moobaque

I have a power extreme 2 aswell and i think the noise level is quite resonable.. i certainly hear everyone elses aftermarkets exhausts louder than mine. As for how well it flows. I have replaced the dump pipe with a 3" split as well as a higher flowing cat and from a stock engine increased my power by around 20-25rwkw (afer exhaust installed dynoed at 185rwkw, and i believe a standard gtst is about 160 at the wheels) having a catback can certainly change the note and noise level but isnt going to increase performance to much if its choked as it leaves the turbo & wastegate

Yeah, i dont know / havent found what actaully causes the relay to cease power to the motor. Now my window has stopped working all together you can hear the relays still clicking away and u can just hear the motor attempting to move but i think my first issue has caused my motor to burn out..... ive taken some photos to show the different configuration my car seems to have in regards to relay location below is my door with the trim removed (note the lack of black relay box everyone else seems to have) And these images show what the back of my switch box looks like

Hey dude, can't give you anywhere specific as im in melbourne but you should find any motorsport prep workshop will do this for you.

So... the scenario is much like most other peoples i have found from the searches i've done. But specifically this is what my car is doing. The drivers side window when i hit the down (auto) button it goes down as it should and stops. When i hit the up button its goes up but when it hits the top the motor appears to keep going and makes the most god awful noise.. its really loud! by tapping the down direction it cuts the power to the motor and all is peachy once more. I then pulled my door apart expecting to find a little black box mounted houseing the relay as was explanned in many other posts. But in my car (a '95 S1 GTSt) there was nutin. It would appear on my car that the relays are all mounted together within the window control buttons casing. i then removed the cover from under the switches to find two small PCB's and from what i can see all the solder joints looks perfectly intacked and still very shiney (not dry). Anyone got an idea on what the issue is? Also if i do need to get a new switches / relays does anyone have the type i'm talking about (no seperate relay)? Cheers Camden

Sweeet As! Where abouts are you located dude? I'm around the Camberwell area of Melbourne if thats anywhere near you? Also where did you purchase them from coz i might need some more in the future? Cheers Camden

Hey all, I have a greddy twin a-pillar guage mount that for ages have only had one defi link guage in. I have recently purchased another guage but the supplied link cables are just a couple centermeters to short to reach between both guages. Im trying to find if anyone in melbourne sells the type of little plastic connector defi used. Ive been to dicksmith, jaycar and radio parts and they dont sell them. Ive also looked through the RS Components catalogue and cant find it either. it looks basically like a pretty standard connector u find on many electronic circuit boards... (pics added) Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Camden

thanks for the resposes peeps. Ive called CAMS and they were meant to send it to me in that package... hopefully by next race meet the car will be ready to put on the track cheers

Hey all, My package arrived in the mail from cams the other day following my applications for a L2S license. this package contained a cover letter, letter about the online motorsport manual, the paper motorsport manual and 2 stickers (one with my personal details and one listing the expiry and licence level) When i read the cover letter it talks about because this is my first time having a license, the license sticker would be already stuck into my passbook...But there is no passbook in this package? Should it have come with all this stuff or do i have to collect it from cams / at next race meet? Just a little confused Cheers

thats why you dont buy from nissan! although this is only helpful if you have an r33 but NTK make a direct o2 sensor replacement that costs $92 from Burson Automotive

Hey all, although ive been a member of this website for a while i am still a bit of newbie to the vic club. Trying to be free to come along and finally meet some of you guys and gals! Cam

more than full time sound engineer, soon to start freelancing me thinks

Just remembered a 3rd thing that i had an issue with. where the dump pipe meets the cat there is a bracket that comes from the floor and uses the two bolts that hold the front pipe and cat together. the fact that i was installing slightly bigger piping than the stock wasnt really too much of an issue but the size of the welds on the flange meant that the bracket wouldnt pull up flush enough. so i ended up grinding the bracket prolly 6mm bigger all around, which still wasnt a perfect fit but it at least made the two holes where the bolts go though to pull up nice and flush keeping the seal tight between the cat and dump.

I too installed the split dump form batmbl today but had no issues with bolts lining up or an air con line but im getting the feeling that the wastegate pipe was prolly on the other side once upon a time but the design has been changed. Anyhoo two things i noticed on install today is that the o2 sensor position was much lower than the original dump and my stock o2 sensor cable was to short to reach. This didnt really effect me as i had a nice new NTK sensor ($92 from burson automotive) which has about 6 or 7cm more length. The second thing i discovered was that the flange at the turbo end wasnt as thick as the stock item. What this caused was the heat shield bracket to be out of place. There are two options here. You either use washes to make the bracket move further away and back into allignment, or do as i did and just file the heatshields current holes a bit wider so the screws lined up again.

If you purchase the nismo dash cluster you can just plug it in and its all calibrated. They also look fkn sweat when ya turn the head lights on

I guess its more so what i should be buying coz there are so many options but most of them say they are gasket replacements...not necessarily to be used in conjunction with gaskets. or there is the exhaust cement that the dude mentions in the dump pipe tutorial? i picked up a gasket from nissan today (from back of the turbo to dump pipe) and it has no goo on it but nissan recon thats all ya need to seal..?

Im still not quite sure what i should do about this whole gasket situation after speaking to a few companies Sumo performance say they always use some sort of gasket goo RE Customs say sometimes, depends on the type of gasket.. wat eva that means and Brighton Nissan say just use the gasket on its own.... oh and has chasers motoworks changed its number coz the number i called says its disconnected

Hey budy, my '95 GTS-t S1 does exactly the same thing at about 3400rpm. For me it was physically the tacho, not any wiring. I have a brand new nismo cluster and no worries. But you dont need to spend much money to get yours working, there are plently of instrument repair companies around, or source yourself a second hand cluster.

Thanks for the responses peeps! So is repco the easiest place to go for this stuff? and do i need to be putting it at every join or is it just the high pressure at the turbo? Does anyone know any brands/names aswell or should my friendly repco staff member know what i'm talking about Cheers

Hey all, Ive purchased myself a turbo back exhaust system for my r33 and so ive been doing a little reading to get my self prepared for the install. I just read the the diy section tutorial about installing a split dump pipe off the turbo and the author leads you to believe that whether you use a new or reuse and old gasket you need to use some sort of sealant (exhaust goo/cement). I just need some clarity because i thought if your using a new gasket, that is what makes the seal between eg. the turbo and the dump.. and exhaust goos are for when ur gasket is broken or not using a gasket at all? Cheers Cam

Hey all, Sometime ago i posted about who to contact to get a brand new clusters odometer set to my cars current odometer figure before installation. The result was so far is that its going to cost about $100 with a stat dec. To try and save myself some money is it possible to spin up the odometer myself? i can only assume the cluster is getting a voltage/frequency from the ecu, so would it be possible to hook a freq gen up to it? Sooner i get this done the better! I want to install this cluster asap Thanks! Cam

Hey all, I have a S1 R33 and the tacho is farked. I'm leaning towards putting in another complete dash cluster rather than replacing the tacho only. Im tempted to import one of the nismo clusters although will prolly just end up with a second hand gtst cluster. But how do i / where do i go about getting the odometers matched? Although the current odometer reading is prolly bs in my '95 car i dont want it reading 0ks either Thanks Cam

So are you telling me that every single person ive ever seen with an aftermarket intercooler and pod is driving illegally, or is it that easy to get an engineers certificate?

ok i pretty much answers my own question with my last post with these two links VicRoads Standards Information Australian Design Rules Although i still do have question to do with intake systems. I have read else where on this formum that in melbourne you can only get away with one intake mod so either a pod filter or an aftermarket intercooler for example, but not both. But over these documents i didnt see anything about the intake side of an engine (except for installing a bigger turbo). I have put a pod on the car and will prolly put a fmic after the turbo back exhaust gets installed.