moobaque

Live Sound Engineer

I bought my S1.5 R33 off carizma about 18months ago now and am quite happy. Car is straight (never been in any serious crash) interior and exterior was in great nick and got it for a fantastic price. But i knew it was stock that had been in there showroom for sometime so had a bit more leverage on the whole negotiation front. lol in reference KODE to the stickered km's not matching your ODO. Sounds like every grey import that comes into the country. My cluster said that the car had done 65k but the service sticker on the window reads 117k! just got to make sure you check over the cars for tell tail signs of there real age. Cheers Camden

I believe the S1.5 has the S2 turbo in it. But as far as i'm aware it doesnt really matter if you have the nylon or ceramic they will both fall apart once boost is increased to 12 or more PSI. Its kind of the luck of the draw. I'm personally running 12PSI on a 95 S1.5 (spikes out to 1 bar sometimes as im using a bleed valve not a boost controller as such) and have been for some months with no issues.

I don't know what state your in but the Australian importer of recaro is a company called ideal seat co. They are located in Moorabin, Vic (http://www.idealseat.com.au/) Check out there website for other authorized recaro dealers. cheers Camden

im down for this. currently live in east hawthorn but moving to bulleen soon. but best of all like cars and beer!!!

NGK make an o2 sensor specifically for the R33 so they may make one for the R34 (if they are not identical anyway). I bought mine from bursons cheaper than I could find listed on this forum. Cheers Camden

yeah, but in Canberra don't the AFP act as your local police also?

Definitely worth checking that it was legit. Does sound a little fishy.. as i'm sure your feeling right now, probably would have been worth requesting to see a badge. In regards to your boot being look through, i always thought that when your pulled over by the police your not to get out of your vehicle unless requested by the officer. I then found out after working with a former highway patrol officer that your quite within your rights to get out of the vehicle and observe anything that they carry out.

i have i think 30% on the sides and 20% on the back. looks great IMHO.

On my silver 33 i've gone with black calipers and sanded back the nissan letters to the expose the metal again. i think this looks the best on a silver car.

S1 and S2 clusters are exactly the same. As i think has already been posted the 33 gtr cluster or even the nismo cluster will plug straight into a gtst

+1 for the PE II its not stupidly loud and doesn't have a drone to it!

I have to say that it puts things in a very scary perspective considering most of us Vic people for example who do sprint days at Sandown with NO ROPS and in many cases people are using a street seat & belts would be hitting 200+ down the back straight with a concrete wall not that far off your drivers door... we would potentially fair a whole lot worse... Not going to stop me from doing it but certainly makes me question not having a cage that's for sure. RIP Ashley

I guess it could be one of many points down the signal chain that could have possibly set your airbag off. I don't know where the sensors are located in a GTR but certainly on my 33 gtst (drivers side only) the sensor has no protection from being hit by debris and i guess if the 13 year old plastic has lost some strength anything solid being flicked at it could potentially create the short required. could also be heat somewhere that has caused the signal wires shield to melt and complete the circuit, or even just liquid to allow a short which once again could be quite possible in the position the sensor is located on my 33.

are u for real?!! are you doing a lot of freeway driving? wish i got that fuel economy *looks in empty wallet*

In the past I definitely would deactivate my airbag. But i use a race seat and harness in my street car for track events pretty much making the airbag useless and if it did deploy would probably cause me to have a bigger accident than would have if i could see where i was going/able to hold the steering wheel. if people are still using a street seat and inertia reel seat belt... im still kind of in two minds whats that way to go...

Does sound like your AFM has either bit the dust or like i think has already been mentioned, has a leak causing incorrect metering to the ecu Testing with someone elses known working AFM is going to be a great test but you could also simply try taking off your AFM and giving it a good once over with some CRC Contact Cleaner! I had similar mods before i put a boost controller in and i was getting 185rwkw (exhaust, pod, fmic, but tuned with a power fc) i would assume this was due to the turbo back exhaust, but my stock solenoid was now running my car at 9-10psi. i've got my old dyno sheet somewhere on my floor no doubt

I can't give you any great ideas at this stage but i'm looking to do exactly the same thing. I'll let you know if I have a break through Cheers Camden

with my situation (which sounds pretty much the same as yours) the tacho would work perfectly for maybe the first 10-15mins of driving. Then for me if it hit i think about 3500rpm it would almost hold for a second then shoot all of the fkn shop. then once i got past 4500 it would start working correctly again. I really couldn't see this being a loose connection because for me it was a precise point every time. if for instance it happened at a different point on the tacho or sometimes you could go a whole days driving without the issue then maybe i would be considering that path. im possibly thinking maybe a dry or dirty joint, perhaps only occurring when a certain frequency or voltage struggles to pass. Does anyone know what kind of signal the tacho is taking (voltage and/or frequency change)?

as far as i'm aware the australian version has simply been re-valved with some softer springs. Everything jap-spec is generally a pretty rough ride. Cheers Camden

Eucalyptus oil is the go for cleaning glue and the like of delicate surfaces. Could also even simple use some isopropyl alcohol (normally used as a pre-injection sterilizer) Cheers Camden

Had exactly the same issue mate, Its definitely the tacho itself, not the signal to it. I put in a test cluster borrowed off a workshop and fixed the issue. I have since bought a new cluster and everything is peachy. There are automotive gauge repair companies who could no doubt repair your current cluster or you could try and find one second hand? Now that you have made me think about this again... I still have my old dodgy cluster that i might pull apart at some stage and see if I can find the exact issue. Cheers Camden

Hi-larious! go flame thread go!!!!

lol definitely not a standard dash light as for your speedo issue i really cant help but there are plenty of companies who specialize in automotive gauge repair. I can't for the life of me remember the company I went to a couple years ago... but they were conveniently located opposite a VDO warehouse.

If hes doing that kind of cornering and high revs on the street his car should be crushed and his license taken away for life... having said that i highly doubt this person was.. this is my point. unless hes on the track a think upgrading a sump is a waste of time.