you'd actually take a step back and take the time to learn some basic maths you'd realise that the mph we have done in cars V the weight of the car perfectly matches the dyno figures we have published so how can they be all rubbish? You can't get 1350kg to run 162mph (in street trim and on street tyres) without at least 950whp so I don't think its unrealistic to say its making about 1100bhp? care to comment on that? And if the Blue 34, on the same dyno, made even more whp in 4wd mode than we measured with the 8.7 car in 2wd would it not be safe to assume that the engine might in fact be making a bit more than 1100hp? Alot of people try for years to get a GTR alot lighter than the blue R34 into the 9s and I managed a 9.7 on its 1st ever pass which was a total f^#k up so I was actually pretty happy with that result for a 1740kg car. HT need to have around 1250-1300whp to run 190mph if their car weighs about 1100kg so I'd say they'd be WAY over the 1200hp you say they are making. I wish you all the luck in the world with your goal of a 9 second GTR and when you get your motor off the stand and into the car and if you run a 9 on your very 1st pass I'll be the first to come and shake your hand, if I knew who you were of course. Rob

Check my website www.ripsracing.com in the products section, there's some pix there of a few of our plenims. I have one of our latest R33 RB25 plenim kits in stock, its the type we use on all our street and drift motors and we've had very good results. I can ship within hours of payment and the full kit with plenim, new billet 80mm throttle body, cable, fittings and gasket I'll do for nzd1300incl shipping. Look here for pix of the actual kit and other things we've made recently, http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/104094-r-i-p-s-...abrication.html Rob

Here's a few things we've made recently: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/104094-r-i-p-s-...abrication.html

Yeah aussie road rules are pretty bad in some places I've heard. When on the street we usually take off the wheelie bars and parachute but although I've been pulled over many times by the cops they only want a look at the car usually, I've never had a warning or a ticket. Rob

Yep, the mods are done to the oil system and the belt tensioner is relocated. A twin cam head will bolt straight on but the R33 RB25 head needs the usual mods first. Rob

True, the RB30s we usually do have stock blocks, stock cranks, stock cradles etc so 9000 is plenty I think, lol. Besides that, by 8500rpm we are usually making more power than a similar spec 26 doing 9500-10,000 and I'd rather keep the rpm as low as required to get the job done. Rob

The engine has done a full season, hours and hours on the dyno, a fair bit on the street and I pulled the pants off it recently to check it and I'm not even going to change the bearings, they are like new. We run 2 bar and 9000rpm at the strip to get 162mph. The car has full interior, full exhaust system with muffler, full steel body, all glass, dot street tyres etc. It idles nice at 1000rpm, its smooth as silk to drive, doesn't get hot and is pretty good on gas on the open road (as long as you don't nail it, lol) A 1200hp engine we just fitted to a R34 GTR was also very nice on the street, would pull nice from 1200rpm, make plenty of boost by 3500rpm and be hauling by 4500 to 9000rpm. It made 620whp at all 4 with 1 bar of boost and 98 pump gas. It made about 750whp at all 4 on 98 pump gas at 1.7 bar with a very safe tune and 1000whp on C16 at 2 bar. It weighed 1740kg and on its first ever run at the strip (which I made a bit of a mess of) it ran a 9.7. Rob

Interesting, my forkift RB30 motor runs 8.7 in a street car on street tyres and revs HIGHER than one of your local RB26 GTRs that has just ran 7.8s, go figure?? As far as a 26 being able to rev faster than a RB30 thats not true either unless your talking about in Neutral, in the real world the engine can only gain revs as quickly as the car is accellerating (unless you have wheelspin or clutch slip) so a RB30 making 700hp would actually rev faster than a 700hp RB26 due to the broader spread of torque. Rob

Stock internal REBUILT RB30 with alot of time spent, modifications, new parts, all assembled ready to go. What a load of rubbish, if you can supply me fully forged shortblocks built to the same standard as I do for nzd3500 I'll have 20 a month please. Whats your account number I'd like to get started on these please. Have you run 8.7 @162mph in a street car on street tyres with one of your forged bottom ends? I'd bet you probably havn't done an 11. Your not comparing apples with apples, not even close. Rob