bubba

The major difference between the cams (aside from durations and lift) is that the 26 cams are profiled for solid lifters and as such have different ramp rates to the cams meant for hydraulic lifter heads.

It's not IMPOSSIBLE, but it's bloody hard. I was having boost issues in the Stag, was very low and inconsistent around the 5-7psi range, even swapping my R32 actuator in didn't help, turned out the cat had collapsed and was blocked, causing the drop in boost. Bashed it out, got 10psi back (actuator pressure) and then dialed it back up to 15psi. I also don't buy the "exhaust gives you 2psi" shit, pressure is pressure, just because you have a more free flowing exhaust doesn't make the actuator give you an extra 2psi. It may get there faster due to better flow which might make it briefly spike over whatever your actuator pressure is, but it's not going to hold it to redline.

Please let me know via PM what you find out

Oh very nice

Nah mate, the team is kind of falling apart, I just resigned last night. Played the TK tourny yesterday guesting for Syth and the fun I had there kind of cemented the deal. Now I'm a Gun4Hire until I sort out my own team

The Haltech came with my Stagea (which will be getting Nistuned soon so VCT and the auto work properly) so I have a bit of flexability there and I guess a couple of extra 044's and a surge tank would be the go when it comes E85 time. Cheers for the advice!

Perverting the course of justice anyone? The better way to approach it would be to either have a flash sensing unit (like they use in photography) to trigger an LCD film over your number plate to black out.* Or, a flash sensing unit to set off your own flash in an attempt to over expose the image.* *I do not advocate the use of any of these measures.

Yeah petrol for now, only looking for 500rwhp but later down the track (after I have put some more pumping power into the fuel system) I was thinking about E85 for track days. Just wasn't sure whether it was a timing restriction or something that limited you to 800cc.. My setup is: RB30DET (R32 RB25DE head) Stock DE cams GT35R (0.82 exh) 6boob mani 50mm progate 1000cc Rochester inj. Stock rail and reg (hopefully) 1x 044 in tank z32 afm (for now, until it maxes) Will Nistune be able to run this setup nicely? Basically trying to decide whether to sell my Haltech and Nistune it, or keep the Haltech. It's my track toy so the Haltech has some nice features (rotational idle would be cool) but they're not really needed, could sell it and utilise the money elsewhere.. Cheers for the help!

Yeah they're low impedence and I'm aware of needing resistors but was just flicking through the Nistune website and it mentioned 800cc's being about the limit..

Question: will Nistune be able to run my 1000cc Rochester injectors? Cheers in advance

33 resevoirs are a lot smaller than 32 ones, that's what a mate has used in his 32 and what I will be using as well as mounting it forward and just under my ARC airbox (heaps more room under there than a stock airbox).

I don't get it 'cause mine's fkn excellent!

+1

No, I don't think so. He said Rohans' GTR made 240awhp while everyone elses numbers were hammered.. implying that Rohans' figure wasn't low while everyone elses was. Yes it was hot, and yes certain ECU's were pulling a lot of timing (my Haltech for example, I was down nearly 100hp), but I really fail to see what that comment had to do with anything.

Whistler Pro78. And yeah, that's what I was getting at above in regards to the jammers.. it's not like you drive around spewing waves out for all to detect.

Even my Stag pulled 222awhp on that day only running 12psi.. what's your point?

Should be able to get somewhere around 240awkw on 1bar and if you can drive, maybe a high 12 down the quarter?

Ferodo Motorsport. Normal Ferodo dealers can't get them.

They have a better oil pump drive compared to early 26's and really, as long as you maintain it well and have a good tune, it should live a reasonably long life.

Our highway patrol cars here run K-band radar equipment, on a nice road I'll get nearly 1km warning! No need for a radar jammer if you have a good detector. Good laser jammers only transmit when they pick up the incoming beam and even then only transmit for a very short time, basically to allow you to grab some anchors before their unit tries for another reading.

TBH dude, I would put the money you would spend on a new oil pump towards the rebuild fund and just cross the busted oil pump bridge when you get to it. Replacing an oil pump isn't cheap if you have to get someone else to do it, better off to save for the (inevitable) rebuild.

I could probably get more warning but I had just crested the rise over the bridge, if I come across another one with a stretch of flat road preceding it, I'll report back how much warning I get

I run DS2500 pads on the front of my 32 (with 324mm rotors) and I've found them to be a really good street/track pad (not cheap though), they are a step down from the full blown race pads and as such work better at lower temps.

Got my Nismo from Nengun but that was a couple of years ago.

Do you get mothers clutching their babies when you drive through carparks? lol But yes, if you buy an aftermarket LSD, you just get the centre (my Nismo 2-way actually came with new halfshaft flanges, crown wheel bolts, gasket and some Nismo oil). Because I was changing ratios when I put mine in, I sourced an S13 auto complete diff (in housing) and dropped that off along with my new centre to my diff guy. I then swapped the housing myself up at the workshop (so I still have my stock 4.3:1 geared diff/housing at home if needed in the future).