bubba

I'm keen, something nice and long.. day trip down south?? Oh and make sure you all have CB's (I have a couple of handhelds I can lend out)

P.S. I've bought from Powerflow before, no complaints other than the injectors plugs I paid an extra premium for, were actually second handies cut from a couple of looms they must have had laying around.

I don't think the guy in the link I posted just squeezed it on to get through the lights.. 70km/h over the limit.. that tops my official best of 55km/h over!

http://www.perthnow.com.au/news/western-au...u-1225874502608

Try these guys.. http://www.powerflowperformance.com.au

Not sure at 8000rpm.. I'm going to suck it and see how they go. That's pretty overkill.. the 3L+T04Z I mentioned earlier is only running 1x 044 intank. I asked my tuner a while ago whether I should run a surge tank and he said don't bother, they mounted an 044 nice and low in the tank for me and assured me that it would do the job as that's how they run all their drift cars. It went from surging if under half a tank when throwing 'nuts, to being able to whip 'nuts with no surging under 1/4 of a tank. I'm only shooting for 500rwhp but I've got 1000cc injectors so IF we ever get E85 over here, I should only need to upgrade the pump setup.

wow!

You shouldn't be, but I am with the lack of vidz of skidz

I doubt they have changed the way the redlight cameras go off, if you cross the line while the light is RED, you get done. I feel sorry for whoever slams up the back of me when I grab the anchors to stop for a late amber light instead of squeezing the gas a bit.

Chris, you can't compare your turbo to a real GT35R. Have a look at Titans' GT35R'd 3L, that's what should be happening and mine should be pretty well the same

If you want some fancy gismo that shows engine parameter readouts, build yourself a bloody carpc. Hook a consult cable up, run Datascan and voila. You can also use it to control your entertainment system, GPS, intrawebz etc etc etc. That would give you much more cred than some stupid brand name "infometer". Pfft.

As for that 260RS.. they cost a lot but you are getting a GTR in a wagon body (including the extra weight lol). I can't justify that sort of coin straight up on a car.. you could get a stock S2 RS4-V, put some nice suspension in it, a fmic and a hiflow turbo and come out with a LOT of change from the purchase price of that 260RS. I'm all about bang-for-buck.. hehe

Personally, being a daily, I wanted the auto and the RB26 engined Stags (the 260RS's) are all manual. Knowing what I'm like with the 32 (clutch-stab happy lol) I didn't want to get a big heavy 4wd car and put more power through it as it would eat clutches for breakfast unless I drove it a lot nicer than the 32.. but where's the fun in that?! The Rb25 Neo is a nice engine and has a lot of potential, it just needs a bigger turbo. Whereas with the the RB26, the stock turbos should be able to make you nearly 350rwhp. Horses for courses really, if you have a toy and this is just a daily, go the auto S2. If it's a compromise with the mrs so you can still have a fast family car because she won't let you have a toy, get a 260RS. As far as buying with mods, that's completely up to you. If the mods are done well (the mods to my car were all done by a reputatable tuning shop over here at the previous owners expense) then there's nothing wrong with that. The main reason I bought one with all the mods done was that I already had a toy car and it was coming off the road to do more stuff to it, hence wanted a complete turnkey daily package

Intake studs locations are different, 25 ports are bigger (same shape but bigger, I think 25DET ports are also slightly bigger than 25DE IIRC). Top half of the plenums are not the same between 20 and 25.. the RB20 has the rear two runners staggered closer to the engine whereas the RB25 has all runners in line. Exhaust side is the same across all RB20/25's.

My 32 gtst has never left me stranded (came close a couple of times.. snapped the clutch pivot once and another time split a heater hose) but being 20yo, you're going to have to expect that things are going to start needing replacing. I think the major costs that *could* be involved would be replacing all bushes/wearing suspension components.. if the engine dies then a 2nd hand RB20 isn't very much but replacing all the bushes etc can be very labour/time intensive.

Since when did the Nismo come with thicker stub axles? Mine just came with standard replacements (2 of the same length instead of the standard 1 short 1 long).

Yeah unfortunately with the new location of the sender, there is excess cable Mine also does big funky loops with cable ties holding it to the fuel lines.

You go solids for mega lift and high rpm.

*cough* carpc+datascan *cough*

iFail

mods kept removing them

Personally, I wouldn't bother wasting money building an RB20 up because at the end of the day it's still going to be an RB20 with a shit flowing head (they flow about as much as an RB30E head). Either drop a stock RB25 in there (way better base to start with than an RB20) or build a real engine

If you get cams to suit hydraulic lifters, and then do a solid lifter conversion, it will run like crap as the ramp rates (time for starting to open to full open, vice versa for closed) are different for hydraulic and solid lifters. I think you only need solids if revving high as the hydraulics get to a point where they can no longer pump up in time before the next cycle.

Security cameras with motion detection/recording/notification aren't very expensive or difficult to set up...