moobaque

It starts up fine now.. and doesn't stall anymore, sorta. On letting the revs drop back towards idle it still goes to far, the car then kinda stuggles for second and then kick back to the correct idle position. And yes the Power fc isnt going to protect its self etc like the stock computer. But something is causing the maps to be wrong and its running really friggin rich.. the whole back of my car is getting covered in black shite. Will def be back for a tune when i get free second (DAMN YOU WORK!) Cheers Camden

Well i attacked the AFM and its connector with some contact cleaner yesterday and it seems to have made a difference. car doesn't stall anymore and in general drives fine but sometimes when coming down in revs it still drops a little low to then bounce back up to where it should idle at. I've also noticed the car seems to be running quite rich as there is a lot of black splatter all over the arse of my car.

Yeah mate i did see that thread about the aac. Thinking i might give that a burl tonight as well as just giving my afm a clean out with some contact cleaner. Only thing im a bit unsure about is doing the whole idle point reset as im not using the stock ecu anymore (power fc) Cheers Camden

as in its just dirty or u recon it might need replacing? is there a method of testing the afm? i don't really want to go out and buy one to find its not the problem.

sure don't and never will

Hey all, As many of you prolly know from my other current thread i've just installed a fmic on my r33. My problem is to with my cars idling. I have done some searching through the forum about the whole need to retune thing and i would have to say the overwhelming majority say that there is no point in a retune if its simply just the fmic upgraded and nothing else (eg. no increase of boost) So having said that why would my car run rough when it idles straight after start up? Then if I go for a drive the car performs perfectly fine until u let the revs drop completely (like when u come to stop). The revs just continue to drop beyond the idle point and the car stalls!? My car would randomly do this maybe once every couple weeks before the install so i just figured my aac valve failed occasionally. but now its non stop the car wont idle after being on higher revs. So at the end of all this what do people think is wrong. could it be that during the many days my cars been off the road the aac valve has become stuck closed. could it be an air leak in the new piping for the fmic (but i would have thought this would cause problems all the way through the rev range like not hitting previous boost levels due to pressure loss) or potentially does my power fc need some tlc at the tuners? any help would be much appreciated as i want to be able to drive my car asap. (currently i'm getting around in a early 90's volvo and every time people see me in it a die a little inside ) Cheers Camden

DBA's are generally a better rotor, but at the end of the day its relative to what you want to pay. I use Endless CCX pads which are most likely what your friend is using too. I do track days with those pads and standards nissan discs (i keep them in on the street too) and they are lasting out fine....so that might tell you something about RDA.

Hey all, Haven't really done anymore on the car due to having to go to work (lame) but i did just give it a bit of a spin late last night as i was passing the workshop on my way home. firstly i must say its amazing the difference it made with the nice coolish air we had last night. I would also put aside anyone who says the turn pipe design is bad for air flow coz my boost is coming way harder and faster than with ye old stocker. The only problem i have run into atm is that my idle has gone to shit. The car initially starts up fine and seems to idle relatively smoothly. but if your coming off revs (eg have just chucked the car out of gear to come to a stop) the revs will just drop completely and stall) Now this could be one of two things. 1. My AAC valve is completely jammed up with crap (this was happening every so often before i did the upgrade) 2. Or because im using an aftermarked ECU (power fc) the idle programming just may need to be tweaked. To solve this problem im going to both clean my aac valve when i get the chance as well as send it back RE customs way to have a little dyno run and tune once over. I guess there could also be a 3rd issue that may come into play and that's a leak in the system somewhere but i'm confident all the piping is air tight! Shall post up some more updates when i get some free time again!

I think i put my two cents in about nengun further back in the thread and i have no problem with em at all. Thats who i purchased mine through. You just cant beat there prices to be honest (even when the exchange rate goes to shit its still cheaper than buying off a local dealer). You will have to generally wait 2-4 weeks for something to arrive. But i'm ok with that since i paid over $600 less than getting it off an authorized aussie dealer like autobarn. But yeah feel free to PM me about it.

You certainly can in Victoria and so i would recon you could in nsw. Just call whom eva looks after registration in your state (like our vicroads) and they'll tell you the answer straight up.

I've got all the plastic left over from the centre section i cut out that they can use to fill up the holes ive created. Going to have the whole bar resprayed anyway coz as u can see in the pics its pretty knocked around in general (bought the car like that) I think the previous owner had hit a few to many gutters.

I did goto nissan cambewell yesterday who were as unhelpful as last time i went there (they really arn't interested in helping people with imports) nissan brighton on the otherhand have been more than helpful in the past sourcing me many little bits and pieces, just havent had time to drop past there yet. I also dropped into a repairer near where im working on my car in collingwood called LA. They were a great help and said they normally would have that style of clip but just didnt have any left. They suppied me with a similar style of clip in mean time.

I removed mine a while back. i spent hours fluffing around till i finally worked out how to do it. I think the end result was quite simple. its really not that many screws once u get the trim off. But i can also remember it being helpful to have a second person to hold the glass so it doesnt go tumbling to the ground once u remove the motor from the mechanism. i think we then chocked it with some wood inside the door. once u have it out i also have a memory of jaming something like a screw driver through part of the removed motor/mech as part of it is under high tension and will chop ya fingers off if ur not careful.

Like Al said, i am wanting to do this for practical reasons. I would agree a bare cooler does look mean. But i want to protect my $1000 investment without killing to much airflow.

hahah yeah i bent my horns back too but it fitted in fine before i did that. i've been having grief finding someone who will plastic weld up my side sections. A few smash repair places are of the opinion japanese vehicles have inferior plastic and it cant be done!?! i know its no BWM M3 but....get your hand of it other companies i have called have never really done what i am asking and really cant give me any indication of how much it will cost. I may be missing what exactly it takes to plastic weld but i just cant see it being that hard... except u do require to have the correct element for the specific plastic i do understand that... how much did urs cost? understandably mine may cost a little more as its a place that will be seen but any idea of a ball park figure?

Hey all, I've just done a bit of a trial fit of the bar today. Currently i still haven't modded a reo so its not on the car in this test fit. My bar is being held on by the 2 original screws either side of the bar and cable ties in the middle to where the grill normally goes. So far it lining up pretty damn well but i do still need to trim some more plastic away from the fake driving lights as they are pushing into the very edges of the cooler. Also see the gaping holes ive created from removing the middle section of my bar. Im planning on getting those plastic welded up to look schmik. Al on this forum has done just that and it looks a million dollars! What is also very awesome is that the cross pipe sits higher than the bottom of the front bar! Ive seen on many photos of series 2 installs u can quite clearly see the pipe hanging under the bar. but it sits beautifully tucked away. hopefully the front bar will cop most the impact if u do hit a gutter/driveway etc. also note my awesome temporary number plate rigging. not sure at the end of the day where/how im going to mount it. But i really wanted to give the car a kick around the block. (will also go and purchase a slimline plate so its no so chunky) if i get time before work ill start putting up some other photos of how i got to this point Cheers Camden

Having an aftermarket front bar would make all the deference on an s1.. otherwise behind the bar they are almost identical between s1 and s2 (with the exception of reo design). I don't think there are many bars out there that compliment the s1 very well unless u change the whole kit so i'm quite keen to mod my original. I could be wrong but i also recon its heaps easier trimming a plastic bumper than a fibreglass one. I haven't had to modify anything else in the car to make the cooler fit (not sure why some people say they had to relocate there horns too?!?) but i have chosen to cut a section of my reo so that i have a bigger opening for the cooler. but i don't have to do that to make it fit. I'm not familiar with the Tommy Kaira front bar, but like almost every aftermarket front bar im sure it has a relatively large cooler opening already meaning the reo would have already been modded to suit it properly. Im kind of curious about this bar tho? could you post up a pic of your car? Cheers Camden

Hey all, Am in the process of modifying my series 1 m-spec front bar to have a much bigger opening as well as to fit around a newly installed intercooler. What im looking to do is put some mesh in the hole to try and protect the intercooler from stones but not to kill to much air flow.. (have already searched about places for this mesh and i think im on top of it) My most pressing issue in this project is how people have neatly attached the mesh into the front bars. Pics would be the ultimate but any response would be much appreciated thanks! Camden